The earlier topic of Glue got me thinking.

In the Compenduim Modelling Manual "Basic Military Modelling" there is a mention of a technique for surface irregularities.

It states that liquid glue was used to produce surface irregularities on the surfaces of a sherman. It is not a large bit of text, just a small mention in the middle of the book. There are 3 shermans displayed in the book.

Does anybody use this technique and if so how do they do it?

Cheers
Jamie

Yup. It can be used to replicate a cast texture. All you do is brush liquid cement onto the plastic. Let it set for a second or two, then stipple it with a short, stiff brush. The stippling will pull at the plastic and impart a rough texture on it. You can also do it with a finger as opposed to a brush as well. Once you are satisfied with the amount of texture(the longer or more times you stipple it, the rougher it gets), go over one last time with the liquid cement to slightly smooth off the edges. It looks great when done.

I'll give it a go, thanks Gino

Just one thing, if using your finger will it leave fingerprint marks?

Jamie

Yes, it leaves fingerprints marks when you use your fingers. I tried that technique on a Chieftain turret, and I didn´t like how it ended. Better try the stiff brush, that one works pretty well. Of course, it´s just my experience...

Cheers

try using a pan scourer as well it works wonders for me

Cheers for the advice

What areas would you cover with glue? I'm thinking that this is a technique that could be over used. Has anyone ever gone overboard and ruined a model with this technique?

Jamie

I use Pactra liquid cement in the glass botle.I spread about 1 sq inch,(25.4 mm for cross ponders).I let it set,then use the same brush that comes in the bottle to dab at it,in a perpedicular direction.Once it dries,I can go back with fine sand paper and reduce the roughness.You can't over do it,just sand down farther.

I disagree. If you vary the direction of your finger, and don't put it down the same each time, you will have no fingerprint marks.

You apply it only to areas of cast steel. Rolled plate is smoother, and sheet metal smoother still, so avoid those areas. The nylon brushes sold by Testors are ideal for texturing--just stab the bristles into the softened plastic. Just doa couple of squre inches at a time. If you use a fairly "hot" liquid cement, it will be hard in a few seconds and you can do the next area. Slower setting cements (like Testors liquid cement) stay workable longer, but there isn't any real advantage to this. Lacquer thinner (or flying model aircraft Dope thinner) will also work.
Textures on real castings vary, so look at photos of real vehicles for guidance. You can leave the very rough surface as is for really rough castings (like some Soviet WW2 types), but usually you will want to sand the surface very lightly with 400 grit paper. This leaves irregular flat areas and random pitting.

Thankyou all for the helpfull advice

I'll give it a bash and practice the technique on a test model when I get home.

Practice makes perfect and thats what I will do.

Cheers again

Jamie