I usually paint and then assemble the main vehicle parts. So, I do my road wheels then paint the hull then attach the assembles for example. Problem, the glue and the paint . I note that numerous folks (Epi and the fellow who just did the Puma 234/2 build) assemble the entire model then paint it. If this is correct, how do you paint the tools and water cans? If you mask them, what do you use?
thanks
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Painting an assembled model
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 12:57 AM UTC
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 05:50 PM UTC
This question and the lack of a response strikes me as quite amazing. As of this morning 37 people looked at this message, does anyone have a technique for painting assembled models?
thanks
thanks
houborg
Sonderjylland, Denmark
Joined: January 31, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 06:18 PM UTC
Hi Cavalry,
I think your post is a very good question, but the answer you seek is just as individual as there are members in this forum.
I think the lack of posts could be caused by the fact that everyone has their own approach at this - and also lots of times the building steps or the break down of the kit requires different approaches.
For my part I always build the major parts before painting (hull, turret etc) - this allows me to clean up my mess rewealed by the primer. I glue all delicate parts (cleaning rods, tarpaulins, tools etc..) to pieces of sprue and paint and drybrush (or whatever technique is required) these before attaching them. I mostly build modern armor and figures but the approach is the same. Open vehicles are - to me - always a nightmare because you are required to build, paint and mask during the building process - I guess I should do more open-top vehicles to get more practice and perhaps thats the whole point of my reply to you. The more you build the more you learn to "plan ahead" the different steps.
Please do not take my post the wrong way as I have no idea how long you have been modelling and I am not the greatest artist in this forum - I am merely trying to reply to your question.
Best regards from rainy Denmark
Morten
I think your post is a very good question, but the answer you seek is just as individual as there are members in this forum.
I think the lack of posts could be caused by the fact that everyone has their own approach at this - and also lots of times the building steps or the break down of the kit requires different approaches.
For my part I always build the major parts before painting (hull, turret etc) - this allows me to clean up my mess rewealed by the primer. I glue all delicate parts (cleaning rods, tarpaulins, tools etc..) to pieces of sprue and paint and drybrush (or whatever technique is required) these before attaching them. I mostly build modern armor and figures but the approach is the same. Open vehicles are - to me - always a nightmare because you are required to build, paint and mask during the building process - I guess I should do more open-top vehicles to get more practice and perhaps thats the whole point of my reply to you. The more you build the more you learn to "plan ahead" the different steps.
Please do not take my post the wrong way as I have no idea how long you have been modelling and I am not the greatest artist in this forum - I am merely trying to reply to your question.
Best regards from rainy Denmark
Morten
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 06:22 PM UTC
First off, you posted the question in the middle of the night on the east coast, when most people are sleeping. Relax and it will get answered.
Some people build the model completely and paint the smaller detail items while they are on the model, using a fine brush. Some use small pieces of paper slide under tools, etc. to protect the rest of the model from paint.
I use the method where I leave anything that doesn't get painted the hull color (tools, water cans, weapons, etc.) off and paint them separately. Once painted, then I carefully glue them on using superglue. Once weathered and dullcoted, any stray glue will not be seen.
Some people build the model completely and paint the smaller detail items while they are on the model, using a fine brush. Some use small pieces of paper slide under tools, etc. to protect the rest of the model from paint.
I use the method where I leave anything that doesn't get painted the hull color (tools, water cans, weapons, etc.) off and paint them separately. Once painted, then I carefully glue them on using superglue. Once weathered and dullcoted, any stray glue will not be seen.
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 06:25 PM UTC
What some folks here (including me), uses paper to mask out the painted hull. For example, I was to paint the shovel in my M4 Sherman, I slide a paper underneath it to prevent excess paint from going over the shovel and onto the hull. When the paint had dried, slide the paper off.
Other altenatives is to use liquid putty or the standard masking tape.
Other altenatives is to use liquid putty or the standard masking tape.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 07:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
First off, you posted the question in the middle of the night on the east coast, when most people are sleeping. Relax and it will get answered.
Some people build the model completely and paint the smaller detail items while they are on the model, using a fine brush. Some use small pieces of paper slide under tools, etc. to protect the rest of the model from paint.
I use the method where I leave anything that doesn't get painted the hull color (tools, water cans, weapons, etc.) off and paint them separately. Once painted, then I carefully glue them on using superglue. Once weathered and dullcoted, any stray glue will not be seen.
A modeler never sleeps!
marathon
Texas, United States
Joined: September 26, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 08:00 PM UTC
I tend to paint the fiddly bits (any external stowage, road wheels, side skirts, etc.) seperately from the tank hull and turret and attach later.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 08:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I tend to paint the fiddly bits (any external stowage, road wheels, side skirts, etc.) seperately from the tank hull and turret and attach later.
Thanks for the information, I just got up and see a fine response from a nice group of folks. Thanks again.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 08:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Cavalry,
I think your post is a very good question, but the answer you seek is just as individual as there are members in this forum.
I think the lack of posts could be caused by the fact that everyone has their own approach at this - and also lots of times the building steps or the break down of the kit requires different approaches.
For my part I always build the major parts before painting (hull, turret etc) - this allows me to clean up my mess rewealed by the primer. I glue all delicate parts (cleaning rods, tarpaulins, tools etc..) to pieces of sprue and paint and drybrush (or whatever technique is required) these before attaching them. I mostly build modern armor and figures but the approach is the same. Open vehicles are - to me - always a nightmare because you are required to build, paint and mask during the building process - I guess I should do more open-top vehicles to get more practice and perhaps thats the whole point of my reply to you. The more you build the more you learn to "plan ahead" the different steps.
Please do not take my post the wrong way as I have no idea how long you have been modelling and I am not the greatest artist in this forum - I am merely trying to reply to your question.
Best regards from rainy Denmark
Morten
Morten-- many thanks, stay dry.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 10:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I just got up and see a fine response from a nice group of folks.
I thought you didn't sleep???
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2006 - 11:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI just got up and see a fine response from a nice group of folks.
I thought you didn't sleep???
I catnap between models. By the way, Alabama is not on the West Coast of the US.....are you still at Irwin?
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Friday, December 08, 2006 - 07:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Alabama is not on the West Coast of the US.....are you still at Irwin?
Nope, that is why I said East coast above. I am now at Maxwell AFB, Montgomery , AL attending a school till the summer.
gbkirsch
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 04, 2005
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Posted: Friday, December 08, 2006 - 08:15 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I usually paint and then assemble the main vehicle parts. So, I do my road wheels then paint the hull then attach the assembles for example. Problem, the glue and the paint . I note that numerous folks (Epi and the fellow who just did the Puma 234/2 build) assemble the entire model then paint it. If this is correct, how do you paint the tools and water cans? If you mask them, what do you use?
thanks
What's the answer, they mask and spray the model assembled? I hand paint so it's way easier for me to paint and assemble as I go.
Gary
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 02:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI usually paint and then assemble the main vehicle parts. So, I do my road wheels then paint the hull then attach the assembles for example. Problem, the glue and the paint . I note that numerous folks (Epi and the fellow who just did the Puma 234/2 build) assemble the entire model then paint it. If this is correct, how do you paint the tools and water cans? If you mask them, what do you use?
thanks
What's the answer, they mask and spray the model assembled? I hand paint so it's way easier for me to paint and assemble as I go.
Gary
Gary-- I am not getting what I hoped we would see in the way of responses. If you take a look at the construction of the Puma or M-2 Half Track posted in the Feature section, you will note that the models are fully assembled then in the next series of pictures they are completed painted with detail items (water cans, shovels, brackets, etc.) The questions is how did you paint a water can in a bracket --see the Puma shots? I can understand the placement of the shovels and other tools with tacky glue after the main frame dried, but I am still fishing for answers on how one of these superb modelers does the detail I just mentioned.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 02:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAlabama is not on the West Coast of the US.....are you still at Irwin?
Nope, that is why I said East coast above. I am now at Maxwell AFB, Montgomery , AL attending a school till the summer.
Gino-- not the "grueling" Air War College! Heck, you should be pumping out models at a rate known to few other men. If you ever get sent to the Five Sided Building, please give me a call.
Stay safe, continue to do well
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 02:31 AM UTC
Personally, I always try & get as much assembled as possible before painting. In fact on a wheeled vehicle I even attach the wheels also, tyres are painted carefully in situ. The only thing I don't attach is the tracks on tanks, these I paint & weather seperately. The main problem with open vehicles is not small parts like tools, which I touch in with a small brush, but overspray onto the interior, where it is a different colour to the outside (not normally a problem with late WW2 German vehicles, as the interior is the same colour). This requires careful use of the airbrush & masking. The Sdkfz251 series specifically need to be left with the superstructure top seperate in order to access the small internal parts. To be honest, I've never considered painting jerry cans seperately, I've always worked on the premise that they would be issued in Dunkelgelb (standard late-war equipment colour), & oversprayed in situ on the vehicle when the pastes were applied by the crew. I suppose to do the odd one in Panzer grey might provide some contrast. I'm still unsure about the tools. The general consensus seems to be that the wooden parts should be in natural wood colour, & the metal gunmetal (with dry brushed bare metal or rust to suit), but I'm pretty sure that tools on British vehicles were/are painted in vehicle colour.
Posted: Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 03:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Personally, I always try & get as much assembled as possible before painting. In fact on a wheeled vehicle I even attach the wheels also, tyres are painted carefully in situ. The only thing I don't attach is the tracks on tanks, these I paint & weather seperately. ..........
....... I'm still unsure about the tools. The general consensus seems to be that the wooden parts should be in natural wood colour, & the metal gunmetal (with dry brushed bare metal or rust to suit), but I'm pretty sure that tools on British vehicles were/are painted in vehicle colour.
When I paint a tank, I have 2 assemblies, hull (with all running gear and tracks) and the turret. Im another who has problem with applying too much glue, and find it easier to paint everything on the model. Its true what they say, if the eye can see it, it can be painted. Starting with a dark colour, is a good idea, because anything that cannot be painted properly, appears to be shadow or dirt. On wheeled vehicles, I do keep the wheels seperate though. I mostly build WW2, so all tools are kept natural, not because they were, but more to add contrast to the finished vehicle.
But as has been said previously, everybody has their own preference for as many reasons. Theres no right or wrong way ... just what works for you.
The model below is two assemblies only .. hull and turret.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 10:54 PM UTC
Frank/Steve-- great input. we really appreciate your taking the time to provide us a detailed explanationof your techniques.
thanks again.
thanks again.
gbkirsch
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 04, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 04:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Frank/Steve-- great input. we really appreciate your taking the time to provide us a detailed explanationof your techniques.
thanks again.
Thanks for posting this question. I too have been curious how this is done.
Gary
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2006 - 11:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The model below is two assemblies only .. hull and turret.
And very nice it is too, Frank. Is this the old Italaeri one? If so it's an excellent job! I like the Zimmerit, what is it, Cavalier, Eduard or home brewed?
tuffners3169
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 21, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 11:26 PM UTC
Good quistion i got lots of advice from it.
Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 12:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Is this the old Italaeri one? If so it's an excellent job! I like the Zimmerit, what is it, Cavalier, Eduard or home brewed?
Hi Steve. Thanks for the compliments. Yes, its the Italeri model, with Tamiya grills being the only update to the build. This was the first time I ever used etched parts. Very easy kit to build and indy tracks included. As for the zimmerit question ... none of the above. The hull actually comes with zimmerit alreay moulded on, and then there are 2 pieces of moulded zimmerit to surround the turret. Italeris Panther A has similar zimmerit included in the kit!
I bought this kit because I had never worked with zimmerit before and thought this was an easy introduction (it was), and also to see how decals would sit on it. I used the microsol/microset system. I was very happy with this build. It was my test run for Tamiya´s Tiger 1E late with cavalier zimmerit and Aber etch (which is still not started 3 years later )
A close up of the zimmerit for ya .. with kit decals. The microsol and microset, I use now everytime ... you can see below how well they work.
After I finish my Panther A late, Im going to build another model and do a step by step. This has come up so many times, it really needs an article.
Cavalry
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2006 - 02:00 AM UTC
Frank-- your workmanship is superb! Cannot wait to read the article.
Posted: Monday, December 18, 2006 - 02:26 AM UTC
I've seen some of Frank's stuff first person and the pictures, however good they are, don't do his work justice. He is truely an artist, he'll deny this, just don't listen to him...
As for how I do things is I make things as far as I can to be able to paint over or hide the mistakes I have made. I try to get as much bang for the buck, if I can get away with painting a whole model, I'll attempt it. Usually saving tools and smaller bits and pieces untill everything is painted and finished.
As for how I do things is I make things as far as I can to be able to paint over or hide the mistakes I have made. I try to get as much bang for the buck, if I can get away with painting a whole model, I'll attempt it. Usually saving tools and smaller bits and pieces untill everything is painted and finished.