Do you normally use FLAT black or FLAT brown or just black and brown? Do you find that the flat is just too "flat?"

you are probably better off with oils rather then enamels(they are all gloss)

Check out this video for the basics:

http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video9bg_1.htm

And the more expensive oils and thinners are worth the extra few bucks for how long it lasts. The pigments are much smaller on better oil paints then cheap ones.

for darker colored vehicles a good choice is burnt umber with black. Use more black for very concentrated areas like panel lines and more burnt umber for a moregeneral wash.

However, other colors can be very useful in washes for various effects.

definately go with high quality oils, such as Winsor&Newton.


Sean

Like Kevin, i too would try using artist oils instead as they tend to give a better effect.

Try reading this article that Fred wrote.

Wash Techniques

Thanks for the replies. I did use an oil wash many years ago and it took forever to dry, allowing dust to settle and get trapped in the panel lines.

I just used an enamel wash yesterday and was overcome by the thinner fumes, so I switched back to acrylics. I have to get some odorless thinner... :-)

its not that odorless Try artists white spirits from the art store. In a pinch, the better quality mineral spirit from a LHS in my oppinion is MM airbrush thinner. Not quite as strong as the brush cleaner types.

I suspect you used turpentine for your oil wash. Don't use turpentine as it indeed takes forever to dry, plus the odor. A better product would one called Turpenoid. I believe there are 2 kinds available. buy the one in the blue bottle. This is odorless and dries quickly. Avoid the one in the green bottle, I think its called natural turpenoid.

You could also buy high quality Mineral spirits. these dry quick and work well with oils. They have odor, but it isn't that bad as long as you open a window.

Sean

This is an interesting topic. What about if your vehicle is a basic olive drab color. What colors would be preferable for a wash?

Hi Charles! A 'wash' is a technique of weathering,a process to mimic exposure to natural or enviromental elements.With that said,any colors that resemble dirt,sand,mud,and dust would work.Throw in a smatter of grease and fuel tints and you pretty much are on your way.
Cheers!

I thought it was to bring out the details of a vehicle, like the bolts etc????

Actually you can do both. Though most people now appear to get the fading from shading. Washes are great for dirt and fuel streaks. they are also great for popping out detail. It all depends on the color used, dilution of color and technique (practice).


Sean

Did this last night. Various shades with the airbrush of green drab and lighter mixes adding OD on the last one. Originally primed with black(which I could of skipped with the green drab being so dark). Wash is lamp black with a little medium grey. I went back after this photo with raw umber in a very thin wash to 'pre-stain' small areas I intend to do a little mig rust pigment on. I only do spot washes and not the entire model(unless is something like a wheel hub).

I hope your nose isn't anything like mine, because odorless thinner (turpenoid) tore me up. Sinuses and throat burning, sneezing my head off, major sinus drainage, bad stuff. Can anyone recommend other thinners for oils to try?

well, stuff at home depot is never the quality of artist thinners. Try misterart.com and look for odorless thinners, such Gamblin Gamsol odorless mineral spirits... Misterart has just about every artist supply inexpsensive with super-fast shipping.

Naptha can be used but is pretty dangerous-low ignition point,very flammable.It evaporates pretty quick too.I only use it occasionally for spot or pin washes.
Ventilate your area and then vent some more!
cheers!

Thanks Kevin. That's exactly what I wanted to know. BTW, great built and use of the wash. Thanks. again.