I know the motorized tanks that some companies such as Trumpeter sell aren't that accurate and perhaps more toy-like but I've been thinking of giving one a shot just for kicks. Only thing is I'm not entirely sure what the term "motorized" encompasses, most descriptions are fairly vague. Do you simply turn a switch and the tracks move, is there a wire (or wireless) control that gives you some input and if so, what functions?
The last thing I want is a vehicle all pock marked with holes that can only make a little noise and spin the wheels.
Thanks,
Thi
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Motorized Tanks
Thiazi
Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 03, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 40 posts
Joined: February 03, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 40 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 04:25 AM UTC
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 05:00 AM UTC
Motorized tank models generally come in three different variants. The oldest variant that is still used today is a simple one motor gearbox that allows the tank to go forward (and reverse I believe). It travels in one direction and you must chase it to keep up with it. There is a simple switch that you slide on the bottom of the hull. It is the most common type. Tamiya and Trumpeter makes these types of "carpet crawlers".
Tamiya also made wired remote controlled tanks. These were virtually the same kits as above, but included a two motor gearbox. Each motor controls one side of track. The tanks can go forward, backward, right, left and spin on its axis (make one track go forward and the other side backwards). You've still got to walk along to keep up with it. Tamiya also did a 3-motored M1 Abrams that rotated the turret too.
Tamiya also did a series of radio controlled tanks. These included a small R/C transmitter. It worked the same as above but instead of being hard wired, you had a radio. There weren't too many in this series. I recall several of their newer WW2 German tanks like the Tiger, King Tiger and perhaps Panther. I have the radio controlled M1A1 Abrams.
Tamiya also made wired remote controlled tanks. These were virtually the same kits as above, but included a two motor gearbox. Each motor controls one side of track. The tanks can go forward, backward, right, left and spin on its axis (make one track go forward and the other side backwards). You've still got to walk along to keep up with it. Tamiya also did a 3-motored M1 Abrams that rotated the turret too.
Tamiya also did a series of radio controlled tanks. These included a small R/C transmitter. It worked the same as above but instead of being hard wired, you had a radio. There weren't too many in this series. I recall several of their newer WW2 German tanks like the Tiger, King Tiger and perhaps Panther. I have the radio controlled M1A1 Abrams.
Thiazi
Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 03, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 40 posts
Joined: February 03, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 40 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 05:14 AM UTC
Thank you very much, that was exactly the answer I was looking for
Johnston_RCR
Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 01, 2006
KitMaker: 470 posts
Armorama: 367 posts
Joined: April 01, 2006
KitMaker: 470 posts
Armorama: 367 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 06:11 AM UTC
I build a Leopard 2A5 German Army Test Vehicle not long ago from MiniHobbyModels. For a motorized "carpet-crawler", it is a really good kit. Pretty basic, but it looks pretty nice when put together. The instructions are misdrawn in a couple blaces (there is no access door for the batteries, contrary to the instructions) they are still simple, and its easy to guess or research the correct look of mislabeled steps. Even comes with a figure.
There is a simple switch on the bottom, with a slot cut in the hull just big enough for the switch to move positions (forward and off). Wheels are attached by screws that line up well, go in easy, hold, and are easily painted over and kind of blend in after painting.....well, as best as screws can. The upper and lower hull can be glued together, as the battery box is conviently located right below the turret. Pop the turret off, put your batteries in, put the turret back in its ring, and enjoy lol.
There is a simple switch on the bottom, with a slot cut in the hull just big enough for the switch to move positions (forward and off). Wheels are attached by screws that line up well, go in easy, hold, and are easily painted over and kind of blend in after painting.....well, as best as screws can. The upper and lower hull can be glued together, as the battery box is conviently located right below the turret. Pop the turret off, put your batteries in, put the turret back in its ring, and enjoy lol.