I’m currently building Dragon’s M1A1 AIM which makes use of their new “magic track” system and quite frankly it isn’t going very well. This is my first venture away from the vinyl “band” style tracks so I really don’t know what I’m doing. My first approach was to snap all the individual links together in one continuous length while attempting to “wrap” them around the tanks suspension before gluing them in place. But this hasn’t worked out very well as they keep falling apart at inopportune times due to their own weight and delicate angles etc. Is there another technique I should be using to work with these tracks or do I just need a lighter touch and more patience? I hope my question makes sense. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,
Noah

Noah-- I can appreciate your frustration. Other will chime in, but I found the best way is to use either Testor or Tamiya green cap glue to secure the blocks. It is slow acting and gives you time to correct alignment. Do not asemble the entire series of track blocks. Rather, work in say ten block segments. I usually start with the lower track section. They are easiest since they bear the weight of the model. While this segment is drying, take individual tracks and glue them around the drive sprocket. Put the drive sprocket aside and run another piece for the top level between the drive sprocket and the idler wheel. Put that aside to dry. Repeat the process used on the drive sprocket on the idler wheel. Put her to dry. Work the other side of the tank in the same manner. I let it sit for 24 hours then start with placing the drive sprocket back on the vehicle and glueing track blocks to cover the distance between the lower track and the drive . Do the same thing on the top and for the idler. One additional word. I would paint my track before putting it back on the tank.
Hope this helps.
Other guys will let you know how they do it.
Patience, looks great when finished.
DJ

DJ's approach is *exactly* what I did - although I admit to being a bit impatient at times and tried working with the track before they fully set up, which did result in some frustration (and some choice words), but that was only my own impatience. It was also my first time *not* working with rubber-band tracks.

Since the side skirts covered the upper portion of the track runs, I omitted those parts of the tracks on my Dragon AIM Abrams, choosing only to install what would be visible (unless you actually turn the tank upside down). for a bit easier installation.

Noah,
I had the same problem when I built, but not yet completed, a DML Panther II. A trick is to tape a ruler to your work table as a form to build the track against to ensure that you have them straight. Use DJ's advice of using Testors liquid glue (slower drying time) and build in sections.

In my case, I had a bad angle induced into one of my track runs and I thought, that the center guides were/are too small so I gave up on the Magic Track and used AFV Club Bigfoot/T-158 track. They look great on the model and they are flexible. so removing them to paint is simple. They will add another $15-20 to your build budget and they are a bit fiddly to deal with but IMO worth the additional cost and trouble.

John

Bob's article from this very website:

http://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84

Shaun

Yup, follow the "make tracks" feature above! They are actually pretty easy with the AIM being nice and blocky and easy to keep square, not to mention you don't even have to do the entire run with the skirts

Thanks to everyone who responded and especially for the article – it has proven very helpful.

Noah

After trying different things, for sure Testers (old time) liquid cement gives you the time needed to work them into place and after taking the proper shape, will harden just fine. Hope this helps

I think almost everyone has discovered this method. The problem with most folks is they are initially under the impression that the individual links are snap-tite workable track and get dismayed when it falls apart on them. I prefer the old style testors liquid glue. I build in 10 to 15 piece sections and then brush it on letting it soak within all the joints. And then like everyone else i add the sections onto the road wheels, hoping that the final linkup comes out right (I always join at the bottom as it kind of disguises misfits). I have only given up once and that was with those 3 piece horrors in the Dragon 251 halftrack series