Just returned to modelling after many years break. My first project is DML 1/35 Panther A. I m going to do the Zimmerit with Muliput. I was wondering roughly how thick the putty should be on the model?

Huw
It's basically like "how long is a piece of string?". Some vehicles seem to have a very heavy coating, while others the hull of the tank shows through in places. The best thing is if you are making a specific vehicle to get as many photos as you can & judge it for yourself. I was going to give you a very useful site on Zimmerit, but when I checked it just now using my saved favourite, it had disappeared & been replaced by links to "panthers in Florida" & Panzer clothing. It was @ http://tankomania.com/data/e/27p4.html. Anyone know where it went?
Here's a couple of photos of a Tiger I did. I put the putty (Squadron Green stuff) on as thin as I could, & used an old junior hacksaw blade to put the ridges in. I'm not putting this forward as best practice, just to give you some idea what effect this produces.


& this is what it looks like painted (pre-weather etc):

As thin as possible.

I use Tamiya polyester putty with their zimm rakes.

Here's a link to a pic of a Tiger II in Hungary. The spot at upper right from the main gun mantlet has no zimm, for comparison. (Remove xxx)
http://www.shift.sk/military/sifoner/img/tiger_9.jpgxxx

Tricky.

As said, for certain applications go as thin as possible, about the only thin standing out being the ridges.

HOWEVER!

Several nice factory shots of a Panther-A show a fairly liberal coating of Zimmerit with a blotchy applied pattern.

Also, there seems to be a difference between which factory finished the Panther.

As 5 different factories were involved, the pattern and thickness varied.

Henschel, as shows on their Tiger-E and B, applied a neat and rather thin layer in the factory. Panthers from this plant should have a similar coating.

Other factories would apply a thicker coating and a less neat pattern.

In scale, as thin as possible, IMHO...

Shaun

I agree... If you want to keep it to scale, it has to be "wafer thin".

huw,
check out my photos, maybe they can help or give an idea

respectfuly yours

nick morgan

Thanks to all of you for the replies on this. I think I will get some more practice in before I attempt the real thing. I will post some pictures when I start. Again any comments will be great.
The last time I did a model with Zimmerit (Tamiya Tiger 1) about 25 years ago. I spent 3 days with a scalpel and a candle scribing the pattern in!

Huw

Of course, if you want to avoid all the mess and bother, you could use Cavalier Zimmerit sheets. They're an Australian company (insert flag waving here), and make packs for most, if not all German tanks of WW2. They certainly have a set for the DML Panther A (in fact I'll be getting one myself soon for my Panther A), and basically all you have to do is cut out the preformed sections and glue them on (2 pack epoxy is best).

They also include pre-coated mantlet, rear storage boxes and kugelblende to replace the kit ones and so that you don't have to do them yourself. The sets retail herer for about $25, which translates to about 10 pounds.

Have fun

Rob

I've seen a German design diagram where they allowed 10mm for the Zimmerrit.

David

Atak also makes resin zimmerit sheets, see:
http://www.atakmodel.com.pl/index_eng.htm

Hi to everyone.
Have made a start on my Panther A doing the Zimmerit. Please see My Photos' for the turret. Any comments

The side of the turret looks OK to me, but without wishing to be negative, I'd say the rear looks a little heavy. You could try sanding it down a bit with fine emery & see what it looks like then.

I used Tamiya putty and cut an old credit card into strips that I used to apply it and make the pattern.

I have pictures of the brummbar at aberdeen has some zimmeritt still on it if anybody wants to see them

I had the same problem with the hard resin parts,such as the front glacias plate for the Dragon Panther A Late.I sanded the edges,but not good enough.I took it for granted that it was correct. The next day it stuck out like a sore thumb. I worked with it, as a result the weld line was damaged,all small details on the upper hull were screwed. I had to buy another kit,and order another Atak set. Man this killed me big time. I think sanding the edges better and also the middle part of the plate,will solve the problem. What an expensive lesson.