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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Track Links
Tiger_Tony
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: March 08, 2002
KitMaker: 12 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 10:06 PM UTC
I have yet to do a kit with individual track links.whats the opinion on them? easy to assemble? more realistic?
Kencelot
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Florida, United States
Joined: December 27, 2001
KitMaker: 4,268 posts
Armorama: 2,804 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 10:12 PM UTC
Well Tony, they're certainly not easy (at least from my experience) . But definetly are way better than the "rubber-band" tracks that come with most kits. They look quite realistic.

Overall, they are well worth the extra effort.
herberta
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Canada
Joined: March 06, 2002
KitMaker: 939 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 11:46 PM UTC
Hi Tony

The indy links in most DML kits are easy to assemble, but Oh so tedious!! You have to spend hours trimming them off the sprues, cleaning up seams and ejector pin marks, then there's the assembly! Nonetheless, for tanks with dead tracks, they look great! You always get extra links in DML kits, so you can add extras to the hull or whatever.

There are a few techniques used for assembly, but I find the most important thing is to make some kind of jig to hold the tracks in alignment. I use Testors liquid glue for assembly, and it really only takes a half hour to put a run of tracks together once you've cleaned up the links.

For vehicles with live tracks, like a Sherman, where there's no sag in the upper runs of links, I can't be bothered to use indy links (yet).

Try the indy links, you'll like 'em!!

Cheers
Andy
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Friday, March 29, 2002 - 12:06 AM UTC
To help reduce the boredom of assembling track links, I build them in "runs". I built a straight flat run for the bottom, and the two diagonal gaps between the drive sprocket and road wheel and the idler wheel and road wheel. For a tank with live track or support rollers, I also do a run for the top. If the track will have a sag, I will place the run along the top before the glue sets and then induce sag with my finger. I then play connect the dots with individual links around the sprocket, idler wheel and road wheels.

I use a metal 6" ruler found in any hardware store (mine's a Craftsman) to make sure the tracks are assembled straight. The ruler also helps ensure the track links are evenly spaced.
Tiger1
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United States
Joined: February 17, 2002
KitMaker: 171 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 11:22 PM UTC
From one Tiger to the Next, I can say that Model Kasten makes the best individaul link tracks. Model Kasten makes both workable and non workable tracks. Workable tracks are made using a pins to connect the track links and lay on the road wheels and return rollers with a natural sag. Non workable tracks are like those found in some Tamiya and DML kits. They must be glued (I use Model Masters Liquid cement with metal applicator) one at a time a be put on the model before they set. Another great set of individual track links are made by Fruilmodelismo. They are made from real metal and can be rusted using a model railroad rust solution. They are easy to assemble and are just as pricey as Model Kasten. The weight of these tracks give the most natural sag. I will use, at times, DML's individual track links. But in my opinion, Model Kasten's workable tracks are the best.
Bravo-Comm
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Texas, United States
Joined: March 20, 2002
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 11:40 PM UTC
If you don't mind me putting in my two cents worth on the subject. I never really cared for the DML Indiv-Links like you are discussing. Guess I'm just too lazy. HAVE alway's prefered the rubber tracks instead. They are just easier for me to work with. Perhaps someday I might actually try them on one of my kit's.


Dagger-1
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