Still working on my T-35 and I need some help with my weld beads. In the past I have used the Testors tube glue, made a small bead and the used a toothpick to make it look like welds. Did not come out bad but I can not fine a fine nozzel to use to do it agian. I tried the miliput way but could not get the milliput to stick well to the model. I would like to do the way with the thin narrow plastic strip and weld mark in with a soldering iron. My problem is no one in my area that I can find has a narrow low temp soldering iron. I have also ask for the phyograph (spelling wrong) and no one knows what I an talking about .Does anyone know where on the web? Any please I can get one or a narrow low temp iron? I live in Indy IN if anyone knows a local source. Thanks for your help.

Scott,
I use A+B epoxy like milliput or epoxy sculpt. I roll little spagetti worms, lay them in where u want them. patt with a wet finger, and add texture w/ a potters/sculpture knife. If you have a question of how this looks check out my TAMS tank in my gallery. All the turret weld beads were done this way. Good luck

Another alternative technique is to use gel-type superglue. Apply two strips of tape to define the edges of the weld. Apply a bead of the gel to the gap in the tape, then texture it with the tip of an X-Acto knife. Pull up the tape, then spray the bead with superglue accelerator to freeze the texture. Good for "liquid" looking welds, and it won't shrink like tube cement.
Epoxy putty works well for funkier, grainier welds as sometimes seen on field repairs and such.
The X-Acto Hot Knife is a soldering iron with an alternative brass collet to hold a standard X-acto knife blade. You can find them in craft stores. If you wrap the metal barrel with heavy insulating tape, it's possible to hold it nearer the tip, allowing for finer work. A rheostat to control the temperature is also handy, though not an absolute necessity (it won't ignite styrene). A wood burning tool will also work, though you'll probably have to file down the tip to something small enough to be useful in modeling work. (also available in craft stores).
The pyrogravure is a French made hot-tool product that already has the needle tip, but I doubt you'll find them anywhere outside of the EU countries. In any case, they only work on 220 current.
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/tips_pyros.php

I use the same method as Gary. No pics at the moment but the method is quite easy and the results are great.

I use a thin evergreen rod or strip and attach it with Ambriod Pro Weld (any, thin cement will work too). Once it's set, I brush a liitle more glue on which will soften the bead I just applied. Then I quicky poke it in a short, stabbing motion along the entire length back and forth with the point of a number 11 blade. It works really well and if it ends up a little rough, then I brush on another bit of glue and it softens the high points. I find I have a lot of control with this method and the plastic remains workable for long enogh to get a really good effect.



Bob