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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
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Washing my jeep
RATPATROL
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: February 26, 2003
KitMaker: 14 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 27, 2003 - 07:40 PM UTC
Hi guy's!!! i have just finished a willy's jeep and i was wondering if i could get a little help?I have a base coat of model master olive drab enamel,and i'm not sure of the steps i need to take for the wash. is now the time to put on my decals? or do i put future on first,or is it opposite?do i put future on first let it dry and then decals, then wash? I have been out of the hobby for a good number of years,but i"m back in full tilt, but my weathering techniques are a little rusty,so to speak.And what would be the best colors to use for the wash?any help on this topic would be great. thanks
Roadkill
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Antwerpen, Belgium
Joined: June 09, 2002
KitMaker: 2,029 posts
Armorama: 822 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 27, 2003 - 08:09 PM UTC
Hello RATPATROL,

This is my basic work method, it can change, depending on the techniques I try or the type of finish I want to give to a model but this gives you a idea:

Primer ----- Basecoat ----- Future ----- Decals ----- Future ----- Wash ----- Dry brushing ----- Dull Coat ----- Pastels.

Hope this helps.

Halfyank
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 01, 2003
KitMaker: 5,221 posts
Armorama: 1,245 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 12:47 AM UTC
Ronny thank you for your reply to Ratpatrol. In my recent RRB somebody mentioned that my decals were showing 'silvering.' I had applied only one coat of future. I see from your response that you put down two coats, one before and one after the decals. I'm going to try that on my next model.

slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 01:56 AM UTC
Halfyank. Permission to interject??

Make sure you have a nice smooth surface for those decals. Glossy by pure nature isn't enough, the smooth surface is the key.
Another decal tip is to cut away as much of the excess decal film as possible. Cut right down to the color of the decal. That will reduce the amount of film that can even be exposed to silvering.
Just my two cents worth - hope it helps.
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 02:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

And what would be the best colors to use for the wash?



The other responses have been accurate. As to the color, black, paynes gray, van dyke brown, burnt umber would all work. For many years, the only wash I ever used was black.
penpen
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Hauts-de-Seine, France
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 929 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 03:01 AM UTC
Usualy, the best bet for a wash is any kind of dark or very dark brown.
As future is acrylics based, you'd better use an enamel or artist oils based wash
RATPATROL
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: February 26, 2003
KitMaker: 14 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 03:37 AM UTC
Thanks everybody!! for some reason my post from last night went through,i was having dsl connection trouble last night and i did'nt see that i was posted already this morning, sorry for wasting space.
cfbush2000
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North Dakota, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 1,796 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Posted: Friday, February 28, 2003 - 01:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks everybody!! for some reason my post from last night went through,i was having dsl connection trouble last night and i did'nt see that i was posted already this morning, sorry for wasting space.


I hate it when that happens. Don't worry, it's no big deal.
And welcome to Armorama.
Chuck
RATPATROL
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: February 26, 2003
KitMaker: 14 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 01, 2003 - 12:54 PM UTC
Thanks chuck!
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