Hi guys
I'm working on a dio that much to my distress is going to require a number of figure conversions and I say this with much fear, full scratchbuilding. I have heard many different ideas, both on the Net,and in book form as to what putty to use. So I turn to you folks for the true advice. Is there one type of putty better than the rest ? What if any is the difference in the different types of Milliput ? Lastly, is Milliput my answer or is there some super secret putty known only to the figure masters .
I've built armor,cars,and a few aircraft over the years. I can count the number of figures that I've done that came out looking HUMAN on one hand. So any advice, ideas, or directions will be very welcomed.
Thanks in advance
Harry
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
Best putty ?
Hot-wheels
Ohio, United States
Joined: April 28, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Joined: April 28, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 05:42 AM UTC
Hollowpoint
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
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Joined: January 24, 2002
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Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 05:59 AM UTC
I used Milliput for years and thought there could never be anything better.
Then I tried Apoxie Sculpt. I converted. I recently read that Steve Zaloga uses this stuff.
http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html
Then I tried Apoxie Sculpt. I converted. I recently read that Steve Zaloga uses this stuff.
http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html
taesung
Vendor
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 14, 2004
KitMaker: 493 posts
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Joined: February 14, 2004
KitMaker: 493 posts
Armorama: 340 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 06:09 AM UTC
I use Apoxie as well. I like it better than Milliput.
TS
TS
orange_3D
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 602 posts
Armorama: 469 posts
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 602 posts
Armorama: 469 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 06:46 AM UTC
I've tried quite a few of these epoxy putty over the years.
Starting with Milliput. Havent tried Apoxie. But I've converted to using Magic Sculpt which I bought at Euro and it's great! The main difference would be that Milliput tends to be a firmer mass and if you wet it to smooth it, the surface tends to melt into a mush. Magic Sculpt seems softer to me and gets firmer as it sets. It has excellent blending properties.
These days I've also started using Kneadatite (Blue and Green stuff) which is really firm when soft and a bit rubbery when set. I mix it with ordinary plumbers epoxy (bondite, araldite, etc) which is really soft. This way I can control the firmness based on the mixing ratio. The knead doesnt sand very well cause of its rubberiness when set, but mixed with the bondite (which is really hard when set) you get a really nice material for carving and sanding. The only problem i see is that blending is a bit tricky.
And as a finishing putty, I use tamiya putty thinned with enamel thinner. Perfect for filling up very small cracks and blemishes.
So my advice (though a bit pricey) is to buy a little bit of each of the different putties to see which one suits your working style. Or if you just want to get one - I recommend Magic Sculpt. (I'd like to try apoxie though)
Starting with Milliput. Havent tried Apoxie. But I've converted to using Magic Sculpt which I bought at Euro and it's great! The main difference would be that Milliput tends to be a firmer mass and if you wet it to smooth it, the surface tends to melt into a mush. Magic Sculpt seems softer to me and gets firmer as it sets. It has excellent blending properties.
These days I've also started using Kneadatite (Blue and Green stuff) which is really firm when soft and a bit rubbery when set. I mix it with ordinary plumbers epoxy (bondite, araldite, etc) which is really soft. This way I can control the firmness based on the mixing ratio. The knead doesnt sand very well cause of its rubberiness when set, but mixed with the bondite (which is really hard when set) you get a really nice material for carving and sanding. The only problem i see is that blending is a bit tricky.
And as a finishing putty, I use tamiya putty thinned with enamel thinner. Perfect for filling up very small cracks and blemishes.
So my advice (though a bit pricey) is to buy a little bit of each of the different putties to see which one suits your working style. Or if you just want to get one - I recommend Magic Sculpt. (I'd like to try apoxie though)
Hollowpoint
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 06:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I use Apoxie as well. I like it better than Milliput.
TS
There you go, Harry. Look at Taesung's work and you will see Apoxie's potential (not that any of us can sculpt as well as him ... but if we could ... )
Is Magic Sculpt the same product as Apoxie Sculpt under a different name?
Hot-wheels
Ohio, United States
Joined: April 28, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Joined: April 28, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 07:33 PM UTC
Hi guys
Thank you all for such fast replys. The answer is Apoxie Sculpt. Step 1, will be to order some. step 2 practice, practice, practice. Step 3 try, and just maybe my frozen Marines will look more human than large lump of @#$%.
Thank you again gentlemen, In less than 24 hours you've taken this project from no way to a real maybe.
Harry
Thank you all for such fast replys. The answer is Apoxie Sculpt. Step 1, will be to order some. step 2 practice, practice, practice. Step 3 try, and just maybe my frozen Marines will look more human than large lump of @#$%.
Thank you again gentlemen, In less than 24 hours you've taken this project from no way to a real maybe.
Harry
EagleSmack
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: February 03, 2006
KitMaker: 228 posts
Armorama: 225 posts
Joined: February 03, 2006
KitMaker: 228 posts
Armorama: 225 posts
Posted: Monday, June 04, 2007 - 05:39 PM UTC
I have been searching for the right putty myself. I just picked up a tube of Tamiya putty and I hope that is better than the stuff I have been using.
Just a comment on figure conversion and scratch building. I am currently working on my second diorama that has a few converted figures. My first diorama was the Scots Greys and I put some pictures up in the diorama forum. I was intimidated at first with converting figures but now I wish that I had done more. My only problem was the putty and the way it dried. But as I practiced I found out that converting gives you an even bigger sense of accomplishment.
The same with scratch building. I know that they come out with some great dioramas that can be purchased but I prefer to build my own. The one I am doing now is pretty much all scratch built save for things like jerry cans, oil drums. I built the building, wood floors, furniture, my own rubble (except for some bricks), windows and frames, etc. I have been working on it for some time and if I was to go back I would do some things different as I have read tips from these forums that could have helped. I will be rolling it out here within a few weeks. It is an urban Eastern Front German Scene with the armor being a Wespe.
Just a comment on figure conversion and scratch building. I am currently working on my second diorama that has a few converted figures. My first diorama was the Scots Greys and I put some pictures up in the diorama forum. I was intimidated at first with converting figures but now I wish that I had done more. My only problem was the putty and the way it dried. But as I practiced I found out that converting gives you an even bigger sense of accomplishment.
The same with scratch building. I know that they come out with some great dioramas that can be purchased but I prefer to build my own. The one I am doing now is pretty much all scratch built save for things like jerry cans, oil drums. I built the building, wood floors, furniture, my own rubble (except for some bricks), windows and frames, etc. I have been working on it for some time and if I was to go back I would do some things different as I have read tips from these forums that could have helped. I will be rolling it out here within a few weeks. It is an urban Eastern Front German Scene with the armor being a Wespe.
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Posted: Monday, June 04, 2007 - 11:18 PM UTC
I think that's hard to find the "perfect" putty, because everybody has it's own preferences and skill.
I personally prefer Sylmasta's Duro for sculpting and converting figures, and I hate Milliput, but I cannot tell that Milliput is to blame because I am not able to estabilish a "feeling" with it, also because I've got lots of riends making excellent stuff with it.
I think you have to work your own way just having a try to several products and see which one best fits your needs and your way of working...
Ciao
Fabio
I personally prefer Sylmasta's Duro for sculpting and converting figures, and I hate Milliput, but I cannot tell that Milliput is to blame because I am not able to estabilish a "feeling" with it, also because I've got lots of riends making excellent stuff with it.
I think you have to work your own way just having a try to several products and see which one best fits your needs and your way of working...
Ciao
Fabio
DM1975
Kansas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Joined: May 24, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 10:23 AM UTC
I like Milliput, but then again, other than Testors contour putty it is all I have ever used. I am far from being as experienced as the others on this site tho.
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 03:42 PM UTC
How do you use Testors contour putty? It dries so fast, I can't really do fine details with it (as a matter of fact, I have the same issue with the Squadron one too... My good ol' Hungarian 25cent-a-tube auto-putty dried in, and now I don't have a good substitute.)
DM1975
Kansas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
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Joined: May 24, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 03:51 PM UTC
Only thing I use it for is to fill small cracks and holes. I use Milliput for everything else.
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
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Joined: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 03:55 PM UTC
That was my question: how? It dries so fast, I only have time to push a lot of it on the surface, and sand it away. Not very good when working with small details.
DM1975
Kansas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Joined: May 24, 2007
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Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 - 12:04 AM UTC
It is not that bad on small holes and seams that you need to fill. I dab it on there and trowel it out with my knife. Afterwards I just hit it up a few times with sand paper. I have used it before to make small latches and to build up small areas but realy only use it for the small stuff I need to take care of quickly. At one time it was the only thing available to me to use so I used it alot. Now that I have discovered others my model making has become less frustrating but I still keep a few tubes to fill in the cracks with.