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Dioramas: Techniques
Diorama techniques and related subjects.
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Unpainted wood effects
long_tom
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Illinois, United States
Joined: March 18, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 06:47 AM UTC
How do you properly paint wood in 1/35 scale, in tool handles, furniture, wood frames, etc.? I'm talking both light and dark colors, and stained wood as well. Thanks.
koenele
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Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: January 17, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 04:52 PM UTC
i got this technique that COCA told me...

Well it quite simple, first painted the wooden tools with any sand or light brown color either in acrylic or enamel paint. Next mix 50-50 of raw umber and burnt sienna oil paints, use a good quality of paint brush, apply the mix on the wooden tools, wait for about 30 mins to an hour, use a dry clean brush very slowly and lightly in motion to "clean" away the oil paint and you will get what you want.

don't thank me, but coca...

hope it helps

koen
Bigskip
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 05:36 PM UTC
I saw a similar technique described on aeroscale, but using a base of acrylics and then using dark brown poster paint over the top - leave for 30 mins then 'take off' poster paint with a damp brush.
Andy
AndyD
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 06:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

i got this technique that COCA told me...

Well it quite simple, first painted the wooden tools with any sand or light brown color either in acrylic or enamel paint. Next mix 50-50 of raw umber and burnt sienna oil paints, use a good quality of paint brush, apply the mix on the wooden tools, wait for about 30 mins to an hour, use a dry clean brush very slowly and lightly in motion to "clean" away the oil paint and you will get what you want.

don't thank me, but coca...

hope it helps

koen


Koen doesn't lie.

Try it - it works. A wash of red leather Vajello over them can give that wood glow.
CReading
#001
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California, United States
Joined: February 09, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 06:26 PM UTC
I use basically the same method:
Base coat (airbrush for a smooth finish) with acrylic... tan, wood,sand, whatever color you perfer.
When the base is dry, use oil paint; raw umber or sienna or a combination. Again depending on what you are going for.
Let dry for a while
(Heres where it slightly differs)
I use an old brush that has short stubby bristles and gently drag it over the surface, removing the majority of the oil paint but leaving the "grain" as it were. This can be very subtle or very obvious depending on how much pressure you apply to the brush.

Cheers,
Charles
jimb
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New York, United States
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 06:34 PM UTC
Will these techniques give you the grey look of untreated wood that's been in the "elements" for a while? Like say a fence, or crates, or scrap wood?

Jim
KellyZak
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 07:21 PM UTC
I've tried the techniques suggested above and wow, what a difference my tools have made! A friend also suggested once you have done that, and the oils are dry, go back and add the faintest bit of black to the areas that would get used eg a axe handle, add a bit to the base and near the top where the blade is to signify where the hands would be, if you look at a handle that's been used you'll notice the darker areas where it's been held.
CReading
#001
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 05:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Will these techniques give you the grey look of untreated wood that's been in the "elements" for a while? Like say a fence, or crates, or scrap wood?

Jim


If you use a grey tones as a base color and maybe a paynes grey oil as the 'grain' color. I would weather the finished piece with light colored grey pastel powders also.

C.
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