AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Warming up spray cans?
godfather
Canada
Joined: June 26, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 11:23 PM UTC
I understand that warming up spray paint, dullcoat cans help the flow. How hot should they be heated. Are we talking nearly boiling water or tap hot? I do not want an explosion
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
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Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 11:26 PM UTC
In a sauce pan with hot tap water.
Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 11:42 PM UTC
Be VERY VERY CAREFULL when heating spray cans
I put one in a bowl of tap hot water, the gas and paint expanded so much the contents would not mix or even spray!, I could not even squeeze the can it was that rigid and solid.
I move my cans of primer from the shed into the spare room a day or so before I need them,so they at room temp when I need them.
HTH
Andy
I put one in a bowl of tap hot water, the gas and paint expanded so much the contents would not mix or even spray!, I could not even squeeze the can it was that rigid and solid.
I move my cans of primer from the shed into the spare room a day or so before I need them,so they at room temp when I need them.
HTH
Andy
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 04:13 AM UTC
Never needed to warm the cans, myself. I suppose in a cold climate it might be necessary. When used for an extended period, however, an aerosol can will drop in temperature, due to the expansion of the gas, so dunking it in a pan of tepid water can help to maintain pressure (water is a tremendous heat reservois--it doesn't need to be hot). I've only needed to do this with Propel cans when airbrushing for an extended period, though (back before I got a compressor). I rarely need to spray that much from a can of paint.
mother
New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 06:46 AM UTC
I myself warm cans of paint, especially the dull coat. The best and safest way I found was to run the can under good warm water. Every couple of seconds shake the can, you’ll notice that the can feels warm. But after a few shakes the can begins to feel cool again. Again under the good warm water and repeat shaking. When you feel that the cans content, stays warm…you then have the right temperature and a good flow.
Joe
Joe
Gunfighter
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 06:55 AM UTC
I'll contribute something very off-the-wall, more to get a grin than practical. I used to carry whatever color I needed in a pocket of my sweat pants. Just pop it in a little while before I needed it and let good ol' body temp take care of the rest. The added benefit was that it got a decent shaking as well since every modeling sessions tends to be interrupted by my kids. Chase them up and down the steps a few times and around the kitchen, and the paint was ready to go!
Now back to our regularly scheduled post...
- Frank
Now back to our regularly scheduled post...
- Frank
kevinb120
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 09, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 09:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I myself warm cans of paint, especially the dull coat. The best and safest way I found was to run the can under good warm water. Every couple of seconds shake the can, you’ll notice that the can feels warm. But after a few shakes the can begins to feel cool again. Again under the good warm water and repeat shaking. When you feel that the cans content, stays warm…you then have the right temperature and a good flow.
Joe
That would be the proper way to do it
Just don't warm cans kept much cooler then room temperature, if they are in the garage leave them in the house for a while first. When the paint is warmed it makes a huge difference in the quality of finish and keeps the pressure higher for better atomiziation of the paint..
Hollowpoint
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 10:01 AM UTC
Hold the can in your hand and shake on and off for about a half-hour. Then (keep that can in your hand and shake it some), run some tap water until it is very hot, fill a large (at least one gallon to hold the heat) container, then drop the can in. Pull it out every 30 seconds or so (it will float), give it a few shakes, then drop it back in the hot water. Do this for about 10 minutes, then wipe it off, shake some more and spray.
I've done this many, many times and never had a problem. I like to prep in the 2nd quarter of a football game, then shoot paint at halftime.
Make sure you clear the nozzle after you are done shooting paint by turning the can upside down, then spraying until it comes out clear.
I've done this many, many times and never had a problem. I like to prep in the 2nd quarter of a football game, then shoot paint at halftime.
Make sure you clear the nozzle after you are done shooting paint by turning the can upside down, then spraying until it comes out clear.
kevinb120
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 10:12 AM UTC
This is done with spray paint, and I mean every single thing so it can look good if you're carefull. Even the tiny reticles on the 20mm's are clear of paint.
Sandy
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 02:58 PM UTC
Hi I have been using this method for 15 years plus and I place the can in a bowl of hand temp hot water for 15 minutes , then give a light shake and spray a very thin light coat on the model from twice the normal distance just to give a light dusting , return the can to the water and have a cup of coffee , repeat spraying at least twice bulding up the layers . The reason why it works is , the thinner is warm , the paint is diluted and sprays better , but best of all the model is at a different temp to the paint . this means the paint sticks far quicker and cools down , ie giving a far better smoother finish . cheers ian