I've decided to upload the shots of my freshly finished Dragon M1A1 AIM Abrams for your constructive criticism. Your feedback is much appreciated.
Enjoy.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1A1 AIM Abrams Finished
subjugator
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:02 AM UTC
Good time of the day, everyone
I've decided to upload the shots of my freshly finished Dragon M1A1 AIM Abrams for your constructive criticism. Your feedback is much appreciated.
Enjoy.
I've decided to upload the shots of my freshly finished Dragon M1A1 AIM Abrams for your constructive criticism. Your feedback is much appreciated.
Enjoy.
Ric_Cody
Joined: May 22, 2005
KitMaker: 299 posts
Armorama: 294 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:19 AM UTC
so far what I've noticed is that the TC's .50 CAL MG is not put together correctly, it should sit a little lower on the two pieces left and right, the right side smoke grenade launcher is canted to the right, and also the decal on the front slope reads 89, it should be fliped over to be 68
Ric
Ric
steelskin
Joined: July 04, 2006
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 104 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:30 AM UTC
sweet! thanks for posting these pics. i just bought the same kit last week. am planning to start building in the next few days and i'll definitely use your build as a reference. it would have been great if you added a litlle write-up about how you did it, what brand and colors you used for painting, etc.
nice clean build overall. i lespecially ike the fading effect (or was that simulated dust?) on some of the markings. just a small suggestion though, why not add some more pigments or pastels for weathering particularly on the lower hull?
nice clean build overall. i lespecially ike the fading effect (or was that simulated dust?) on some of the markings. just a small suggestion though, why not add some more pigments or pastels for weathering particularly on the lower hull?
Danial
Joined: May 23, 2005
KitMaker: 693 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:42 AM UTC
very nice..but the gun..its a lil too shiny mate..
overall, nice built...
overall, nice built...
jazza
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:44 AM UTC
i think its pretty well done. Perhaps its the lighting but the overall paint does look a little dark compared to the usual light sand colour. Which colour did you end up using?
Also does the Dragon kit come with personnel equipment?
Also does the Dragon kit come with personnel equipment?
Rockfall
#202
Joined: December 19, 2004
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 602 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 06:13 PM UTC
Thanks for posting your build for us to look at. I have been slowly trying to learn more about this vehicle as I know very little about modern subjects.
Richard pointed out the 2 things that popped out to me at firrst.
I noticed that you seem to have painted over the wheel hubs. As I understand it (I am still on the learning cuirve when it comes to Abrams) they are supposed to be clear so the fluid levels can be checked.
Also your decals are a bit "mixed" The 2124 on the turret isn't called out for this vehicle. Its for the M1A1D version. The scorpion decal also isn't called out on this one either.
After spending a few evenings studying the instructions its not hard to get things mixed up. They arn't the clearest and you really need to study them to get everything straight and even then I still have a bunch of questions beofre I start building it.
Just need to get that T-72 done for the greatest tanks campaign.
Again thanks for sharing and putting yourself "out there" for us to comment.
Jeff
Nope which is to bad but then again I am not sure they would have had any room in the box for it!!
Jeff
Richard pointed out the 2 things that popped out to me at firrst.
I noticed that you seem to have painted over the wheel hubs. As I understand it (I am still on the learning cuirve when it comes to Abrams) they are supposed to be clear so the fluid levels can be checked.
Also your decals are a bit "mixed" The 2124 on the turret isn't called out for this vehicle. Its for the M1A1D version. The scorpion decal also isn't called out on this one either.
After spending a few evenings studying the instructions its not hard to get things mixed up. They arn't the clearest and you really need to study them to get everything straight and even then I still have a bunch of questions beofre I start building it.
Just need to get that T-72 done for the greatest tanks campaign.
Again thanks for sharing and putting yourself "out there" for us to comment.
Jeff
Quoted Text
Also does the Dragon kit come with personnel equipment?
Nope which is to bad but then again I am not sure they would have had any room in the box for it!!
Jeff
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 06:25 PM UTC
Looks like a decent build. A few issues though. The decals are all mixed up though. The 51 and chevron on the side and "All Bout Da Bones" are for a 1-64AR tank from 3ID, as is the draw grid data on the lower front glacis plate and rear sides (QTA #s). The bumper numbers and numbers on the turret are from a tank from 1-66AR, 4th ID. 4ID didn't draw vehicles, but brought theirs from home at Ft Hood, TX. Need to decide which you want it to represent. There is quite a bit of silvering on some of the decals too.
The center hubs on the road wheels should be painted a dark black-brown color on the inside. They are filled with oil and grease to lubricate the hubs. The smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends. Headlights need to be silver and the slit to their right should be gloss black. Both antenna mounts should have an antenna 2 3/4" long, and should be painted dark green. Also agree that the TC's .50 cal looks off, way too high. It should also have CIPs on it.
A good start. Some tweaks and it can be great.
The center hubs on the road wheels should be painted a dark black-brown color on the inside. They are filled with oil and grease to lubricate the hubs. The smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends. Headlights need to be silver and the slit to their right should be gloss black. Both antenna mounts should have an antenna 2 3/4" long, and should be painted dark green. Also agree that the TC's .50 cal looks off, way too high. It should also have CIPs on it.
A good start. Some tweaks and it can be great.
subjugator
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 07:57 PM UTC
Hi Everyone,
Thanks very much for all your comments. Using them as a reference I'll try to retouch it and make it look more like the real thing.
Good to know about the wheel hub color, I was wandering why they came transparent but didn't give it a second thought. The decals - I know they are inaccurate, I just didn't like the turret stickers that came with the kit (color mismatch), and since its only going to sit on the shelf for my personal enjoyment decided to take the liberty and create an improvised marking scheme.
As for the MG on the turret - that was also a sort of a "do what fits" type of thing. The instructions on that particular portion of the build are not very clear, so I just tried putting it together somehow.
The color I used was Tamiya Khaki lightened with Tamiya Dark Yellow. I was trying to find the sand color that Abramses are usually painted but couldn't quite match it - suggestions are much appreciated.
This was my first modern tank, as I usually only build WW2 stuff, but just couldn't pass up the kit when I saw it in the store. One thing I can honestly claim is that weathering modern armor is so much harder than older stuff, as one needs to be subtle with the amount of wear and tear applied.
Once again, thanks a lot for taking your time and commenting on the build.
Thanks very much for all your comments. Using them as a reference I'll try to retouch it and make it look more like the real thing.
Good to know about the wheel hub color, I was wandering why they came transparent but didn't give it a second thought. The decals - I know they are inaccurate, I just didn't like the turret stickers that came with the kit (color mismatch), and since its only going to sit on the shelf for my personal enjoyment decided to take the liberty and create an improvised marking scheme.
As for the MG on the turret - that was also a sort of a "do what fits" type of thing. The instructions on that particular portion of the build are not very clear, so I just tried putting it together somehow.
The color I used was Tamiya Khaki lightened with Tamiya Dark Yellow. I was trying to find the sand color that Abramses are usually painted but couldn't quite match it - suggestions are much appreciated.
This was my first modern tank, as I usually only build WW2 stuff, but just couldn't pass up the kit when I saw it in the store. One thing I can honestly claim is that weathering modern armor is so much harder than older stuff, as one needs to be subtle with the amount of wear and tear applied.
Once again, thanks a lot for taking your time and commenting on the build.
Erik67
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
Armorama: 1,423 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 08:07 PM UTC
I guess most things have been mentioned, but if you want to continue using Tamiya paints you should try a mixture of 40% Buff (XF-57)+ 30% Desert yellow (XF-59)+ 30% Flat white (XF-2). It makes a pretty decent US desert armour color. Lately I have been using Xtracrylics US Gulf War Armour XA1812 color. It looks good compared to pics of the actual thing.
Erik
Erik
FatMike
Joined: September 11, 2006
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 08:10 PM UTC
Well, what can I say? I think it looks great as a "just for fun, my first modern tank build" I personaly think that if your happy with it, thats all that matters. Yes you some things wrong, but they have all been pointed out, and there is no need to "beat a dead horse". I hope that your not put off about the negitive comments, as they are only there to help you in the future, and also that you will try and tackle another modern tank. Looks good man, I hope to see more modern work form you.
jlmurc
Joined: August 29, 2005
KitMaker: 1,267 posts
Armorama: 969 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 08:25 PM UTC
If you are happy and enjoyed the build then that is the most important thing and as your experience grows, then you will add to the potential that your model shows.
I got my M1 last Friday and looking through the instructions, there are areas that look a little ambiguous and will need lots of test fitting and looking at reference pictures and as I said to the staff in my LHS it is most definitely not a 'shake and bake' kit.
Have fun and keep enjoying your projects.
John
I got my M1 last Friday and looking through the instructions, there are areas that look a little ambiguous and will need lots of test fitting and looking at reference pictures and as I said to the staff in my LHS it is most definitely not a 'shake and bake' kit.
Have fun and keep enjoying your projects.
John
jlmurc
Joined: August 29, 2005
KitMaker: 1,267 posts
Armorama: 969 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 08:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends
Gino,
Quick question that has been floating about since reading the instructions about the smoke greanades.
What is the difference between both types, in my day on Chieftain and the CVR[T], on the few times that they were issued for demonstrations I only remember being issued one type in the British Army?
John
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThe smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends
Gino,
Quick question that has been floating about since reading the instructions about the smoke greanades.
What is the difference between both types, in my day on Chieftain and the CVR[T], on the few times that they were issued for demonstrations I only remember being issued one type in the British Army?
John
The black ones are IR smoke, the screen blocks IR or thermal viewers as well. The green ones are plain white smoke.
Quoted Text
I know they are inaccurate, I just didn't like the turret stickers that came with the kit (color mismatch),
Subjugator, if you are talking about the square stickers that are part of the 3ID decals, they are not supposed to be the same color. They are CIPs (Combat Identifier Panels) and are made of aluminum squares. They show up as a different colored square (a cool spot) on thermal viewers and help ID the tank as friendly.
badger66
Joined: April 09, 2005
KitMaker: 251 posts
Armorama: 232 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 01:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextThe smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends
Gino,
Quick question that has been floating about since reading the instructions about the smoke greanades.
What is the difference between both types, in my day on Chieftain and the CVR[T], on the few times that they were issued for demonstrations I only remember being issued one type in the British Army?
John
The black ones are IR smoke, the screen blocks IR or thermal viewers as well. The green ones are plain white smoke.Quoted TextI know they are inaccurate, I just didn't like the turret stickers that came with the kit (color mismatch),
Subjugator, if you are talking about the square stickers that are part of the 3ID decals, they are not supposed to be the same color. They are CIPs (Combat Identifier Panels) and are made of aluminum squares. They show up as a different colored square (a cool spot) on thermal viewers and help ID the tank as friendly.
Gino,
I think he is talking about the sticker 2124 markings that are used in 4th ID at that time on the side of the turrets and on the skirts.
maximus8425
Joined: May 12, 2006
KitMaker: 331 posts
Armorama: 320 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 01:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThe smoke grenades should be either black for the smooth ended ones, or pale green for the ones with recessed ends
Gino,
Quick question that has been floating about since reading the instructions about the smoke greanades.
What is the difference between both types, in my day on Chieftain and the CVR[T], on the few times that they were issued for demonstrations I only remember being issued one type in the British Army?
John
Yup the good old L8 grenades, we still use them and will be for some time to come, although there is a replacement in the offing but not ready yet. You can't beat phos grenades as they burn very hot giving you a good thermal screen, give off s**tloads of white smoke and apart from canister rounds they're about the best anti-pedestrian (infantry) rounds going.
subjugator
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 02:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Subjugator, if you are talking about the square stickers that are part of the 3ID decals, they are not supposed to be the same color. They are CIPs (Combat Identifier Panels) and are made of aluminum squares. They show up as a different colored square (a cool spot) on thermal viewers and help ID the tank as friendly.
Oh, so thats what they are
. OK, its still not too late to put them on.
MikeMummey
Joined: February 09, 2005
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 653 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 02:28 AM UTC
The black colored (rubber) smoke grenades are RP (Red Phosporous) and make a white screening smoke. The light green(plastic) ones are the IR(Infra Red) defeating screening smoke. Out here. 
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 04:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The black colored (rubber) smoke grenades are RP (Red Phosporous) and make a white screening smoke. The light green(plastic) ones are the IR(Infra Red) defeating screening smoke. Out here.
Thats what I meant. I always mix up the colors. Green = IR smoke, Black = plain white smoke.
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