AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Acrylic or Oil Paint?
express2725
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: September 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: September 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:20 PM UTC
I just started painting figures and have bought a huge load of acrylic paint. However, I find that the acrylic doesn't give a natural tone and texture to the figure. I was told by a friend that oil paint is the best choice. So which is better?
Pave-Hawk
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 900 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 900 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:27 PM UTC
I recently switched to oils.
Still trying to mix a flesh tone I'm 100% satisfied with and working on my technique but I have been a lot happier with them.
The only acrylics I have tried are Tamiya and Gunze which are not real good when it comes to brush painting.
Still trying to mix a flesh tone I'm 100% satisfied with and working on my technique but I have been a lot happier with them.
The only acrylics I have tried are Tamiya and Gunze which are not real good when it comes to brush painting.
jimbrae
Provincia de Lugo, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:40 PM UTC
I painted with oils for years, came back to modelling and switched to acrylics. I (personally) think that using oils is a step backwards - the quality of the 'dedicated' Acrylics such as Vallejo or the recent Lifecolor range is such that why would anyone want to use oils?
I'm still using biros as well - I decided NOT to go back to quills...Jim
I'm still using biros as well - I decided NOT to go back to quills...Jim
Teacher
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: April 05, 2003
KitMaker: 4,924 posts
Armorama: 3,679 posts
Joined: April 05, 2003
KitMaker: 4,924 posts
Armorama: 3,679 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:43 PM UTC
I'm sort of mixed on oils for figures. It is extremely easy to blend with oils, and they do have a depth, or a richness to them...............but as Jim says, the modern acrylics designed for brushwork have a depth and a richness all their own, and can be made to blend with the use of retarders and a slightly different technique. In short, with practise acrylics can look just as good as oils, and have other advantages too.
Vinnie
Vinnie
insolitus
Goteborgs och Bohus, Sweden
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 649 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 649 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 03:19 AM UTC
I paint with Vallejo acrylics and I'm almost addicted to shape and wet the paintbrush with my lips so I have to stick to acrylics as long as my saliva is not made of turpentine... By the way I've learned to use them and have bought lots of them so I do best sticking to them.
chuckster
Missouri, United States
Joined: May 30, 2003
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 170 posts
Joined: May 30, 2003
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 170 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 06:52 AM UTC
I used to use oil paints, but have children in the house and did not want to subject them (or me) to the smell. I switched to acrylics and don't think they are much inferior to oils, if at all. I agree you should use something to retard the acrylic tone if you want a more realistic finish. For vehicles, I usually brush some colored chalks for a muddy or dusty look and then spray sparingly with Testors dullcoat. I am still experimenting with finishing figures painted with acrylic.
A technique I have discovered for realistic skin surfaces on figures is to first paint the surface with a very light skin tone acrylic paint. After it has fully dried, do a one or two parts water to one part acrylic paint wash over the surface. I use warm skin tone for Northern Europeans and leather for Southern Europeans, Asians, and American Indians. I am still experimenting with Negro skin tones.
A technique I have discovered for realistic skin surfaces on figures is to first paint the surface with a very light skin tone acrylic paint. After it has fully dried, do a one or two parts water to one part acrylic paint wash over the surface. I use warm skin tone for Northern Europeans and leather for Southern Europeans, Asians, and American Indians. I am still experimenting with Negro skin tones.