Most of my models are of German and Russian vehicles so I mostly use the Fruilmodel tracks on them. Nothing is better in my opinion. Anyway, I usually give thse tracks a basic coat of automobile red oxide prmier before doing any weathering on them, as I have always felt that being all metal, the tracks on the real vehicles would have a basic coat of rust all over them when they became exposed to the elemets. After this I do various washings and dry brushings to simulate dirt, new rust, worn areas, mud, etc. and mount them.
Here lately I have heard that tracks should be painted a black color to simulate oxidation on them before doing any weathering. Which of these is the right, or more accurate way to go, or does it matter that much in the long run? Just curious.
Thanks, sgirty
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Confsed on painting tracks.
sgirty
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
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Joined: February 12, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 - 04:25 AM UTC
Desert-Fox
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: October 22, 2002
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Joined: October 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 - 05:23 AM UTC
I tend to spray mine with automobile Black from Halfords (UK Auto shop) and then when dry, wash with a rad rust colour to get in the nooks and crannies, then wash black and drybrush silver, then scrape away any paint from the most raised parts of the track..looks good to me!
BroAbrams
Washington, United States
Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
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Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
Armorama: 1,081 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 - 05:28 AM UTC
I think you should look around at some crane equipment at construction yards near your home, and then replicate those tracks however works. I spray with flat brown (MM 1954 Light Earth) then use a combination of rust colored paint, and several shades of pastels to work up a hodge podge of colors on them, and finally use a pencil to highlight the wear areas of metal.The only problem I have is that I don't have any green pastel chalks, so doing grass stains is difficult.
Rob
Rob
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 - 08:31 AM UTC
I do like this
a) prime as you wish
b) give a coat of Testors Rust enamel
c) a wash with black oils to ensure that the recesses look dark and the averall rust is "broken"
d) drybrush with several metal colors
a) prime as you wish
b) give a coat of Testors Rust enamel
c) a wash with black oils to ensure that the recesses look dark and the averall rust is "broken"
d) drybrush with several metal colors
csch
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
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Joined: December 27, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 03:33 AM UTC
As in most of the cases you will find that there are diferent ways of doing the same thing. In this one my method is as follows:
- Prime of black mate enamel.
- Coat of Gun Metal.
- Aply oils colours to get the dark rust appearance.
- Oil wash with a mix of orange-red to get the new rust appearance
- Wash with dark earth enamel.
- Drybrushing with silver or steel
- Prime of black mate enamel.
- Coat of Gun Metal.
- Aply oils colours to get the dark rust appearance.
- Oil wash with a mix of orange-red to get the new rust appearance
- Wash with dark earth enamel.
- Drybrushing with silver or steel
Selrach
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 04, 2003
KitMaker: 466 posts
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Joined: January 04, 2003
KitMaker: 466 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 - 03:51 AM UTC
I tend to prime with a base of black, then highlight the steel parts with a drybrushing of silver or steel then wash with a rust of raw sennia. Then I add weathering.