I'm sure this question has been asked before, but here goes.

I'm trying to paint lines and shapes for camo that are splatter free and have not had much luck. I have a Paasche single action and I'm using both Model Masters Enamels and Tamiya with their brand thinners at about 50/50 or 2/3 thinner and 1/3 paint. I clean my airbrush religiously so I don't think its that. And yet, very much to my frustration, I still get these splattering around the edges of shapes and lines.

Can it be the aircompressor? I don't have a regulator on it but its going at about 10psi. I'm wondering just how vital the regulator is?

I've tried holding the brush various ranges to no avail. So basically, I could use any help. Thanks in advance. Also, I've read through the FAQ in this forum and while its been helpful can anyone recommend a detailed website on airbrushing help?

Sounds like you are using a Paasche H which is a good air brush. Lines take a lot of practice. Which tip size are you using? The #3 is a good one for most hobby paints however, having said that, the #1 might do better for use with your thinned paints and doing fine lines. I have a H and can get decent lines, without splatter, using 10-12 psi. With highly thinned paint you can shoot at really low pressures. You want to get in as close as possible with the air brush tip and this also can reduce splatter. See if you can shoot lines when you are 1 inch or so from the subject. Try spraying at about 45 degrees to the subject. Finally, grab an old plastic milk jug and practice, practice and more practice until you like what you have going.

I don't know what pattern of camo you are trying however I have had luck using an index card. Get some index cards and cut out the shape of the camo pattern you want. Hold the card about 1/4 inch off the model and spray the edge of the card. The card will block the spatter and some paint will fog under the cards edge giving a nicely blended edge if done right. The next thing you could try is the silly putty method.Spray a base color then place silly putty over the areas to remain the base color. Spray your next camo color. Peel off the silly putty and there will be a soft edge between the two colors. Greg

Ah...some good advice. How vital is a regulator to control pressure? And what's the lowest recommended pressure?

I'm having trouble with the jargon about tips. I bought my brush second hand and didn't have much on which tip is which. I know there's a "bigger" tip and a very small tip. What are the different types do?

Sorry to sound so clueless.

Hi,

i am not an expert but I just wanna tell about my experience:

I have always painted with enamels and sometimes I had splatter problems, when I changed to Tamiy acrylics no splattering occured anymore.

Pressure control is vital, I would say spray you enamels and around 2 bar/30PSI or less. Acrylics can be sprayed around 1 bar/15 PSI or slightly less. Don't be afraid to thin your paint very much, it should be like milk. Spray with a mix of much air and litlle paint. When little drops of paint are flowing of your model when spraying you have thinned it too much or you have kept your airbrush too long on the same postion.

Regards,

Matthijs

I use acrylics and under normal use I work at about 20 psi. When I need to do fine line work I thin the paint, use my smallest tip, drop the pressure to about 10 psi, and work about an inch from the surface of the model. A regulator is important along with a moisture trap. Greg

For any kind of control you really need a regulator. Always adjust the pressure based on what it is showing when the trigger is depressed on the pen.

OK, great advice from all.

I just ordered a regulator so maybe it will help.

I guessI also need to start keeping my brush alot closer to the kit.

Last question, has anyone tried spraying Model Testors Matt/Flat Laquor? Can that stuff be sprayed?

I tried spraying a generic flat finish and it actually made it semi-gloss. Not good.

Thanks in advance.

Hi there,

Yup, tried the test dullcote and it worked beautifully!

Cheers!

Here is a bit of advice for you on painting without spatters. On occasion, when I airbrush something very fine, I will actually mix enamel paint like model master with "acetone". You can buy a small can of the stuff reasonably cheap at Home Depot or such, and it goes a long way. What is good about Acetone is that the paint dries seconds after contact, sometimes even sooner as it evaporates almost immediately after it is atomized. I had used this trick previously when painting motorcycles (real ones), when the temperature is not ideal or is too humid. It always works great for me, however, as one poster suggested, try it on a milk carton first because painting with acetone has differant characteristics then painting with thinners. good luck!

Thanks for all the advice.