First, let me thank all of you for what appears to be a great website. I'm sort of returning to military modelling after a long hiatus.

I started putting together a couple of figures based on Dragon's modern Marines and a few kitbashed arms and legs. So far I got them painted, and here's where I need some help.

I use Testor's enamels. Before trying a wash on my figs, should I give them a coat of Testor's gloss, and then a coat of dullcoat after the wash is done? Any other advise for this semi-noob would be greatly appreciated.

Here's some pics of what I'm working on:





Thanks in advance!

Looking good so far Gaston. I recognize the figures from the differant Dragon Marine and Delta Force kits. But, man, you gotta spill the beans.............how did you make the knee pads?? figures look good so far. I think they'll be great when theyre finished. Keep up the great work!

Gary

PS - Welcome to Armorama!

Thanks for the welcome, Gary!

The knee pads were done with Tamiya 2-part putty (My first lame attempt at sculpting!).

Eventually, I plan on making a whole squad, and if they turn out good, maybe making a small diorama around them.

I haven't decided if it's goind to be an Army or USMC squad (which is why I havn't used the K-bars yet!), because the fig with the tan knee pads is going to be holding an M14 DMR. Anyone know if any Marine units were issued these?

The second fig will have either an M240 (if USMC) or a SAW (if Army). I may be wrong, but I think the Army didn't start using the M240 as a hand-held weapon until much later (and they were wearing ACUs by then).

Gaston, the Army has been using the M-240 for awhile now, even the "B" dismount model, long before we went into Iraq, so feel free to use it with your figures. I also recall seeing lots, and lots of Army folks carrying the K-bar, so don't let that sway you either. To answer your question in regards to gloss/flat coats... the gloss coat will allow the wash to flow better and will help protect the underlying paint from lifting. I prefer to use Future Floor Polish for this as it doesn't react with the thinners in the washes I use. Once all is dry, the flat coat with impart a more fabric look and seal the washes and give you a good base for dry brushing. So far, your figures look pretty good. The colors and pattern are damn near spot on, (to these aging eyes ) Good job on the knee pads. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks for sharing your work with us. "Q"

ps. I was teaching new soldiers the M-240B in 1999-2000

You relaly goyt the camo patterns right, great job.
Eventuall;y, if you stay with figures, you'll be using a wash much less.
For the time being, you can mix up a wash of oil (burnt umber would be a good choice) and thinner. Using a fine brush, touch some of the mixture where you have creases and seams. Let capillary action do the rest. Don't lay a wash over the whole figure and plan on wiping it off. That's a great way to ruin a paint job. You could gloss it first, but I don't find that necessary.
Also, if you're staying with figures, you migth want to explore Vallejo and Andrea acrylics. There's a great tutorial on their use at Vallejo Acrylics. Click English, then Model Color and scroll to the bottom of the page.

AI, I don't have any experience with oils, but I'd be willing to try them. Any advantage of using oils for the wash instead of enamels? Also, what kind of thinner is used with oils, lacquer thinner?

Thanks for the kind words on my camo!

I use cheap hardware store thinner for oils and enamels. Take a small dollop of oil from the tube and add thinner. It's ready when you place a dab at the edge of a sharp corner or seam and the mixture gets drawn along by capillary action.

Matthew, sorry! I skipped over your post and didn't see at first!

Thanks for the info on the M240Bs and K-bars. Makes my decision a lot easier! I deffinetely need to give Future a try. My progress is usually pretty slow, but I'll keep it posted.

Thank you for you military service!

NO-NO-NO-NO!! Lacquer thinner will eat your figures, paint job etc. Too hot for washes. I would reccomend Turpinoid, or just some plain ol' paint thinner found at Wal-Mart etc for use with oil washes. Turpenoid will take a little longer to dry as it seems to have more of an oil content than regular thinners. Not sure how to describe it other than this....I left a small amount in a cap for over a week, and there was still trace amounts of it remaining in the bottom of the cap. It works really well with oils though. Another alternative is to use water colors. If and when I use these, I use Windex instead of water as it has less surface tension. No worries about the wash carrier eating thru to the paint and or plastic below. Same results too. Nice thing with water colors, is the ease with which they can be removed should a goof occur.

Not a problem. Glad to be of some help

Thanks for your support "Q"