I am afriad i might have just managed to screw myself over this time

I was trying to apply a wash to my panther G. I used the site that Screaming Eagle put out as advice, so i decided to put a layer of Tamiya Acrilic Flat base over the places where i planned to wash, to proctect the paint. I first tryed it on an old half destroyed harrier of mine so i thought ok, good its clesar and looks nice when washed. Unfortunatly, i did not wait for everything to dry before i went ahead to coat parts of my Panther. The flat base ended up drying white, not clear. I coated the white spots with a wash of enamal thinner and black. However, once this dryed, it was sill white. Many coats latter i decided that this was not going to work, so i tryed using an acrilic mix of thinner flat earth, thinking that the acrilic thinner would destroy the base coat. It only half worked in some places, so now i am stuck with a model that has certain glaring white spots where there should not be any.

If anyone has any ideas of what to do, they would be greatly appreciated

I wish I could give you advice for your current problem, but I think I should leave it to the more experienced modelers on the site so I don't cause you more problems than you have already .

I can offer a little advice for your next project. I don't know if you have an air brush or not, but if you do you could put a lair of future floor polish on the model before washing it. It will give you a high gloss finish that you will have to cover up with flat latter but will work great for washing. I don't know if it will work well without an airbrush either. Your current problem may have been caused by the flat base not being mixed well enough. I thought I read somewhere that can happen if it isn't mixed will. Hope this helps some. I just got back into modeling after a 15 year layoff and must admit I spend more time than I like fixing my mistakes, don't get discouraged though its just part learning

Scunge,

the problem is, that Tamiya's Flat Base is NOT a clear flat. It is meant to be mixed with gloss paints and act as flattening agent to turn them into flat paints. To get clear flat you must mix the flat base with Tamiya Clear Gloss or Future floor polish.
For washes a clear gloss undercoat is best, then overcoat with flat. (like Andrew mentioned).
You could try to strip the paint off and start over (especially with the Tamiya Panther G..... )
Oven cleaner or caustic soda will take the paint off but leave the plastic intact. Spray it on or dunk it in and leave it for a couple of hours, the paint should start to flake off. You can scrub off the rest with an old toothbrush. Works great for me.
HTH

a few hings first of,
1. Its a panther a not g, my bad. Have no idea why i thought it was a G.
2. i have covered it with many layerss of my failed washing mix, is there a way of just putting a clear gloss coat on and having it come out clear?
3 does the soda treatment destroy decals (not good)
4. what would you recomend as the cheapest and best gloss undercoat for future washes, any what is the best flat over coat?
5. if i apply a gloss under coat, does the flat over coat go on after or before the washing mix

scunge - i feel real bad after just reading your post, because I probably sparked
a fire in you by posting those articles. I can't help to feel a bit responsible & I'm sorry.
ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS USING MY EXPERIENCES
4) It's a matter of personal preference, but I use Testors Dullcote & Glosscote.
In my opinion there is not a better clear flat than Testors lacquer based Dullcote
as I stated above.

5) Again this is a matter of preference & what works for you. One way is:
a): you can apply the clear gloss over the finished paint.
b): add your wash.
c): apply clear flat
Now the important thing here is to allow the respective drying times as to what ever
kind of paint you have used between each step ( a, b, c ).

My method using enamels paints and then adding an enamel or oil wash, is that
I DON"T USE THESE PROTECTIVE CLEAR COATS, BECAUSE I USE PROPER
DRYING & CURING TIMES BETWEEN STEPS. ( a lot of modelers have a fear of this because they feel the solvent based wash will get under the enamel finish & lift it ).
NOT SO - if like I stated that a proper drying & curing time is given & respected.
If you need further help just email my me at my address, and I'll be happy to help you
out, and also try to fix that little " hazing problem" you have with the Panther.
Just let me know what type of paint your using ( Acrylic/ Enamel ).
- ralph