I've been building models for some time. Started as a kid, but after a while I got other interests. Then, while in the Army, i started building again. I recently finished my first diorama. The tank is a US Marine M60 A1 with reactive armor, built out of the box from the Tamiya kit.
The diorama is built on styrofoam glued to the wooden base, and then the styrofoam was covered with alabaster plaster and spray painted before I glued on very fine sand.
I know it ain't much compared to some of the stuff in here, but for me it is a start. My second diorama will soon be finished, and I see a lot of progress from this to the second.
Any tips for improving or comments are most welcome.
Hosted by Darren Baker
My first diorama
grevlingen
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: April 01, 2007
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 2 posts
Joined: April 01, 2007
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 2 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2007 - 09:51 PM UTC
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2007 - 09:57 PM UTC
Good clean build overall. Groundwork looks good, too.
The most imnportant thing is to get the stuff off the ERA plates. Those are designed to blow out from the tank if hit with a shell. That would send any stowage flying.
Also, on the spare track, either paint in or better yet, drill out the lug nut holes.
Looks like you could use another coat of flat. the decals looks a bit shiny.
IMHO, The two cables wiould look better a dark metal, including the ends.
The most imnportant thing is to get the stuff off the ERA plates. Those are designed to blow out from the tank if hit with a shell. That would send any stowage flying.
Also, on the spare track, either paint in or better yet, drill out the lug nut holes.
Looks like you could use another coat of flat. the decals looks a bit shiny.
IMHO, The two cables wiould look better a dark metal, including the ends.
grevlingen
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: April 01, 2007
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 2 posts
Joined: April 01, 2007
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 2 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2007 - 11:13 PM UTC
Thank you so much for the reply with advice.
I didn't know the ERA plates are designed to blow out, but on future models you can be sure that no goods will be stored on them
Also on future models I will drill out the lug nut holes, and make sure that the paint don't plug them again (haven't drilled them out at all in this model).
Also agree completely on the wire, looking at lots of othermodels. I have another set with the same kind of wires, and I'll go for darker tones there, if possible I will see if I can repaint them on this model as well, if it doesn't smuge too much over on the bodywork (don't remember how I fastened the cables at the moment).
The decals are rather shiny, it's a problem I have with several of my models as I probably don't cut them close enough to the pattern so that a lot of blank foil also gets glued on to the model.
Is there a smart way to cover it once it is fastened to the model? I use acrylics paint and brushes to paint my models, and tips will be very welcome.
I didn't know the ERA plates are designed to blow out, but on future models you can be sure that no goods will be stored on them
Also on future models I will drill out the lug nut holes, and make sure that the paint don't plug them again (haven't drilled them out at all in this model).
Also agree completely on the wire, looking at lots of othermodels. I have another set with the same kind of wires, and I'll go for darker tones there, if possible I will see if I can repaint them on this model as well, if it doesn't smuge too much over on the bodywork (don't remember how I fastened the cables at the moment).
The decals are rather shiny, it's a problem I have with several of my models as I probably don't cut them close enough to the pattern so that a lot of blank foil also gets glued on to the model.
Is there a smart way to cover it once it is fastened to the model? I use acrylics paint and brushes to paint my models, and tips will be very welcome.
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2007 - 11:49 PM UTC
Get some clear flat finish, PollyScale is a good one. Mix it thouroughly and cover the entire model. Very well shaken Model Master Dullcoat in a rattel can will work, too, but it is temperamental. Don't try to brush MM Dullcoat over an acrylic finish. It will be streaky at best and will damage the finish at worst.
NOTE: DO NOT use Tamiya "Flat Base" for a clear flat. This is to be mixed with other colors and not to be used by itself. the net and other modellers who've ben burned by this are the only way to find out about this without ruining a model.
You should also be applying clear gloss at least where the decals go, but idealy over the entire model before applying decals. This will gi ve a very smooth surface for the decals and will not allow tiny bubbles to be trapped under the carrier film which will result in silvering.
NOTE: DO NOT use Tamiya "Flat Base" for a clear flat. This is to be mixed with other colors and not to be used by itself. the net and other modellers who've ben burned by this are the only way to find out about this without ruining a model.
You should also be applying clear gloss at least where the decals go, but idealy over the entire model before applying decals. This will gi ve a very smooth surface for the decals and will not allow tiny bubbles to be trapped under the carrier film which will result in silvering.