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Italeri Paladin Instruction Sheet Questions
osjohnm
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Western Cape, South Africa
Joined: May 07, 2006
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 121 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 04, 2007 - 06:48 PM UTC
Hi all

I'm hoping that those of you who've built this kit can give me some guidance with regards to the instructions.

Step 1-2 - attaching of the wheels, from what I can see the wheels won't be moveable. correct?
Can I add the wheels and sprockets right at the end of the build?

Decaling - how does the US flag decal get attached to the antenna?

I read somewhere (here) that the antenna length is 2 ¼ inches, correct?

Thanks
John
RobinNilsson
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 04, 2007 - 07:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi all

I'm hoping that those of you who've built this kit can give me some guidance with regards to the instructions.

Step 1-2 - attaching of the wheels, from what I can see the wheels won't be moveable. correct?
Can I add the wheels and sprockets right at the end of the build?

....
Thanks
John



Based on old memories of Italeris other versions of M109 I can
confirm that the suspension is fixed and the wheels will not move.
If you want to show the vehicle standing on uneven ground you will
have to modify the swingarms for some of the wheels.

I would recommend adding the wheels and sprockets at the end
of the build. Paint them separately as well as the tracks (there are
or at least used to be replacement tracks from Skybow but I don't
know if they can still be found somewhere).
Do the weathering (covering in mud) when the tracks are in position.

Add the roadwheels first and hold the sprocket and idler inside the
track loop and slide the whole package into position, this is easier
than forcing the track "teeth" around the sprocket and idler afterwards.
Before finally putting the track in position select one of the track teeth
that will be directly over the first roadwheel ( or maybe it is the second,
check pictures of the real thing) and use a sewing needle to pull an
ordinary black or dark brown sewing thread through the guide tooth.
When the track is in position this thread is tied around the axle of the
first (or second) road wheel between the two halves of the wheel.
Secure the knot with superglue.
This allows you to pull the track down towards the road wheel to get
the proper "hanging" of the track. You don't have to pull it all the way
down, I think it is enough if half of guide tooth is "inside" the road wheel.
If you don't get it down it will be pushing up against the overhanging hull.
/ Robin
osjohnm
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Western Cape, South Africa
Joined: May 07, 2006
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 121 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 04:02 PM UTC
Thanks for the tips and assistance
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