What's the cost comparison between methods? I have very shallow pockets, unfortunately.

Time is money too, it only took about 4 hours to fully install the Atak set, seal the gaps with white glue/talc and prime it again....

I like the atak because the definitiion is extremely sharp, particularly on the mantlet and completely random...You can mimic 'damage' on the zim easilly by tearing away sections before gluing or scraping on the resin parts...This one is almost factory fresh though.

These are all great ideas. I am currently working on a late Tiger I and had never used any type of zimmerit on a kit before. I was advised to use a photo-etch set from Eduard and, quite honestly, am not impressed by the way it looks. It really lacks the realism that I was looking for. It is really disappointing because I had such great plans for this tank to be placed in a late war diorama. I have been reading alot about using Tamiya putty for the zimmerit, but am really unsure of myself applying it and possibly ruining another kit. How is the putty applied smoothly and without it looking caked on and uneven?

Semper Fi!

SSgt Mack

i have the atak zimmerit, how do you get it off the paper? i tried a scalpel, but it didn't work, and the pattern seels to break out of the paper, but the shiny backing won't come off, or is this rook missin out on something?

reb

Hi Sam, I say go for it and model your own Zimm, I've used Tamiya polyyester putty, Aves magic scult and Milliput and have to say they all work well. One nice thing about the Aves is the fact that it has a decent working time and can be easily removed if you muddle it.
One trick I've seen is using squadron putty and the textured cap as a roller. Not sure if its the right size for the king tiger but its an option to look into.
You'll be very proud when you finish your first zimm job, and the hardest part is the first smear.
Good luck and cheers!