Hello everyone,
I was wondering if it was okay to use the Model Master Enamel Paints on small 1/35 scale figures or bigger. I know that Valejo paints are probably the best, but I just got about 80 enamel paints on ebay for about 30$ and I want to use them on my 1/35 scale figures. Maybe I need to thin them out first?? Any tips would be great thanks.
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
Model Master Enamel Paints
modelmaker9
Joined: April 23, 2006
KitMaker: 125 posts
Armorama: 98 posts
KitMaker: 125 posts
Armorama: 98 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 06:40 AM UTC
Phant3
Ohio, United States
Joined: November 28, 2006
KitMaker: 36 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Joined: November 28, 2006
KitMaker: 36 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 08:22 AM UTC
Hi MM9,
Sure its fine to use any enamels to paint figures. I've done it from 72nd on up to 35th scale. The thing with enamels is thier fast drying time, which makes it harder to blend them into one another for shadows and such. Thinning helps but make them too thin and the coverage suffers.
I'd try them out on some old scrap plastic first to see each bottles properties, no telling how old they are. Adjust thinner ratio until they flow nicely from your brush but still cover the area with color.
I find artist oils better suited to figures because of the slow drying time myself, which makes blending a breeze.
Model on,
Clair
Sure its fine to use any enamels to paint figures. I've done it from 72nd on up to 35th scale. The thing with enamels is thier fast drying time, which makes it harder to blend them into one another for shadows and such. Thinning helps but make them too thin and the coverage suffers.
I'd try them out on some old scrap plastic first to see each bottles properties, no telling how old they are. Adjust thinner ratio until they flow nicely from your brush but still cover the area with color.
I find artist oils better suited to figures because of the slow drying time myself, which makes blending a breeze.
Model on,
Clair
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 08:47 AM UTC
HI. I use Humbrol enamels for painting figures and details on armor. (I only use acrylics for airbrushing.) Vallejo paints are acrylic and are a different medium and use slightly different techniques. But excellent results can be got from enamels as well. Check out the figure articles by Mark Bannerman on Missing Links or his recent book in the osprey series .. modelling panzer crew men of the Heer.
I have only had 2 bottles of MM paints ... rubber and rust ... and although they were excellent colours, they turned to jelly and were useless inside 6 months. They also took a long time to dry. So I stick with Humbrol, but for all intense purposes, are similar to MM.
Your figure will need to be primed first with an aerosol can. Enamels need this as they dont paint, straight onto plastic, very well. I use a hobby primer from a local auto shop, but there are loads to choose from .. citadel do a great primer for example. For thinning I use humbrols own enamel thinner and this is very mild. But any mild white spirit would do.
Its better to use a thinned paint and add several coats to get a good cover instead of thick paint trying to cover at once.
Good brushes are an advantage. 5/0 for details and 3/0 for general use, are those I use most. If you have a seperate jar of thinner for cleaning your brushes, dont use the same for matt and gloss and metallics. Everything will end up shiny.
Thats the basics .. there are loads of good articles on Armorama for painting and further techniques. Good luck.
I have only had 2 bottles of MM paints ... rubber and rust ... and although they were excellent colours, they turned to jelly and were useless inside 6 months. They also took a long time to dry. So I stick with Humbrol, but for all intense purposes, are similar to MM.
Your figure will need to be primed first with an aerosol can. Enamels need this as they dont paint, straight onto plastic, very well. I use a hobby primer from a local auto shop, but there are loads to choose from .. citadel do a great primer for example. For thinning I use humbrols own enamel thinner and this is very mild. But any mild white spirit would do.
Its better to use a thinned paint and add several coats to get a good cover instead of thick paint trying to cover at once.
Good brushes are an advantage. 5/0 for details and 3/0 for general use, are those I use most. If you have a seperate jar of thinner for cleaning your brushes, dont use the same for matt and gloss and metallics. Everything will end up shiny.
Thats the basics .. there are loads of good articles on Armorama for painting and further techniques. Good luck.
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 08:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The thing with enamels is thier fast drying time, ....
.....I find artist oils better suited to figures because of the slow drying time myself, which makes blending a breeze.
Hi Clair. Just to add to your points. Compared to oils, enamels do have a much faster drying time, but there is a lot more drying time than with acrylics. Oils can be mixed with enamels to increase the work time and make them cover better, if needed.
Its all a matter of preference really and what works for each individual modeller.
210cav
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 - 06:46 PM UTC
Frank-- great run down. I also use MM and found they dry out quickly especially their flat black. I am going to investigate the V brand you noted.
thanks again
DJ
thanks again
DJ