click here
Comments and criticism welcome!
And my Allied shelf on my display cabinet is almost full!
Hosted by Darren Baker
Irzyk's M4A3E8 Sherman done!
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 01:38 PM UTC
Here's my recently built M4A3E8 Sherman. This is also my entry for the Tank Aces campaign. Hope you like it!
click here
Comments and criticism welcome!
And my Allied shelf on my display cabinet is almost full!
click here
Comments and criticism welcome!
And my Allied shelf on my display cabinet is almost full!
Bigskip
Joined: June 27, 2006
KitMaker: 2,487 posts
Armorama: 357 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 03:04 PM UTC
Ralph.
Thats a nice looking sherman. I'm not a rivet counter so can't comment on any accuracy issues - but it's a nice build, with subtle weathering. LOVE the display cabinet!!
Andy
Thats a nice looking sherman. I'm not a rivet counter so can't comment on any accuracy issues - but it's a nice build, with subtle weathering. LOVE the display cabinet!!
Andy
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 03:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ralph.
Thats a nice looking sherman. I'm not a rivet counter so can't comment on any accuracy issues - but it's a nice build, with subtle weathering. LOVE the display cabinet!!
Andy
Thank you thank you comrade! Much appreciated!
Plasticbattle
#003
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 03:25 PM UTC
Hi Ralph. Another very nicely built model. Love the decals and how they turned out ... are the stars and "painted-over serial numbers" faded by you or is this their natural colour? I really like this effect. The HVSS and wider tracks look very cool on a Sherman. The only thing that this model lacks is some personal gear or signs of life.
I dont know if its the light source, but it appears that the weathering is applied over the base green colour on both the wheels and the tracks. There is none of their natural colour showing through. With only green and red-brown on show, IMO it looses some effect. The picture below may show what I mean
orCLICK HERE if direct linking is not allowed.
I dont know if its the light source, but it appears that the weathering is applied over the base green colour on both the wheels and the tracks. There is none of their natural colour showing through. With only green and red-brown on show, IMO it looses some effect. The picture below may show what I mean
orCLICK HERE if direct linking is not allowed.
ericadeane
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:09 PM UTC
Looks nice! Overall weathering looks good. Maybe go over the raised chevrons of the tracks with a pencil graphite?
A few other things:
1) Maybe check your references but I think you have the rear unit decals on backwards. The usual practice was to have the unit on the left and the "HQ-1" on the right, like you have on the front. It would have been the same order on the rear normally. Maybe Irzyk's tank was different?
2) One of the mistakes of the DML kit was not removing the oval plates on the top of the engine deck corners. For future reference, know that the later M4A3 hulls did not have them (this was a leftover from DML's M4A2 kit)
3) finally, on the tail lights, only the top left oval lens was red. The others were all black.
HTH, keep up the great work!
A few other things:
1) Maybe check your references but I think you have the rear unit decals on backwards. The usual practice was to have the unit on the left and the "HQ-1" on the right, like you have on the front. It would have been the same order on the rear normally. Maybe Irzyk's tank was different?
2) One of the mistakes of the DML kit was not removing the oval plates on the top of the engine deck corners. For future reference, know that the later M4A3 hulls did not have them (this was a leftover from DML's M4A2 kit)
3) finally, on the tail lights, only the top left oval lens was red. The others were all black.
HTH, keep up the great work!
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:23 PM UTC
Hi Plasticbattle!
Hmm... I think I overdone the weathering :-) :-) I applied the weathering first on the tracks. At first, it seems like the tracks were more weathered than the upper structure. So I grabbed my pastels and dirtied the top, only to find out that I had put too much. Any suggestions to tone this down?
As for the stars, I guess it's an illusion. You see, the kit decals were printed in grey. Also, the tank ain't in olive drab, but rather a mixture of flat green and khaki drab ( I ran out of OD so I used these instead
). The dark shade of khaki drab made the stars look faded.
Hmm... I think I overdone the weathering :-) :-) I applied the weathering first on the tracks. At first, it seems like the tracks were more weathered than the upper structure. So I grabbed my pastels and dirtied the top, only to find out that I had put too much. Any suggestions to tone this down?
As for the stars, I guess it's an illusion. You see, the kit decals were printed in grey. Also, the tank ain't in olive drab, but rather a mixture of flat green and khaki drab ( I ran out of OD so I used these instead
). The dark shade of khaki drab made the stars look faded. shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Looks nice! Overall weathering looks good. Maybe go over the raised chevrons of the tracks with a pencil graphite?
Will do comrade.
Quoted Text
A few other things:
1) Maybe check your references but I think you have the rear unit decals on backwards. The usual practice was to have the unit on the left and the "HQ-1" on the right, like you have on the front. It would have been the same order on the rear normally. Maybe Irzyk's tank was different?
I was surprised too. The instruction said it that way.
Quoted Text
2) One of the mistakes of the DML kit was not removing the oval plates on the top of the engine deck corners. For future reference, know that the later M4A3 hulls did not have them (this was a leftover from DML's M4A2 kit)
Yes, I remember seeing you post this over some other guy who was also making Irzyk's Sherman. Too bad for me, I had placed many kit parts (such as the hooks and the pioneer tools), so I just left it alone.
Quoted Text
3) finally, on the tail lights, only the top left oval lens was red. The others were all black.
I painted the tail lights on the inside following your advice on the red/black lights (whoops, I painted the lower light red and the top black
) Check the rear shot.Thanks for the comments! Much appreciated.
TankSGT
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:00 PM UTC
The tank looks very good over all. The weathering on the tracks isn't too over done. Will the pastels rub or wash off or dry brushing with other colors may tone it down if desired. The 50 cal MG is on the mount backwards. the angle of the pivot should be toward the back of the gun.
like this-----/---I =grip end
not------I if that makes any sense.
One last item the Dragon tracks are a b*tch to get right, I built the M26A1
but the left side has a lot of slack and the sprockets don't engage the end connectors. I built mine on the sprocket. It may be to late to fix though. Over all it is a very well done kit though. keep up the good work.
Tom
like this-----/---I =grip end
not------I if that makes any sense.
One last item the Dragon tracks are a b*tch to get right, I built the M26A1
but the left side has a lot of slack and the sprockets don't engage the end connectors. I built mine on the sprocket. It may be to late to fix though. Over all it is a very well done kit though. keep up the good work.
Tom
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The tank looks very good over all. The weathering on the tracks isn't too over done. Will the pastels rub or wash off or dry brushing with other colors may tone it down if desired. The 50 cal MG is on the mount backwards. the angle of the pivot should be toward the back of the gun.
like this-----/---I =grip end
not------I if that makes any sense.
One last item the Dragon tracks are a b*tch to get right, I built the M26A1
but the left side has a lot of slack and the sprockets don't engage the end connectors. I built mine on the sprocket. It may be to late to fix though. Over all it is a very well done kit though. keep up the good work.
Tom
Thanks for the comments. Geez... I thought it was the other way so it can aim downwards. :-)
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