I've got an interesting dilemmia. I'm finishing up Dragon's Tiger I Mid Production (Kit #7251) and I was getting ready to put on the tracks. Lo and behold, the things are too long by quite a bit. Track sag is one thing, but this takes the cake!
Any suggestions or tips for properly bringing the length down to size? Being DS, regular modeling glue will hold them, but I'm not sure if the join will be good enough.
I knew this build was going too easy!
- Frank
Hosted by Darren Baker
How to shorten DS tracks?
Gunfighter
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: September 03, 2004
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Joined: September 03, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 05:55 AM UTC
Mojo
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 11, 2003
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Joined: January 11, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 06:53 AM UTC
Frank,
Rubber band tracks or indies? Indies, just remove a link and then Ca glue them when finished painting and weathering. Rubber bands, shorten as required then CA glue again or staples.. Saw that in some instructions a long while back.. Dont know how well it would work though.. I would think you would need a pretty substantial staple ...Hope it helps..
Dave
Rubber band tracks or indies? Indies, just remove a link and then Ca glue them when finished painting and weathering. Rubber bands, shorten as required then CA glue again or staples.. Saw that in some instructions a long while back.. Dont know how well it would work though.. I would think you would need a pretty substantial staple ...Hope it helps..
Dave
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 12:05 PM UTC
If it is too much to "hide" with normal track sag I would suggest cutting them and gluing back together. Since the tracks are supposed to be gluable I would place the join either on the top of the sprocket wheel where it is mostly hidden by the "mudflap" or under one of the road wheels. If the track is glued to the other road wheels there shouldn't be
any stress on the join but if you are worried about this then take a sewing thread and needle and sew up the join.
The advantage with having the join on the sprocket is that the teeth will assist in holding the joint together. If covered with a bit of "dirt" and weathering it will be practically invisible.
/ Robin
any stress on the join but if you are worried about this then take a sewing thread and needle and sew up the join.
The advantage with having the join on the sprocket is that the teeth will assist in holding the joint together. If covered with a bit of "dirt" and weathering it will be practically invisible.
/ Robin
Gunfighter
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: September 03, 2004
KitMaker: 743 posts
Armorama: 274 posts
Joined: September 03, 2004
KitMaker: 743 posts
Armorama: 274 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 05:34 PM UTC
Thanks for the replies!
Dave - they're Dragon's newer DS formula tracks, so basically rubber band type. I've used staples on 1/35 stuff, especially when it can be hidden under fenders, etc. I had a small stapler around somewhere. Maybe I can make it work under a road wheel. Lords knows there enough of 'em on German armor.
Robin - I figured cutting & glueing would be my primary option. Thanks for the suggestion about using the sprocket. I was looking at the tracks closely last night and separating them cleanly is going to be a challenge. Not much room to work in this scale. Now if this was 1/35, I'd just get replacements from another manufacturer.
- Frank
Dave - they're Dragon's newer DS formula tracks, so basically rubber band type. I've used staples on 1/35 stuff, especially when it can be hidden under fenders, etc. I had a small stapler around somewhere. Maybe I can make it work under a road wheel. Lords knows there enough of 'em on German armor.
Robin - I figured cutting & glueing would be my primary option. Thanks for the suggestion about using the sprocket. I was looking at the tracks closely last night and separating them cleanly is going to be a challenge. Not much room to work in this scale. Now if this was 1/35, I'd just get replacements from another manufacturer.
- Frank