hi there am wonderin on how to get the base weathering look on my tanks :
sherman m4a
sherman m10
panzer IV
jagdpanther
stugg III
schimwagen
i am a keen young modeller... my diorama is france on a really rainy muddy day.. if you could help me i would be much apreciated pictures will be posted up when they are finished
Hosted by Darren Baker
Weathering tanks
destroyer
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 13, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 03:15 PM UTC
james84
Roma, Italy
Joined: January 28, 2006
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Joined: January 28, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 05:16 PM UTC
What about this?
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/dio/tiger2dio_hyeungtaekim.html
You could make the mud by mixing clear gloss varnish+earth/brown pigments+a bit of black paint...
Good luck!
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/dio/tiger2dio_hyeungtaekim.html
You could make the mud by mixing clear gloss varnish+earth/brown pigments+a bit of black paint...
Good luck!
Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 05:28 PM UTC
Hi Anthony. Firsly .... dont overdo the weathering. Build up to a level you are comfartable with, with each new kit. If you start very heavy weathering, it usually looks a mess .. as its hard to muddy it up and not lose the detail and keep it realistic.
My mud is usually a mixture of spackel (polyfilla), white glue, very fine sand, dark brown paint or pastels and static grass. Mix this in a plastic cup and add in natural places (mud guards, lower hull and wheels) with an old brush in a dabbing motion. Remember each time to add subtly so as not to loose too much detail. Less is more.
For all other effects ... look at models in the gallery ... look at building site or farm machinery. Some great weathering articles are described by MIG on ML. SEE HERE
My mud is usually a mixture of spackel (polyfilla), white glue, very fine sand, dark brown paint or pastels and static grass. Mix this in a plastic cup and add in natural places (mud guards, lower hull and wheels) with an old brush in a dabbing motion. Remember each time to add subtly so as not to loose too much detail. Less is more.
For all other effects ... look at models in the gallery ... look at building site or farm machinery. Some great weathering articles are described by MIG on ML. SEE HERE
BornToDig
Maryland, United States
Joined: December 25, 2002
KitMaker: 345 posts
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Joined: December 25, 2002
KitMaker: 345 posts
Armorama: 311 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 08:13 AM UTC
you'll be surprised how far a good wash can go to improving the look of your models. And its very easy to do.
You will need some artists oil paints (raw umber and black are good to start with, get some white and yellow ochre too), turpentine or turpenoid thinner, future floor wax, and a flat-coat.
1.first paint your model. When dry, brushpaint it with future so its glossy.
2. Apply decals
3.for your shermans mix the paints so that you have a very dark brown, almost black mix.
4. when all is dry dillute your mixed oils with some turpentine or turpenoid (just dont use the natural turp.. it never dries), until you have a very dirty water.
5. now take a small brush and apply the dirty water into the corners, nooks, and crannies of your model. around hatches and bolts.
6. The dirty water fill flow around the details and make them pop out.
7 when your wash dries, apply a flat coat to your model so it stops shining.
8. as a final step you can take some yellow ochre paint and apply little dots ontp flat surfaces and then vigorously rub them into the paint in a circular motion to simulate some fading.
9, do the same for verticle surfaces, but rather than rubbing in circles, rub/pull the dot down to make faint streaks,
For the last 2 steps a little bit goes a long way so make your yellow dots very small.
Here is an example of the above techniques on my 1/48 M-10 and T-34
notice how the color differences are very subtle.
You will need some artists oil paints (raw umber and black are good to start with, get some white and yellow ochre too), turpentine or turpenoid thinner, future floor wax, and a flat-coat.
1.first paint your model. When dry, brushpaint it with future so its glossy.
2. Apply decals
3.for your shermans mix the paints so that you have a very dark brown, almost black mix.
4. when all is dry dillute your mixed oils with some turpentine or turpenoid (just dont use the natural turp.. it never dries), until you have a very dirty water.
5. now take a small brush and apply the dirty water into the corners, nooks, and crannies of your model. around hatches and bolts.
6. The dirty water fill flow around the details and make them pop out.
7 when your wash dries, apply a flat coat to your model so it stops shining.
8. as a final step you can take some yellow ochre paint and apply little dots ontp flat surfaces and then vigorously rub them into the paint in a circular motion to simulate some fading.
9, do the same for verticle surfaces, but rather than rubbing in circles, rub/pull the dot down to make faint streaks,
For the last 2 steps a little bit goes a long way so make your yellow dots very small.
Here is an example of the above techniques on my 1/48 M-10 and T-34
notice how the color differences are very subtle.
armorjunior
California, United States
Joined: August 03, 2006
KitMaker: 263 posts
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Joined: August 03, 2006
KitMaker: 263 posts
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 08:44 AM UTC
hey were do you find future?
can't ever seem to find it
and what is pollyfila? were do i get it? also wahts statice grass? and also were do i got it?
oh and were do i find turpentine?
can't ever seem to find it
and what is pollyfila? were do i get it? also wahts statice grass? and also were do i got it?
oh and were do i find turpentine?
armorjunior
California, United States
Joined: August 03, 2006
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Joined: August 03, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 07:34 PM UTC
um any one ?
HAL0
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 07:43 PM UTC
Future you can find at grocerystore/walmart etc. I believe in cleaning supply aisles. Its actually made to be used on tile floors I believe. Sorry Im sure this is where it can be obtained, im a young modeler too I had my mom pick some up for me that last time she was shoping hehe.
AJ
AJ
armorjunior
California, United States
Joined: August 03, 2006
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Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 02:58 AM UTC
yea im only 13 so idont know were to get half the stuff metioned here
i still need to know whats static grass and spackel
i still need to know whats static grass and spackel
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 06:08 PM UTC
Armorjunior.
Spackle (polyfilla) would be found in a hardware store - it's an unmixed filler for walls/woodwork.
Static grass is used by railway modelers - should be available in the railway section of your hobby shop.
HTH
Andy
Spackle (polyfilla) would be found in a hardware store - it's an unmixed filler for walls/woodwork.
Static grass is used by railway modelers - should be available in the railway section of your hobby shop.
HTH
Andy
BornToDig
Maryland, United States
Joined: December 25, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 04:30 AM UTC
you can get everything we mentioned at an art supply store.
The Future you can get in the cleaning Isle of a supermarket. If you live in the UK it s called Johnson's Kleer
The Future you can get in the cleaning Isle of a supermarket. If you live in the UK it s called Johnson's Kleer
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 08:11 AM UTC
Hi Anthony You can save a bit of money and use some spices from your Mom's cupboard instead of static grass.'Italian seasoning' is good,Oregano can be used if you grind it up a little finer.(Not hard to do).
A little goes a long way.
cheers!
A little goes a long way.
cheers!
Percheron
Washington, United States
Joined: September 23, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
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Joined: September 23, 2006
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Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Friday, September 22, 2006 - 08:41 PM UTC
For rust I started using real rust. I bought some steel wool, put it in a glass jar with salt water, over the course of a few days I stirred it with stick and added a touch of dish soap. After the water is good and rusty I used an eye dropper ( available at your local pharmacy) to suck out the water and put it into a empty paint bottle. Then with a small, fine brush rub the mix onto tracks and wheels. You could mix it with some colors to make them kind of metallic.
armorjunior
California, United States
Joined: August 03, 2006
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Posted: Friday, September 22, 2006 - 09:46 PM UTC
il like that real rust use
i treid usin real mud crushed into a paowder and mixed with white glue and staic grass
the result came out looking like the mud and dried
im gona attempt to try fresh mud
i just need varnish does anyone know what varnish is?
i treid usin real mud crushed into a paowder and mixed with white glue and staic grass
the result came out looking like the mud and dried
im gona attempt to try fresh mud
i just need varnish does anyone know what varnish is?
Percheron
Washington, United States
Joined: September 23, 2006
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Posted: Friday, September 22, 2006 - 09:58 PM UTC
Varnish can be found at your local hardware store. It is a clear protective finish that is usually put onto wood. It can be found in spray or brush form. Go with an acrylic as it is easy to clean up after.
-Derek
-Derek
armorjunior
California, United States
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Posted: Friday, September 22, 2006 - 11:04 PM UTC
do they sell acrliyc varnish at the hardware store like homedeopt orosh
or do i have to go to a hobby store for acrliyc varnish?
or do i have to go to a hobby store for acrliyc varnish?
Percheron
Washington, United States
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Posted: Friday, September 22, 2006 - 11:08 PM UTC
Hardware store such as home depot will carry it. Just ask one of the employees for help.