Hi all

I know this might sound a bit stupid but what filler do people use for there model making?? I only ask as I have never used it and this trumpeter kit needs it (!!) and I wouldn't know what to really look for.

thanks in advance

Kev

I am now using Tamiya putty. I have used squadron green and white putty alot in the past and was never really satisfied with them. You can also use super glue, but I dont really care for that because it more difficult to sand than the other putties. My current technique is to use the Tamiya putty thinned with acetone. Just play with the ratio of acetone until you fiind your own preference. It also seems to make the putty dry a little faster too.

thank you very much indycopper much appreicated

IndyCopper's got a great suggestion and tips. Just a couple of other tricks - depending on the size and type of area that needs filled, you can use Liquid Paper/Whiteout/etc. Basically, that stuff that comes in a small bottle that you use to brush on written or typed mistakes. I use that for small depressions or thinner areas.

My personal favorite is Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty. It's a pre-thinned putty that works really well. A lot like what IndyCopper is suggesting, just done out of the bottle. You can also try Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 as well.

- Frank

I use Squadrons white putty alot to fill in ejector pin marks and small seams, but for larger seams I fine Milliput works wonders. Its a 2 part epoxy clay that is really easy to work with. It cleans with water and I've read where a touch of H2O even makes it bond better. The best parts is you can work it into the seam, then using a wet putty applicator blend it in so well that no sanding is really required. It also doesnt shrink while drying as much as Testors, Squadron, and the other normal putties. Theres a few different brands, I just use Milliput because its the first one I tried and loved it so much why change.

Model on,

Clair

For small gaps I use CA glue, and sometimes, I will smear a little ca in the joint, within seconds sand with the stick, and the plastic dust 'seals' the gap. One more thin coat of CA and its rock hard plastic filler. Only trick to CA is (like you should with anything), let the grit itself actually 'cut' the surface and not use pressure while sanding. Another good filler is Tamiya 'grey' filler or bondo spot putty works great too. I think Squadron putty dries too fast, shrinks and cracks to easilly, and tends to soften and overheat when sanding. Whatever you use, make sure the sand paper/stick is fresh and unclogged at all times and the filler is completely dry. I have completely built ships' hulls seams using only CA as the filler. I have never used putty fillers on an AFV kit other then to fix sink marks. If the gap is large(over 1/32"), then always use scrap plastic to fill the majority of the gap, or glue a scrap to the back of the hole/joint so its not the never-ending crevice of doom to fill.

For other small gaps, like at weld seams and parts joints(particularly on Dragon kits) and when a part like a hull mg blister has the welds around the parts edges-Use white glue mixed with talc(to thicken it-you can use quite a bit). Spread it around the joint, wet a Q-tip swab in your mouth, and immediately smooth down the joint. It will not obscure detail and makes a natural fillet, and can be done on a painted model as it will transmit light/color. It dries in minutes so move an inch or two at a time. Its used extensively on ship superstructure joints, where parts are often assembled after painting. You can also go back again or over other filling pin-holes after priming to touch-up. I see a lot of in progress pics with filler around very complicated details that could of been fixed in 30 sec with glue and talc and no sanding. You'll get used to the taste of baby powder....

And of course, minimize filling in the first place by prefitting parts, sometimes its one oddball speck of flash or tiny design error that can generate 4 or more seams to fill that could of been eliminated with a swipe of a #11...

As with most methods for filling, theres lots of different answers. Over the years, I have tried most of the tips above, and found most of them useful but dependant on the hole size.
A really good tip by kevinb120 is to dry fit first and make sure its not a small moulding error that is causing the gap .. sanding or scraping this away first, will save lots of time and possible heartache later.

If the mating sides are not 100% flush, adding cement to both sides and push together, so that some molten plastic squeezes out. This will also fill small seems. When hard, this can be scraped and sanded easily.

Bigger holes need to be filled by solid plastic ...some scrap or suitable profile cut from plastic sheet and then a suitable putty to hide.

Medium gaps, I fill with superglue first, and then putty to hide.

Small gaps in workable area I use Humbrol putty ... much more bite than squadron or tamiya. But this works for all 3. Place with an old knife. Then using acetone-free nail-polish remover (AFNPR) and cotton tops, clean away all the excess. All 3 putties can be thinned slightly with the AFNPR also for more workable time. All 3 can be thinned with cement for more bond. Leave over night to cure and sand to a smooth finish.

Small gaps in an area that is hard to work with, because of position or surrounding detail, I use milliput. Can be worked into place with toothpicks, and smoothed with a brush and water. Sands very easy as its softer than the plastic (when smoothed with water). Small shapes of sandpaper glued to the ends of small plastic profiles will get into very small areas, to sand smooth.

To hide small blemishes and seam lines, especially on figures, Mr. Surfacer 500 is excellent. Brush in position and any excess can be brushed away and/or can be smoothed with AFPNR. Dries quickly. Small grit sandpaper (400 - 800) will smooth out to a fine finish.

All other holes can be disguised by camo nettings, stowage, identification flags, mud or opended further to show damage to vehicle :-)

Thank you very much all, I had no idea that there is so much involved in the world of filler!! Taken onboard all you comments, so when I get around to actually getting some (missus depending!!!) I will give it a go.




I like that idea

I use Squadron white for larger areas. It's got a nice working time. It's easy to use.
The other version I use is Testors filler. Its got a shorter working time and is thinner. Because of this I use it for smaller areas.

Hi there,

I used Mr Hobby dissolved putty, very easy to apply and clean up. In fact, if you get the hang of it, you need minimum sanding for some filling jobs. Some of my other experiences:

pin ejection marks, esp deep ones: scrap thin (paper thin) plastic off unwanted spruces and paste over the holes, when dried fully, easy sanding off.

Small gaps: liquid putty. Applied using toothpicks and clean up using cotton buds. Sand, if required.

For larger gaps, like some of the folks mentioned above, I would use plastic and then liquid putty to touch up.

Hope this helps, but bear in mind that each of us may have their own preferred style of working, so it's all up to you to try them out and of course, have lots of fun.

Many Cheers!

For fast results, a gap-filling super glue, like Pacer Technologies Zap a Gap, works very well. Brush a tiny amount of accelerator on the area to be filled, then apply a drop of the glue (it has the consistency of honey). In seconds, it will set up and you can cut, file or sand it immediately. For about an hour, it will be slightly softer than styrene and is very workable. After that time, though, it becomes harder than styrene and becomes difficult to feather into the surrounding plastic. With lacquer-based putties, I have to set the part aside to dry and interrupt that part of the build, sometimes overnight with heavier applications. With Zap a Gap, I can build right away. It's also very tenacious. You can even use it to resculpt chipped edges of thin plastic or resin parts. Any other putty would crumble. I still use Tamiya Putty and Milliputt for some applications, but for basic filling, I like the speed of super glue.

For small gaps I use vinyl spackle by DAP.Drys fast ,smooths very fast and takes primer and any paints.On figs,it can be smooth finished with an artist's brush and water,then primed.
cheers!