After I finish applying the camo to my most recent build, I want to apply a layer of dust to tone down the camo pattern and tie things together. So, I have a couple of questions about how to do this. I was planning to spray acrylic Tamiya Buff before doing any washes (the camo has been sprayed in acrylic) and after painting the tools and tow cables. Is this the correct sequence?

The mechanics of applying the dust layer have me a bit confused. Does one typically heavily dilute the dust paint, so that it's in some sense a sprayed wash? Or, does one not dilute the paint any more than regular thinning and then rely on trigger control to keep from overdoing it? Other than these questions (and spraying a bit more heavily on the lower hull and running gear) is there anything more that I need to know? I will be most grateful for any advice.


Dave

I paint with acrylics too and my sequence is paint, seal with future, wash, drybrush, weather and if I need some spot pin washes I'll do them. I then do a touch up dry brush and seal it(still trying to get the hang of proper drybrushes myself).

The weathering coat is just what you said it was, a thinned buff or flat earth color and remember that less is more. Don't overdo the coat, just dust up the running gear, lower hull, fenders, bottom of front slope and rear of the tank and stop. Look it over and see if you need any touch ups anywhere but remember that dust/dirt is not always uniform but is close to it (if I'm explaining this right) lol. That's advice I heard from someone else here, something I've taken into the mental file as a tip from a fellow Big A member, to always stop before you go too far. You can always add more but it's hard to take away that dust up.

Don't forget to add some ground up pastels or pigment powders to the tracks and roadwheels if you'd like, to give it even more character. Post your work when you're done!

I tend to apply a filter for this which is effectively a diluted mixture of the base coat. So if you are doing a 3 camo scheme, i would be using the one that green or OD. 1 part green, 3 - 4 part thinner.

To add an even heavier dust look, thats where MIG pigments help me out alot. Just directly apply it to the surface and you will see results.

I do this with a black wash. I know everyone doesn't use black on every base coat, but I do. I make a very thin wash with lamp black oil paint and turpenoid. I then wash the whole kit. This ties all the colors together nicely. I then will go back and use thicker pin washes to bring out the detail.

Use caution applying the dust. Use good trigger control as opposed to distance to make the coat light. If you get too far away, the paint will dry before it hits the kit and make a mess. Good luck.

Patrick

How do you seal your build before applying the wash and how long do you let it cure? I've always worried that doing an overall wash like that would lift the paint, so I've not tried that yet.

I use mostly Tamiya paints for my base coats and let them cure about 24 hours. I then seal them with Future floor wax and let it set for about 12 hours. With the gloss base of the Future, the wash flows evenly over the kit without trouble. I've never had Turpenoid harm a base coat whether it was enamel or acrylic. It works well for me.

Patrick

First, thanks to everyone has provided suggestions and advice. It just goes to show that there are as many "standard" ways of doing the waethering as there are modelers. :-) It's a bit daunting as a novice to find my way through the maze of techniques that people employ, so thanks for the guidance.




The "dust coat" is an idea put into my head by Tom Cockle as he does this in his book, "Modelling the Early Panzerkampfwagen IV." He then follows this dust coat with a black wash as you described. He then follows the general black wash, with a Van Dyke Brown/Burnt Sienna detail wash. Though Mr Cockle doesn't give a ton of details, maybe I'll try his suggestions. So, thanks for the more detailed guidance on applying the black wash.


Dave

Do you shoot the Future thru your airbrush? I've heard clean-up is fairly easy (can even use Windex) but have been hesitant to try it for fear of gumming things up...

You should not have any trouble with the windex cleaning out the future. I use either windex or plain alcohol to clean future as well as my Tamiya paint and it works great.

Thanks for the info Mark. I'll give it a shot...

Do you shoot the Future thru your airbrush? I've heard clean-up is fairly easy (can even use Windex) but have been hesitant to try it for fear of gumming things up...[/quote]

I shoot it through a hi flo nozzle @ 35 psi using my Aztek DA airbrush and I don't rush it- I usually use 3-4 coats lightly to make sure I have covered everything ENTIRELY. If the Turpenoid gets through your sealant it COULD be messy. I use acyrlics AND enamels on my models so I have to be careful. As stated above I wait 12-24 hours before applying my washes and weathering. If you weather onto a flat surface it dries quicker and streaks & pooling will raise their ugly heads....

Just a side note on dust - remember dust will build up on the flat surfaces of your model, especially the hull roof, fenders, etc... but allow for wear @ hatches and where they would walk....

HTH
Chris