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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Primer for photo-etch
Stillhawk
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California, United States
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 111 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 07:50 PM UTC
As I haltingly stagger toward the point of applying paint to my DML Pz IV C I need to know what to prime it with. I only used the p.e. parts supplied in the kit, but to me that was a lot. I'll be finishing it in gray with Tamiya acrylics, and the only thing I've learned so far about painting p.e. parts is that paint applied directly to them won't adhere.
Cavalry
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Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
KitMaker: 121 posts
Armorama: 101 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 09:25 PM UTC
Mike-- I am becoming comfortable with building the complete model minus the tools and searchlight type items. I put these on with white tacky glue afterwards. The photoetch is already applied. Then paint her flat black. I let it dry for two days. I fire up the air brush and apply the base coat (OD, panzer gray, panzer yellow). It's pretty neat the way the base of flat black resembles gunpowder residue around the barrel and fill in little dark corners. I do not put a specific primer on the phot etched stuff other than my flat black base. Weathering and wash follow the drying of the pattern paint job. I am into the M-51 Sherman now and will put some shots on the site when I get to the painiting stage.
Hope this helps
Stillhawk
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California, United States
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 111 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 11:57 PM UTC
Hi Cavalry:

Okay. So if I understand what you're saying, go ahead and attach at least the lower part of the clasps with CA glue, spray the whole thing (in my case a base coat of Tamiya NATO Black followed by successively lighter coats of gray), then attach the tools and, I assume, the movable portion of the clasps, with white glue. My question, then, would be whether the paint on the p.e. parts will rub off easily if not primed. Thanks for the info and please correct me if I'm wrong.

Cavalry
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Virginia, United States
Joined: October 30, 2006
KitMaker: 121 posts
Armorama: 101 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 12:52 AM UTC
Mike-- the black paint coat acts as the primer...I have never had the paint come off or fail to adhere to the pe using this technique.
Gunfighter
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: September 03, 2004
KitMaker: 743 posts
Armorama: 274 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 01:24 AM UTC
Mike,

I follow the same process as Cavalry, except I usually use a gel-type CA to attach the parts. Basically, build up everything I can, including PE and prime the whole thing with Tamiya Nato Black. Haven't had a problem at all.

From my experiences, the Tamiya paints seem to do well as primers, including PE parts.

- Frank
jlmurc
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 29, 2005
KitMaker: 1,267 posts
Armorama: 969 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 03:29 AM UTC
Although in the past I have often used Tamiya Acrylic neat over PE parts, when I was building my Dragon Flak 36, I did find that Vallejo Paints were less forgiving and you could knock ot off unprimed PE.

A friend bought me a bottle of Gunze Mr Metal Primer and I tried that and it certainly seems to work very well, in the instances that I have both tried it and used it. I am not sure what it is, but possibly something like a colourless nail varnish.

John
Dirk-Danger
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 06, 2006
KitMaker: 252 posts
Armorama: 33 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 03:41 AM UTC
Hi,

I always spray my kits with a can of Halfords grey car self-etching primer. Works a teeat every time and I havn't found a paint yet that reacts or will not stick to it.

Lee
RobinCarpenter
Vendor
CAMMETT
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 01:20 PM UTC
Hi Michael
I agree with the other posts no problems with adhesion on small parts with paint going directly onto them, we produce alot of etch brass for large scale warships and in this case it really needs an etch primer because of the large areas,
we are producing a single pack etch primer especially for brass which we will be able to use on small scale subjects also,
keep an eye on the forum we will anounce it when it is ready.
Regards Robin
Stillhawk
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California, United States
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 111 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 09:38 PM UTC
Thank you all for the information. I suppose that I'll just go ahead and use the paints I've got without primer. I have one further question though regarding the attachment of the tools and upper parts of the clasps: considering that on the one hand no adhesive works very well when applied over paint, and on the other that removing the paint from the already attached lower parts of the clasps seems almost certain to occasionally break the @&#%^$* little buggers, which way is the lesser of the two evils?

P.S. I'll watch for your product Robin.
TacFireGuru
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Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Friday, December 15, 2006 - 05:02 AM UTC
Michael,

Seeing as you are here in the states; a can of "sandable" gray auto primer works well. I've used it a lot on one of my models (actually the first and only one I've done this to) and it really brings out the model (and the flaws that may be there). The brand I used is Rust-Oleum Automobile Primer, Light Gray Primer.

HTH,

Mike
Stillhawk
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California, United States
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 111 posts
Posted: Friday, December 15, 2006 - 07:07 PM UTC
Thanks Mike. As with everything else, I suppose I need to try out different techniques. I'll pick up a can and try it.
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