Hello everyone.
I have been recently looking at all of the WWII "olive Drab" colors that are out there on the market and I thought I'd ask the group this question.
What is your Favorite Brand/Color of Olive Drab to use to depict WWII vehicles and Why?
Note: This is NOT a topic on the "Correct" shade of OD.
For the purpose of this discussion we will start with the basecoat color you like to start with. And if you wish to add more details, I'm sure we would enjoy reading them.
My personal favorite for base coat at the moment is the Testors Model Master brand, Faded Olive Drab.
Hosted by Darren Baker
What is your Favorite color for WWII OD? why?
Posted: Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 05:37 PM UTC
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 05:50 PM UTC
Sorry to throw a spanner in the works early Del, but my favourite would be a shade of artists pastel, which once clear coat sealed is my base coat... Helluva lot cheaper too! Have used Tamiya OD rattlers, as well as Testors flat OD, but with the weathering, washes etc. it is just that, a base, so therefore the cost is the deciding factor for me...
Cheers
Brad
Cheers
Brad
Posted: Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 06:26 PM UTC
I use both Tamiya and Vallejo. Either on their own, or mixed with Buff (T), Sand White (V), Deck Tan (T), or Flesh (V). Depending on your amount of weathering and fading, Brad is right, the actual OD is just a base coat.
Both are brushed and air-brushed, although Vallejo edges it for hand brushing.
Cheers
Henk
Both are brushed and air-brushed, although Vallejo edges it for hand brushing.
Cheers
Henk
Posted: Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 06:40 PM UTC
Tamiya I love using their paints for air brushing.
Posted: Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 06:55 PM UTC
I forgot to add, if I had to pick a single favourite, it would be Tamiya. I feel it responds better to mixing, and looks better faded.
Cheers
Henk
Cheers
Henk
Posted: Monday, October 02, 2006 - 10:56 PM UTC
Tamiya OD, mixed with a touch of panzer yellow (dunkelgelb) for scale lightening. Weathering takes care of the rest of the lightening.
I like it because I believe Steve Z.'s research and I believe that factory paints really did't fade much in the relatively short time most tanks were in service. I also believe that the colours we see or infer from photos are visibly much lighter primarily because of dust & grime, not the actual breakdown of the paint itself. I then try to replicate it through application of dust and grime as opposed to modifying the base colour much.
I like my results, what can I say? :-)
Paul
I like it because I believe Steve Z.'s research and I believe that factory paints really did't fade much in the relatively short time most tanks were in service. I also believe that the colours we see or infer from photos are visibly much lighter primarily because of dust & grime, not the actual breakdown of the paint itself. I then try to replicate it through application of dust and grime as opposed to modifying the base colour much.
I like my results, what can I say? :-)
Paul
bulivyf
Vendor
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Posted: Monday, October 02, 2006 - 11:39 PM UTC
Hi, i make of below clasic decals only XTRA Color Faded Olive and below stencil or dry decals Faded Olive from Testors. This mix with Testors Olive Drab.
Miloslav
Miloslav
JimF
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, October 02, 2006 - 11:58 PM UTC
I've used the Model Masters Olive Drab and Faded Olive Drab, but I find it more fun to shade with a not-overly bright shade of yellow craft acrylic paint, and then mix in Lamp Black acrylic pain slowly until I get the approximate shade I want.
Simon
Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 09:41 AM UTC
Hi there
I use Valejo Russian Uniform (924) and Humbrols Light Olive (86). Valejos are lighter than Humbrols but it works out fine: Uniforms and vehicles get worn and faded by weather so the two shades complement eachother fine.
Cheers
Simon
I use Valejo Russian Uniform (924) and Humbrols Light Olive (86). Valejos are lighter than Humbrols but it works out fine: Uniforms and vehicles get worn and faded by weather so the two shades complement eachother fine.
Cheers
Simon
Pavlovsdog
Carlow, Ireland
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 04:00 PM UTC
Has to be Tamiya OD with some Yellow for vehicles and Humbrol straight from the pot for US Helmets
Jerry
Jerry
DT61
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 05:00 PM UTC
I have used Tamiya OD lightened with buff as my base coat as I find it darkens with washes.
Darryl
Darryl
jlmurc
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:15 PM UTC
Following an article in a vintage [1996] Tamiya Magazine, I like to make my own, you can try the recipe if you like as I find it looks really good.
XF51 Khaki Drab
XF7 Flat Red - Add this until near brown of Olive Drab is attained; if it goes too red add XF5 Flat Green to correct it to the colour you require.
To lighten the mix use XF15 Flat Flesh rather than White
John
XF51 Khaki Drab
XF7 Flat Red - Add this until near brown of Olive Drab is attained; if it goes too red add XF5 Flat Green to correct it to the colour you require.
To lighten the mix use XF15 Flat Flesh rather than White
John
keenan
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:17 PM UTC
And away we go...
Shaun
Shaun
shado67
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:37 PM UTC
I use Humbrol 66 as a base coat/pre-shade and then a top coat of Humbrol 155. After this the color will vary with washes and drybrushing, so no 2 US WWII subjects look the same.
I also like Model Master WWII OD and Faded OD. These look great as well, but as always, washes and drybrushing will alter the final color.
Your best bet is to try a couple of different brands and shades and see what you like best.
I also like Model Master WWII OD and Faded OD. These look great as well, but as always, washes and drybrushing will alter the final color.
Your best bet is to try a couple of different brands and shades and see what you like best.
jlmurc
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 12:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
And away we go...
Shaun
Honest Shaun, I am not trying to start a what is the most accurate, I saw the mix, tried it and like it so it is just popped into the melting pot for people to try. No comment about the rights or wrongs of manufactured items is implied or intended, particularly as most of the colours that I use are for German equipment. The mix is the colour that I will use to paint my Dragon wagon in the future, when I have time to do it justice.
John
blaster76
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Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 02:53 AM UTC
For US vehicles from 1941 until 1976 I primarily use 4 colors. All are model master enamels.
1. Faded OD
2. Medium green
3. Green drab
4. Olive drab
I mix and match any combination of colors though usually use just two of them at a time. Once in a while I'll through in some Khaki or Military brown just to liven things up a bit
1. Faded OD
2. Medium green
3. Green drab
4. Olive drab
I mix and match any combination of colors though usually use just two of them at a time. Once in a while I'll through in some Khaki or Military brown just to liven things up a bit