hey

i found a tube of burnt umber oil paint today and i have heard it mentioned before - so what do you use it for in painted ,weathering

cheers
matt

Well Matt I like to use it as a weathering effect for rust. I also use burnt sienna with the burnt umber, I use the two to blend together which work out well for me. I’ve seen and heard from others that they use a wash on their armor and figures.





Joe

hi matt! the most common use for burnt umber oil paint that i know of is as a "wash" for panel lines and other nooks and crannies where dirt and grime usually accumulate. the wash makes details stand out without looking too stark which is what would happen if you use a darker color like black.

just add the burnt umber to some turpentine in small amounts. you want the mix to be thin enough so that it flows freely and runs along the grooves and panel lines. when the turp dries, it deposits the color in the areas where you applied the wash to. voila! your model suddenly looks less flat and more 3 dimensional.

hey

with using turps to thin it down it will take off my enamel base coat tho


matt

Thats one of the reasons why modellers use Future/Klear to gloss coat their models. Not only does it allow the wash to flow better, being acrylic based it is unaffected by solvent based thinners.

geoff is right. i forgot to mention that we usually use future to serve as a barrier and also to provide a nice smooth surface so the wash flows well. just give the future coat some time to dry (i wait overnight).

kol,yer i got some of that,should i give it one or two coats


matt

2 or 3 light coats is what normally recommended. I too have a Chieftain at this stage and will be applying Future with airbrush before washes. Should have results to post this month.

Possibly off topic, and if so I'm sorry, but what is the best way to apply Future if you don't have an airbrush? I haven't progressed to the level yet. Can it be brushed on?

You can definitely brush it on. Future by nature is "self-leveling", so brush marks will smooth out on their own. My only caution is to be careful with the quantity you're brushing on, otherwise you might have some drip marks or pooling. If that does happen, you can reapply more Future, which will "melt" the original coat, then remove excess and smooht, or apply some Windex, which will completely remove it. Be careful, though, because Windex will remove acrylic paint as well.

- Frank

I don't have an airbrush either, so use Tamiya enamel rattle cans to apply the base colour. The rattle can coating is quite a bit thicker than you would get from an airbrush but does not fill in fine detail., thus more hard wearing as far as applying a coat of turps over it,
I also use burnt umber oil paint as a wash.

The model should be up to the stage where it looks like it has just rolled out the factory door newly painted and with insignia attached.
I do apply a small patch of future where the decals will go and then brush another coat of future over the decal when it is situated correctly

I do not seal the whole kit with future but leave the base coat to evaporate all thinners out for several days before doing an oil paint wash, using turps as the carrier.
I have not had any problem with the turps removing the base coat as long as you give it time to cure properly as mentioned above.
The final finish is quite flat and in many cases does not need a dullcoate once you have developed your technique

I use a mix ratio of about 95 percent turps to 5 percent burnt umber and apply this with a flat wide good quality brush in even strokes.
Keep the wash well agitated so the oil paint is well supended in the turps and not sitting on the bottom, dip the brush in and wipe most of the wash off on the rim of the container.
Run the brush over the vehicle in the direction rain would run down,.
The whole process is over and done with in less than a minute once you have done a couple.
Leave it to evaporate the turps off for a couple of days, and repeat if necessary.

After about a week I will mix a stronger brew of a ratio of about 25 umber to 75 turps and using a very fine brush give a touch around bolt heads, engine grill recesses, doors, hatches, hinges etc etc. Makes your model look like it has been driven around a bit in the dust and rain without going overboard with heaps of mud and paint chipping.

I would suggest having a practice run on something that you don't have a strong attachment to first. but if you use the rule everything in moderation, you won't go wrong!

Erin:
I think you just solved my problem.

I'm doing my very first wash ever. I used Future and the
high dollar oil paint thinned with turp at about the same
mix ratio.

When I applied it, all it would do was bead up as any
liquid should do on a waxed surface. I just kept brushing
it till the wash spread out.

Nothing in the cracks or around the high spots. That was
yesterday about this time of day,so it's been 24hrs.

So you're saying to go back and reapply it to those
high points and the crevises again,right?

Hopeing you're right
Thanks
The Mutt

You can use this colour as a filter effect! If you have an enamel basecoat, then thin it with X-20A Acrylic thinner, and vice versa.

So you're saying to go back and reapply it to those
high points and the crevices again,right?

Hoping you're right
Thanks
The Mutt

Yes, but use a very fine brush so that the wash goes exactly where you want it to and have a larger clean brush, say a round no 6, to sponge up immediately any wash that spreads where you don't want it to go.

If you need to sponge up an errant run do it quickly and only once, because if you play around with it, it will dilute the original wash application and create a light spot on your model.