Now don't flame me here. I tried to look some of this up and did get some answers but... and I am at work so can not go crazy at the moment.

Pawel's review of the Tamiya kit seems to indicate building the A2 is the way to go, except that the roadwheel arms and idlers need to be moved. He further indicates the Academy kit may be the way to go here since they are not molded on. Has anybody done this? How tough was it to do? Pawel, I see you did the A3. Do you have any in-progress photos of this modification on your model? Exactly where do they need to be moved to? Any clear photos of this difference?

I probably will do an A2 assuming that is what the engineers used in OIF1 since I want to show all that stuff hanging off the track the engineers used. And they acted like infantry in the built up areas by firing from the rear hatch. I want to depict this too using the many available figures out there now (I think the Warrior ones w/ slight modification will work best since they are aiming/firing). I suppose I will end up using the Academy kit since it has an interior and some it will be seen down that large rear hatch even with figures in place.

Besides what I mentioned above is there anything else I need to keep a look out for in building either the Academy or Tamiya kit into an A2?

I tried to find Sabot's M113 pics but I did not see them. Are they there in those hundreds of pics? I know he used to have a motorpool section of photos.

Bob

An A2 or an A3 would work for an engineer track in OIF. Personally, I don't think the roadwheel height is enough of an issue to worry about. But that is up to you.

I like the academy kit over the Tamyia there are some good pics inthe Concord vol 27 Victory in Baghdad book

Thanks for the thoughts. I forgot to ask about the tracks. I will definitely look for those MK tracks. I suppose those are the tracks used by the fellow who recently had his M113 posted on ML. They look great.

I found Rob's photos and no M113A2 though. I also went through my stuff here at home at it seems to me that as long as the track is not touching the front roadwheel, and the 2nd wheel is close but not touching (same for the last one) then it should look good. I am guessing though that this might be tough to work out since nothing is adjustable. Gary, is your mortar track built w/ the MK tracks too? Any problems getting the correct sag?

I've got the Eduard set too. I don't know how accurate it is, but they usually do a pretty good job.

I wonder if Pawel can chime in on the suspension thing? I know he built an A3 but there are not too many photos.

Bob