Hi guy's!!! just want to say thanks again,what is the best way to put on future,air brush,paint.With an air brush can you thin it and clean tools with isopropyl alcohol?

If airbrushing Future you do not need to thin it. I believe that doing that would probably mess up your model since Future is already pretty thin as it is.

For me, on tanks the best way to apply Future is with a brush. On airplanes I think it looks better applied with the airbrush.

I was experimenting last summer with applying the decals direclty on the Future, before it dries. It worked pretty well on the flat surface of a tank. As the Future dries it pulls the decals into the surface. After the decal was in place I once again brushed some Future on top of it. It was sure less time consuming than first allowing the Future to dry and than do the decals and another coat of Future.

Cheers,

CDT Reimund Manneck
U.S. Army ROTC

Hey little rat

Don't thin it, just use it full strength!
I would not (personally) recommend brushing future, always use a airbrush for this. The purpose is to get a fine layer to protect your paintwork, that is also why I prefer to cover the whole model with future instead of just the place where the decals will be. Future also works as a barrier when you wash your model, it protects your basecoat.

Here are some uses for Future:

Future Floor Wax Uses

Little did the people at S.C. Johnson Wax realize when they were manufacturing Future Floor Wax what a great modeling aid they were producing. It has more applications for our hobby than any other non-modeling product I can think of. Here's what I came up with:

* Future is great for use as a clear coat preparation for decals and as a sealer. When used in preparation for decals, it should be sprayed on full strength. Put on enough coats until you have a uniform, smooth, glossy finish. When sealing metallic finishes, it should be thinned at least 50%. Either water or alcohol can be used to thin Future.
* Future can be used for making mud puddles or standing water when doing a diorama. It's not as thick as epoxy, but it's easier to work with. And, it doesn't take nearly as long to dry as resin type clear mediums. Pastel powders can also be mixed with it to create grime, mud, yuck, or whatever.
* Use Future for instrument dial faces. It may take many more applications than epoxy, but you don't get the domed effect you do with epoxy, and Future is clearer.
* You can add talcum powder to Future to make a quick drying seam filler that is hard, but sands easily.
* After final polishing, canopies and windshields can be dipped in Future to give them a fantastic glass-like appearance.
* Canopies and windshields can be glued in place using Future with no worries of marring or damaging the surface of the clear parts.
* If you want to create your own shades of transparent colors, food coloring can be mixed with Future for the desired effect. If you mess up, you haven't invested as much money as you would combining clear paints.
* Use Future to revive those old decals that came with the kit in the bottom of a box in the garage. Once Future has dried water will not effect it, but it does sometime have weird reactions with some of the decal setting solutions. Normally it is only a temporary period of discoloration but you might want to experiment a little beforehand.
* If you do your own mold making and resin casting, Future is a great clear coat to use on your masters or molds to ensure a clean casting. You can either brush it or spray it on. The clay you use to make your master mold can be used over and over again, as the Future does not seem to harm it.
* After finishing your Sculpey base for a ship diorama or display coat it with Future for a truly wet look.
* Future can be mixed with some flat water-based acrylic paints to create a gloss or semi-gloss finish. Experiment with small amounts before mixing up a big batch. The amount of Future added will determine the amount of sheen.

One word of warning: when you use future in a AB, then make sure that is dos NOT DRY OUT, clean your AB immediately, use water with a drop of wash detergent for this.

Agree with the other posts... Don't thin. This just prolongs the coating process by forcing you to do many coats (and AB cleans btw.)

I have not brushed over the entire surface of a model but got good results with a post wash bruch coat on the decals...

Keith

Only an addition to Roadkill's extensive post: you can use Future fro putting in place PE parts. It's thinner than cyanoacrilate, and gives you plenty of time to set them in the proper position before drying. Once dried the adhesion is almost tough ad the one achieved with cyano!!!

hi, Sounds real nice wat you can do with it.
but does anybody know where i can get it
what does it looks like in europe?? and wich brand do i need???

In the states you can find it nearly in every supermarket or hardware store, in Europe I know that you can find it in the UK where is marketed under the name of "Klear". The product is exactly the same, but the shape of the bottle and the label. The producer is Johnson.

80a2

This is in Duttch, sorry fellows:

Dit is al eens eerder besproken in de Nederlandstalige forum, neem maar eens een kijkje op de volgende link

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/3837&page=1

Many many thanks ,will go to the supermarket to get me a bottle !!!

Thank you!!!!! everybody , the information you have given me will be very helpful.