I usually paint using acrylics, but for the model I am doing now it lloks like I am going to have to use enamels for the best paint match. After I get the kit painted what is the best thing to use for washes. If I seal the model with a few coats of future would that work for a oil and white spirit wash? I do not want to get the kit painted and the wash destroy the paint job so any tips I can get are greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Salvo
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Enamels and washes
Salvo
Armed Forces Pacific, United States
Joined: August 14, 2005
KitMaker: 311 posts
Armorama: 182 posts
Joined: August 14, 2005
KitMaker: 311 posts
Armorama: 182 posts
Posted: Friday, November 24, 2006 - 07:27 AM UTC
Posted: Friday, November 24, 2006 - 07:47 AM UTC
If you paint a model with Humbrols, I recommend using their own brand thinner, as it works best in the air brush. Humbrols have a tendency to seperate quickly if its not the right thinner, and the pigments all gather at the bottom and clog the brush.
If humbrols have at least 24 hours drying time (48 hours if possible) you can add as much washes as you want using Humbrol thinner again, and it will not harm the base paint. Saves also on another layer. No need for a clear cote at all.
But now I have a query. If your paint match has to be so exact, that you canīt use your regular paint brand, will washes and weathering not change it anyway, resulting in straying from the original paint match?
In my opinion if you can get close enough with your regular brand, use it. Trying to paint match exactly on scale armor models is rather pointless, unless you want to build showroom models. But as you are enquiring about washes, this is not the case either.
If humbrols have at least 24 hours drying time (48 hours if possible) you can add as much washes as you want using Humbrol thinner again, and it will not harm the base paint. Saves also on another layer. No need for a clear cote at all.
But now I have a query. If your paint match has to be so exact, that you canīt use your regular paint brand, will washes and weathering not change it anyway, resulting in straying from the original paint match?
In my opinion if you can get close enough with your regular brand, use it. Trying to paint match exactly on scale armor models is rather pointless, unless you want to build showroom models. But as you are enquiring about washes, this is not the case either.
Posted: Friday, November 24, 2006 - 07:54 AM UTC
Hello Ryan
If you use enamels for the base coat,you should use a primer as a foundation for the paint to adhere or 'bite' into.Apply the enamel and wait three full days under optimum drying conditions before acoat of Future or a wash itself is applied.A longer wait is needed if it is cold and/or damp where the model is to dry.If you cannot dent mark the enamel with your thumbnail,then it is fully dry, and then you can apply washes using what ever you want or coat it with Future(which is acrylic,BTW) and then wash.
Patience is the key that pays the biggest dividends-
If you use enamels for the base coat,you should use a primer as a foundation for the paint to adhere or 'bite' into.Apply the enamel and wait three full days under optimum drying conditions before acoat of Future or a wash itself is applied.A longer wait is needed if it is cold and/or damp where the model is to dry.If you cannot dent mark the enamel with your thumbnail,then it is fully dry, and then you can apply washes using what ever you want or coat it with Future(which is acrylic,BTW) and then wash.
Patience is the key that pays the biggest dividends-
Grizzly
Arizona, United States
Joined: November 17, 2002
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 223 posts
Joined: November 17, 2002
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 223 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 09:18 PM UTC
Ok ready for my 2 cents?
I have recently found and used with great results the washes from Games Workshop's line of acrylic paint with no problems on enamel,etc.
You can use it straight from the bottle or if need be thin it a little with water.
They have black, brown and a chestnut brown as well as red.blue, green and yellow washes.
I have recently found and used with great results the washes from Games Workshop's line of acrylic paint with no problems on enamel,etc.
You can use it straight from the bottle or if need be thin it a little with water.
They have black, brown and a chestnut brown as well as red.blue, green and yellow washes.