hi everybody started the old hobby again recently and purchased a badger 200 airbrush i can do full coverage spraying but i'm very nervous on how to go about camouflage painting just about to spray a german half track and my palms are already sweating :_ | any advice would be very welcome

practice on something OTHER then your model Paint the box, a milk jug, card stock, SOMETHING other then the current project.

there are two threads from just a day or so ago in this forum section 'first paint job' and 'ways to paint camo', check em out. There are probably over 100 threads if you search a bit. There wont be too much forum traffic tonight. You are probably going to be much better off with a hard mask with tape, paper templates, or silly putty then doing it freehand. Most camo on tanks had a sharp edge from painting with brushes, brooms, mops rather then a spray gun with a scale 1 1/2' soft 'edge' anyway. Freehanding your first camo job will be too stressfull, a small mistake like stopping mid-stroke and putting a nice dripping blob on the turret will have you in fits. PRACTICE!

thanks a lot for that i,m just throwing 2 pints of milk down my neck then i'll start practicing i might try paper templates that sounds a good idea when i actually spray the model . thanks again

The silly putty works pretty well too I think there is a feature if you search for it.


here it is :

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/689

or u can buy a super fine airbrush it paint like a .5 mm width line

i want to know will 2mm width line be ok for painting camo
'
i was think about buying the tamiya airbrush with air compressor

Junior,
It depends on type of camo you want to make and if the brush is single or double action. Im not too sure on the qualtiy of the Tamyia brush, I would shop around a little online and at your LHS for more insight.

most that claim .5 mm line is for spraying something incredibly thin like inks at sub 10psi pressure. 2mm is probably fine if your speed and control of the pen saturates the edge just enough to properly simulate a fine soft edge. Some vehicles had much softer wider edges on the real one as well. A very fine soft edge(like a lot of modern german armor) that is little more from tiny amounts of overspray from templates is better done hard masked at 1/35 scale. If the soft edge in reality is only 2" there is no way you can replicate it freehand.

hi ! i've just blown my budget on my badger 200 and can't afford a compressor at the moment (well i can but x box 360's keep comming into my head) but it say's it should spray 1.6 mm lines but my experience so far is no where near that i think it's a case of practice practice practice

get the Xbox 360 and Dead Rising I can't get enough of that game

i know i know i can see the compressor fading into the distance
ah well theres always next year but then theres call of duty 3! decisions desions

The one poster had excellent thought, try on practice model, but several times,

Personally I would get the compressor as its much cheaper then an XB360. Just find a buddy who already has one you can hang out with

true mate i've also got to sort out the shed so i can get a proper table and lighting in there i'm struggling with camo on my models but my mower as got brilliant camo from all the overspray from my past efforts :-)

I have an old ESCI F-15 in 1/72 that the fuselage halves on the sprues each have about 6 camo jobs, 4 washes, and every color Mig pigment you can imagine

I had never seen this link before until last night. Pretty good stuff though for the videos on painting the BF109.

http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop.htm

Check a local flee market for a compressor, I lucked out for one in great condition for a very low price. One mans junk another mans treasure. :-)

cheers thats a good idea i think spare time is goin to be on hold for a bit ,became a dad last night ,but she's worth it!