Greetings to all,

I'm done with my first built after a break of about five years: it was the old Tamiya Sturmpanzer IV Brummbär (#3577). I had great fun all along building it. Yet what I'd like to do is ask you guys for some general wisdom on the building process, because there were moments of doubts during that journey, to put it mildly.

First of all, I'd like to get you views on cyanoacrylate glue. Maybe the brand I'm using is just drying too quickly, or it's too thin, or else, but I have to confess I had quite a rough time using the stuff. I eventually ended up putting lakes of the substance with no apparent result: I had the immense pleasure to see some parts falling off during painting process. In addition, I still have the feeling those parts glued with cyano can fall anytime. It doesn't seems too solid to me.

So, emm, what brand are you using ? and how do you go about this ? How do you manage to get a solid, neat, strong bond with cyano ? And how do you apply it to get better control ? I can't help but wonder how you can build all those superb multimedia kits and end up with a prepainted AFV kit that is clean, seems to hold all its parts rather well, and is just about as cool to look before as it is after painting.

Some advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also wondering about the filling/sanding process. I had to fill some joins, and I used an old tube of white squadron putty. Even though the results aren't bad, I had the distinct impression it was drying too fast. I mean, I know squadron putty is fast drying, but I could barely put the stuff on a spatula and speard it: it would then have dried a bit, enough to make a mess of a job.

Again, my question to you is: how do you go about filling ? What's the difference between green and white squadron putty ? Is there is such thing as a "best before" date on that ? I believe the tube I used was about five or six years old.

I read acetone can be used to get a more fluid putty that can me wipped, thus allowing to make cleaner job.

Well, sorry for those long questions. I guess I just need a thorough masterclass on the finer art of building models. Any and all help you can give this humble fellow modeller will be much appreciated. After this initial experience, I just realize there is a LOT to learn.

Cheers

JV

First off, cyanoacrylate (CA) glue should only be used to glue PE, resin, or other metal parts to each other and to plastic. If you are gluing styrene to styrene, standard model glues are best. I use liquid model glue exclusively. When using CA glue, it is best to use it very sparingly as well. It only takes a minute amount to make a solid bond. If you use too much, it wont cure properly and stays gooey.

For putty, if it is too old, it will dry up and not spread evenly. When that is depends. You just have to play it by ear. Squadron white putty is finer than green. Either will work for armor models though. The white is used more by aircraft modelers who are building in smaller scales and need a smoother surface. The putty can be thinned with acetone, lacquer thinner, or also liquid glue, among other solvent type fluids.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

JV,
I concur with Gino, save the CA for metal and resin. For plastic use either Testors Liquid Cement or Tamiya Thin or Extra Thin liquid. And be sure to hold the parts together for about 10-15 seconds for a tight bond. The Tamiya might be hard to find. It wasn't available here in the US early this year because Tamiya didn't have the required warnings on the label in English.
The Squadron putty can be thinned with the Testors liquid. Be sure to have adequate ventilation....... If you can't get the Testors, see if you can find a small can( pint) of methylethylketone (MEK). About the same as Testors and way cheaper. The MEK can also be used as plastic cement.
Keep on building to hone your skills, and have fun.

I gave up bottle glue for MEK years ago. The one major disadvantage is that it dries very quickly. Testors liquid glue is actually MEK with stuff added to slow down the dry time. I also agree, use with good ventilation! I often use CA glue as a seam filler.

Thanks for your reply folks,

Oops, sorry, I meant to say that I'm using Tamiya extra thin glue for styrene, and it works like a charm. OTOH, CA glue with metal parts (namely, scratchbuilt schürtzen frame, for example), is another ball game, and that's where I had most of my troubles. My problem is that the result isn't consistent. Some parts looks fairly well glued, while other are shaky and looks as they'll fall. I think I'll give a try to some glue that isn't so fast curing.

Best

JV

Hi Jean-Vincent,

First, let me say welcome back!! A lot has changed in our wonderful hobby, even if only in five years. I completely concur with the other guys on all suggestions. However, if you can find Tamiya putty instead of the Squadron stuff I highly recommend its use. That stuff is superb and sands beautifully. Yes, like most putties, it shrinks a bit as it dries but the end result is usually worth the try. In my early modeling days I was into the Squadron stuff but been using the Tamiya putty not almost exclusively for a few years. I've also heard that automotive (body) putty can be used successfully and that stuff does not shrink. I haven't tried it myself but I am seriosuly considering it.

Take care and happy modeling,

Rob

JV,

It sounds to me like you may want to try a thicker CA glue. I used the normal type for white metal to white metal and was also disappointed. But I find the thicker 'gap filling' or 'gel' types do a lot better. It also stays where you put it and doesn't run everywhere

All the best.

Chris

I would be very careful with the MEK.
I pint of that stuff would be hell to clean up if you spilled it...
Especially around a gas water heater or furnace...
Just my .02,

Shaun

I use an old Testors glue bottle to hold what I am using at the time, and keep the rest stored in a safe place.

Regarding superglue, definately dont use the standard thin stuff, get the thick or extra thick and use small amounts. I realy learned he hard way with the thin stuff For putty I had always used green putty but was never really happy with the results. My last few projects I have been using Tamiya putty and it works great. I dont use it straight out of the tube unless I have a realy big trench to fill. I squueze some out into a small plastic cup and then add acetone to it and mix. I apply it with a old fine paintbrush. For general use I use it a little thicker. I can also thin it out more and flow very small amounts around wire grab handles and other tiny "add ons" to the main armor plate. If it is thin enough it almost behaves like a wash and just circles the part. It may take a few applications to build up the amount I need but it does a real good job of "blending" those small parts into the main structure.

IndyCopper - thanks for the explanation of how you've been using the Tamiya putty. That's something I'll have to try out.

- Frank

Hey, thanks yet again guys. This is really helping a lot.

I think Chris hits it on the nail. Not only do I feel the CA glue I'm using is too thin, but it's so fast curing I realize I probably loose a good deal of it's power while getting the part I want to glue in place ! So to sum up, yeah, thicker and a tad slower curing glue might be the best choice from what I read here.

Interesting stuff too about putty. I can't wait to get back to it and try those suggestions. The list of project keeps growing !

Cheers

JV

The thing about CA glue is that it is an anarobic setting glue, which means it sets up from the lack of oxygen. You might have noticed that if you have a little puddle of thin CA on the bench it stays liquid until it starts to evaporate and gell-up. This usually takes hours. But if you lay something unto said puddle of CA, like I don't know, your palm for example, it bonds instantly! That is because when you (i) press down on the glue it removes the oxygen and the CA cures.

How I use the thin CA like on larger flat pieces is to draw it in using the "wicking" effect. Like when I glued large resin Zimmerit on a axis tank. The main section was glued with epoxy and the edges were glued using a toothpick to draw the liquid into the gap.

Hope this helps

cheers