I have ordered an Iwata HP-C Plus primarily for detail work. However, will the airbrush also be able to cover broad surfaces? Specifically, can I appy a base coat with it? I have been using a Badger 150 which just broke, and now I am wondering if I will need to replace it or if the HP-C will suffice for all jobs.

Thanks,

irish

Your Iwata should be fine. I use mine for basecoats, detailing, camo and clear coats with no problems at all.

Is it easy to alter the spray width on the Iwata, and if so how?

irish

It's all done depending on the amount of pressure you use to pull back the trigger. You might want to take some paint that you dont use a bunch of and practice. I switched from a cheap single action brush awhile back to my Iwata and the difference was incredible. Just takes some practice to get used to it.

"The HP-C has been replaced by the HP-C Plus.

"Plus" version of t he most versatile and popular professional brush. Double-action, gravity feed, highly dependable, low maintenance. Excellent atomization. Center mounted cup for quick color changes. Accepts a variety of spray media for fine line to background spraying. 0.3mm dia. fluid nozzle, Optional 0.2mm (change nozzle only) or 0.4mm (4 piece conversion), 1/3 oz. gravity feed fluid cup. Optional crown cap, pre-set handle. Spray width: hairline to 1"

As with any double action brush the further back you pull the trigger, the larger opening you create at the nozzle. The more paint will come out. The further away from the model the wider your pattern will be up to a max of 1 inch. Adjusting your air pressure at the regulator will also change your pattern. It really just a lot of practice getting to know your new airbrush. Also different thinning ratios for the various mediums used. Again it's all practice, and getting to know your new airbrush and what it can and can't do. Remember you can spray thinner paints at a lower pressure with a gravity feed brush. I use an HP-B for years mainly because I personally prefer the the small color cup, but if I were to spring for a new Iwata, I'd go for the HP-B Hi-Line with the MAC valve, just for my personal preference for a smaller cup, and more finite control of air at the nozzle.


The "pre-set" handle sets your pull back. Just the opposite of the little screw on top of your old Badger 150, which work the opposite way, and held the needle out a set distance. That advantage was the ability to pull the needle back fully to give a good blow and clear the nozzle. With a back limiter preset handle, you can't do this. (at least on the one preset handle brush I have you can't unless I loosen the pre-set limiter. which kind of defeats the purpose as then I need to reset it ! )

I guess you can do base coats on small items, but it really would take a long time with it, turning it into a marathon session on anything the size of a PIV or larger. My Badger 155 or 350 is much better suited for base coats in a fraction of the time. You can use HP-CP though for fine control in tight areas of an assembled model with its fine atomization such as around smoke dischargers or through vent work then a single action or larger nozle pen. You can get paint effectively through a PE grill without putting too much paint on it with the HP-CP. I would say its better suited to get all the nooks and crannies and small parts, do headlights, tool clamps, and coupolas first, then base coat with a larger coverage pen. You can definately do secondary overall shading coats with it though with no issues. The grav feed and fine nozle prefers much thinner mixes of paints and can take quite a while to cover an entire model from primer to base paint.

Thanks for all of the input.

Kevin your points are well taken. I may just purchase an Iwata Revolution CR for the base coats. It sells for only $65.00 at Great Models.

Thanks again,

irish

irish:

I just purchased the Iwata Revolution CR and I am very happy with it so far. It can do fine lines and is good for base coats. Now all I need is a paint booth

Welcome to the world of multiple airbrushes. :-)

The only brush I have is the Revolution. It has served me very well so far. When I get a little better at building and painting I will probably get a more sophisticated brush.

The Revolution and the HP-CP would make a pretty good duo that sould give years of service. You could get quick disonnect kits for both and pretty much not need any other airbrush. And no siphon feed bottles to clean

I have both the HP-C and the CR. Each will do 99% of what the other will do. If you want gloss coats for auto finishes, go with the CR. If you want detail work go with the HP-C. Both will do base coats for models. OK maybe the CR will finish the base coat 30 seconds faster than the HP-C but, so what. Is it worth the extra money to have both? Probably not. Stick with the HP-C and life will be wonderful. Cheers, Greg.

I don't think its that close. Its 55 degrees here and I paint on my deck. I was able to do all the road wheels and hull in sessions under 10 minutes each. Do one coat on each, rotate and final coats with the 155. So nothing was outside for more then 6 or 7 minutes. It took me 45 minutes of continuous work to paint just the turret with the HP-C the other day to get a full base coat. I even bounced the heat shut off on the compressor twice it was taking so long. I guess it you just have to try it to see if it works for you.

What do you think went wrong? My HP-C can paint a strip almost an inch wide so it can cover reasonably fast. I should be able to base coat a turret in less than two minutes. 20 to 25 lbs of air, a half cup of paint and away I go. If I am doing an intricate cammo pattern it would take longer as I would use less pressure (5 to 10 lbs) and would be doing detail work. Greg

What is the best method of cleaning an Iwata airbrush?

In my old Bagder 150, I predominantly use Tamiya acrylics, and would simply spray water to clean it. I know the Iwata company sells a solvent specifically for cleaining the airbrush, but I am not sure if its necessary.

Thanks,

irish

The seals will handle most anything. Windex is a favorite of mine for cleaning acrylics. Laquer thinner if you find old paint. I have a sonic jewelry cleaner I use to help simplify my cleaning. Greg

I use white spirit for enamels and clean water for acrylics, I fill the cup and turn up the air and blast it through,after a couple of seconds I'll stop and GENTLY block the nozzle with a wad of tissue and let rip again,this blows back into the cup and help to release the paint.
To finish, I'll spray a little "air brush cleaner" through it,job done
HTH
Andy

If your Badger airbrush broke send it back to Badger and they will repair it. Good luck with whatever you decide