I am starting a new project as was wondering if there are any Aftermarket kits available to add to the build-up. I am starting to build a M-901 ITV and using the Italeri M-901 Hammerhead and using for the vehicle a M-113A1 Tamiya kit. I am looking for the interior part of the M-901. Looking for the following:
1). any kit/s available for the interior part of the M-901 such as stowage racks for the TOW missile tubes, interior turret parts, radios that mount on shelves, interior lights, commanders seat and drop down crew seats-
2). also looking for this particular color; EARTH YELLOW FS30257. I know Testors Model Master doesn't make this color-

I also just finished three kits, but for some reason, I can't download the pics to this site. The completed kits are:
(a). M-728 CEV in the Winter US & Europe MERDEC scheme
(b). M-925A1 GUN TRUCK in the Iraq sand color scheme
(c). M-816 WRECKER (Real Models) in the NATO three tone
if anyone is interested in seeing the pics, just drop me a line along with your email address, and I'll send them out. Again, thanks guys-
SSG M.S. Kaufman

I don't know of any AM interior for it. It isn't hard to scratch-build /convert one from a standard M113 interior though. I did one for my M981 FISTV, which is basically the same vehicle, without the TOW missiles and added optics. The interior is basically a standard M113 with the gunner's seat/platform under the TOW turret. Here's a poor pic of my M981 interior (sorry, old digicam).



Sabot has lots of interior shots of an M901 as well in his motorpool here at Armorama too.

Good luck.

Here's my gallery of M901 ITV interior photos. They may be of some help in your scratch building endeavors. http://photos.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php/cat/16920

Hey guys, thanks, and Sabot- Fantastic pics thanks and I have been on the web searching for interior photos- what a waist of time-
SSG M.S. Kaufman

If I don' t remember completely wrong I think the Italeri kit
has confused the outer sides of the arms supporting the
actual "head" of the Hammerhead. Left and right should be
swapped but that will require rebuilding the little "feet" which
meet the supports on the hull roof when the head is in the stowed
position. The supports are back-to-front when the sides are
swapped. It's been some years since I built the Italeri kit so
please check references before building it, there was something
strange about it anyway ....

This image shows the left side of the head, front is facing RIGHT in the image
http://data.primeportal.net/apc/truhe/m901/m901_02_of_25.jpg


This image shows the right hand side of the head , front is facing LEFT in the image
http://data.primeportal.net/apc/truhe/m901/m901_13_of_25.jpg

Left and right defined as standing on top of the head looking at the "target".
Note that the axle which the head pivots around ends with a motor housing??
on one side and a flat plate on the other.

/ Robin

I'm not sure about the Italeri kit, is the Academy FIST-V a better starting base? I know I have an old Verlinden hammerhead kit someone gave me, but to be honest, I've never taken a close look at it either.

I did build the Academy kit as well but I don't remember if it had
the same problems as the Italeri kit. It might just be that I only
had to correct the Italeri one. If you haven't bought either kit I would
sugegst getting the Academy one and check references. If it turns
out that it needs fixing then you're no worse off than if you had chosen
the one from Italeri.
I added two links to my first answer showing real thing to compare
with the offending parts in the Italeri kit.
Images are published here:
http://www.primeportal.net/apc/truhe/m901_walk.htm

The Verlinden conversion has problems of its own, both correctness
and fit/shrinkage of parts so I wouldn't recommend it with a clear
conscience.
If you do go for the Verlinden conversion I'll give you a fri building tip:
Getting the supports on the roof in the correct position is a right pain
in the backside, they fall over unless glued down and once glued
with CA they won't move.
Solution: Get some thin styrene sheet, file or sand off the thickness of the sheet from the bottom of the supports, glue a small piece of styrene to the support and trim to correct shape.
Now the styrene-bottomed support can be glued with ordinary styrene
glue to the roof of the vehicle and remain adjustable for a little while.
This technique can be used in many other joins as well.

/ Robin