Hi guys.

I was wondering if any of you had some tips on a problem I have right now. I'm using an airbrush for the first time for a paintjob on a Panther A. I'm using Tamiya acrylic paints and tamiya thinner.

The other day, I laid down a coat of black. It went on quite nicely and I was happy that I didn't make any real mistakes. However, the mistakes came soon enough. As I was cleaning my airbrush with alcohol, some of it splattered onto my new paintjob. It was very little, but it is quite noticable in a few spots. I thought that the second coat of dark yellow would be enough to cover it up. Unfortantely, no matter how many coats I apply, the alcohol spots remain.

Is there any way I can fix this mistake? Should I just cover it up with something later on in the weather process?

THanks

Is it in a place where you could place a bit of mud?

Hey Selrach...

No unfortunately, most of it is not. There are some drop marks around the driver and radio operator hatches and some on the right sloped side. Unfortunately it's too high for mud probably, unless these guys were driving through rivers. However, it's supposed to be a winter tank

I wish my webcam had the fidelity to pick up these marks but it can't. The marks are strange since you can really only see them at certain angles to the light. When I put a fresh coat of paint over them, they disappear, but when the paint dries, those rings still show up. Maybe a light pigment like white will get rid of it. I just hope it doesn't emphasize it.

Alcohol will make the spots you are talking about if splashed onto your acrylic finish.

The marks happen when the alcohol evaporates, or even eats the paint beneath it.

Why not give another black coat? This should cause the spots to go away and not show throught the lighter dark yellow.

I have also found that a gloss Future coat will get rid of any white marks that the alcohol leaves.

I also use alcohol to thin my Tamiya painst, so have seen what you are talking about first hand. You do need to be careful not to splash raw alcohol around! I know!

Steve

I always remove my model from the area before I begin cleaning my airbrush. Here's a few ideas for covering it up if paint won't work (have you tried spraying enamels over top, by the way?):

1) Draping a Nazi flag over top for air identification purposes. Unfortunately, I think this was usual placed around the turret.

2) Foliage for camouflage. For a winter dio, the foliage would have to be dead, without leaves.

3) Make up a scene where figures could be sitting or standing over top of the spots.

4) Flip the model around and have it look like it was blown sky high #:-)

Nic

At the very worst, sand the spots down, hit the area with the ame black paint.

Just curious, why black to start? Priming with gray or white is more common and will show flaws nicely. It's always easier to cover a light color with a dark color than the other way around.

Just sand with very fine sandpaper where the spots are. It can help if your sandpaper can be used "wet" (pass it in water just before sanding) because used thah you get a smoother and uniform finish. Once done you can give another light coat of black. This time remember to put away the model as the other fellas suggested. Good luck!

Thanks guys. All of those suggestions are good.

I think I will try to wet sand those spots and reapply paint in those areas. Originally, I started off with a black base becuase I wanted a more grimy dirt look on my paintjob. I didn't want a spic and span tank

I'll let you guys know how it works after I my reattempt later this week.

Lots of people use black basecoats. It is one way of pre-shading. When you go over with the real base colour (eg. dark yellow) you can make some areas, like around panels or hatches, darker by spraying less there. You can also get neat effects on road wheels using the same technique. Usually I prime with grey primer, but I've tried the black method a few times as well. It does kind of depend on the look you are after.

Nic