Is there an alternative to DML M4A4 indy tracks??? The kit # is 6035 which Grumpyoldman gave to me for my birthday.
I've decide not to use the resin cullen hedge cutter and PE which will be for another project..
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Alternative to DML M4A4 Indy tracks?
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 04:35 AM UTC
Sabot
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 04:54 AM UTC
AFV Club made a set of vinyl tracks for the extended body M4A4. MP models also made a set of extenstions to lengthen the Tamiya M4A3 tracks to fit an M4A4 body.
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 04:57 AM UTC
thanks.
spongya
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 09:14 AM UTC
Fruil tracks are perfect.
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 09:17 AM UTC
anything but more link by link tracks
Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 04:11 PM UTC
Hi,
Using rhe AFV tracks you need to correct the lower hull lenght of the kit - the first M4A4 from DRAGON have the lower hull too long.
Here you have the M4A4 FAQ that gives you the needed correction.
HTH
Using rhe AFV tracks you need to correct the lower hull lenght of the kit - the first M4A4 from DRAGON have the lower hull too long.
Here you have the M4A4 FAQ that gives you the needed correction.
HTH
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 04:28 AM UTC
how many mm of plastic do I remove from the bottom part of the tank ( from where it becomes red) and the mm of plastic I remove from the sides(again where the red is)???????????
I hope I get this right cuz I've already glued 1 part on the wrong way and I cant remove it.
I just dont want to guess how far back I cut from the start of the red.
I hope I get this right cuz I've already glued 1 part on the wrong way and I cant remove it.
I just dont want to guess how far back I cut from the start of the red.
hogarth
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 08:11 AM UTC
Cut until you are even with those access hatches on the bottom of the hull.
Also, AFV club now makes 2 types of tracks for the extended body....the T49 3 bar cleat and the T62 Commonwealth Chevron type. I've used one set of each (one on the kit you are doing, one on a Vc Firefly), and they worked great.
Rob
Also, AFV club now makes 2 types of tracks for the extended body....the T49 3 bar cleat and the T62 Commonwealth Chevron type. I've used one set of each (one on the kit you are doing, one on a Vc Firefly), and they worked great.
Rob
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 08:22 AM UTC
so I dont have to shorten it with those?????
hogarth
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 05:28 PM UTC
You STILL have to shorten the lower hull. You wouldn't be shortening it so regular tracks can fit. You're shortening it b/c it's just way too long. The lower hull, even after shortening it, will still be longer than any other Sherman variant. DML just went a little crazy with the length the first time around.
Rob
Rob
shado67
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Posted: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 02:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You STILL have to shorten the lower hull. You wouldn't be shortening it so regular tracks can fit. You're shortening it b/c it's just way too long. The lower hull, even after shortening it, will still be longer than any other Sherman variant. DML just went a little crazy with the length the first time around.
Rob
Dragon has released several Fireflies......is the 6182 kit (most recent release) of the Vc Firefly still too long? Did the AFV tracks fir this kit correctly?
hogarth
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Posted: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 05:09 AM UTC
6182 is good in the hull length. I used the AFV club T62 tracks for extended body for it, and they worked fine. I've also heard, but can't confirm until I get mine next week, that the most recent re-release of 6035 M4A4 has this corrected hull and also the correct horizontal return roller arm suspension. My kit will arrive next week, so I'll be able to check.
One trick. When doing your tank, if you're using the AFV club tracks, leave the SPROCKET off. Shorten its pin. Then, when it's time to put the tracks on, put them over everything (idler, return rollers, bogie wheels), then fit the sprocket inside the length of track and use the sprocket to stretch the track.....you've shortened the sprocket pin a bit to make it easier to then get it into the final drive holes. Worked for me...in fact, I never even had to glue the sprockets on...the tracks just keep them there. Just make sure the "faces" of the sprockets are glued on well, as otherwise the "rubber band" style tracks will probably rip them off the cylinder part of the sprocket wheel.
Rob
One trick. When doing your tank, if you're using the AFV club tracks, leave the SPROCKET off. Shorten its pin. Then, when it's time to put the tracks on, put them over everything (idler, return rollers, bogie wheels), then fit the sprocket inside the length of track and use the sprocket to stretch the track.....you've shortened the sprocket pin a bit to make it easier to then get it into the final drive holes. Worked for me...in fact, I never even had to glue the sprockets on...the tracks just keep them there. Just make sure the "faces" of the sprockets are glued on well, as otherwise the "rubber band" style tracks will probably rip them off the cylinder part of the sprocket wheel.
Rob
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 05:24 AM UTC
I cant even glue the sprockets onto the sprocket wheel thing
jlmurc
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Posted: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 06:45 AM UTC
Luke,
It really is worth biting the bullet and getting to grips with the single link tracks. They do look really daunting attached to the sprue, but if you just take your time and build them in segments starting with the sprocket, they really go together quite easily. For building and stopping them flying about, attach a strip of masking tape sticky side up on your desk. Then you can lay them easily and get them straight. Once you have the run length you need, apply a little liquid cement to the joins, then let them set for about 10 minutes, then lift them off the tape and you will find them glued, but flexible enough to form around the sprocket, with a short length under the first road wheel and to rest on the first return [top] roller.
Then do it again with enought to complete the top run to link with the first and fold halfway around the idler. Finally complete the track. Either glue together if painting on the vehicle or keep them in the correct track left and right and paint them and join together on the tank to complete the job.
Just take your time and they become less daunting.
Its an idea anyway for you to contemplate.
John
It really is worth biting the bullet and getting to grips with the single link tracks. They do look really daunting attached to the sprue, but if you just take your time and build them in segments starting with the sprocket, they really go together quite easily. For building and stopping them flying about, attach a strip of masking tape sticky side up on your desk. Then you can lay them easily and get them straight. Once you have the run length you need, apply a little liquid cement to the joins, then let them set for about 10 minutes, then lift them off the tape and you will find them glued, but flexible enough to form around the sprocket, with a short length under the first road wheel and to rest on the first return [top] roller.
Then do it again with enought to complete the top run to link with the first and fold halfway around the idler. Finally complete the track. Either glue together if painting on the vehicle or keep them in the correct track left and right and paint them and join together on the tank to complete the job.
Just take your time and they become less daunting.
Its an idea anyway for you to contemplate.
John