Built Review
Slatted Mesh for Sd.Kfz.7/1
Slatted Mesh Type Folding Side/Rear Platforms for WW II German Sd.Kfz.7/1 2cm Flak-Vierling38
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by: Bill Cross [ BILL_C ]


In the novel Candide, Voltaire has one of his characters exclaim “this is the best of all possible ages!” Certainly for fans of German halftracks, this would seem to be so, with all major weight classes now in styrene except the Sd.Kfz.8. Over the past 18 months, we have seen Dragon and Trumpeter racing to put out a complete line of variants for the 7 and variants, with no fewer than seven new kits, ranging from the Prime Mover through Late War Sd.Kfz.7/1s and 7/2s. Dragon’s Sd.Kfz.7/1 Early War version has prompted a series of aftermarket photo etch upgrades from Griffon Model that cover everything from the gun barrels for its 2cm FlaK 38 guns to the mesh sides.

The Sd.Kfz.7/1 Early War version had mesh screens on the fold-down side panels of the rear bed, presumably to provide secure footing for the gunners when deployed for action. Both Dragon and Trumpeter use fairly conventional photo etch mesh to render the screens, but there is some dispute about the nature of that mesh. Some surviving photos seem to show just that— mesh, while the museum examples have what can only be described as a complicated lattice work mesh not unlike the modern Stryker’s slat armor (see photo at right from the excellent book in the "Wings & Wheels" series, Sd.Kfz.7 In Detail, reviewed by me here). Dragon’s later war Sd.Kfz.7/2 comes with both wooden sides and “museum” mesh (see Jim Starkweather's review here for more). Whether the Germans gave up on this complicated system in favor of ordinary mesh screening, or the photos are simply inconclusive remains a topic of discussion. But Griffon Model has taken on the challenge of rendering the slat mesh sides as accurately as the original with a set of PE that literally throws out the Dragon side panels and starts from scratch.

the kit

The set includes:

3 frets of silver (steel?) PE
1 fret of conventional brass PE
Wire for hinges, etc.

the review

This set is a real “balls to the wall,” hold nothing back for the sake of expediency effort that chucks out the styrene parts supplied with the kit and goes for the maximum level of detailing possible in a 1/35th scale rendering of the Sd.Kfz.7/1’s mesh sides. It dispenses with the plastic side framing, and instead goes to full-blown metal. Part of me wishes Griffon had kept the styrene frames to seat the PE on and work with it, since getting the sides to "true up" with perfectly squared corners demands some extra effort. You begin by separating a total of four “base” components, then raise up the slats running vertically across it so that their indentations are ready to lock into the horizontal slatting. There are 16 individual slats that must be separated from the PE fret, filed down where needed to remove the "burrs" from the photo etch process and attachments, then glued one-by-one onto the four “base” components. Removing them from their frets, aligning each with the teeth on the vertical slats locking into those of the horizontal ones, ultimately forming a series of boxes, seemed at first like an impossible task.

And the first base component I separated got a "sprung," misshapen bend to it I couldn't straighten for love or money. I thought I was screwed. But as each slat was added, the interlocking teeth began to form a series of squared joints and the "sprung" look gradually was overcome. I use a piece of tile to assemble the components because the CA glue doesn’t stick to it as much, but you must be very careful not to apply too much glue lest it clog up the openings. You can see some extra glue around the edges of the assembly photo at right that I'll have to clean up when I've completed adding all the slats.

This is definitely not for the PE novice!

While the upgrade is aimed at the Dragon Sd.Kfz.7/1, I think it’s possible to modify the results to fit the Trumpeter kit, though the dimensions are somewhat different on the rear beds of the two models. If you’ve bought the Trumpeter version, I’m sure you’ll be tempted to try once you’ve seen this set. The results are simply amazing.


The Dragon mesh for the kit is handled with PE, but it’s a plain mesh that doesn’t come close to replicating the slat mesh on surviving vehicles. However, the set is both complicated-to-use and requires extreme patience and some advanced PE skills, including the ability to file off the "burrs" that are left after the pieces are removed from the frets (I use a pair of flat needle-nose pliers and a Tamiya diamond PE file). Definitely NOT for the novice or casual builder, yet the level of authenticity is astonishing.

Subsequent to publishing this review, I have begun assembling the set for the build log referenced below. During that assembly, I have found this set to be extremely difficult to piece together: six panels must be separated from their frets, no easy task because of their harder composition than conventional PE brass. Then each vertical slat must be bent into shape, with some slats breaking loose from the frame. When all the slats are sticking out, then the horizontal slats (16 per panel) must be glued into place. Then the rest of the panels are assembled from two rectangular frames that are separated by two long, easily distorted thin slats intended to form a square framing shape. While the accuracy of the results is without compare (as can be seen in the final photo showing this upgrade compared to the kit parts and a laser-cut paper upgrade from Kamizukuri), the difficulty of working with it has induced me to lower its score by 10 points to reflect the difficulty. Some of the components should have been pre-formed as, for example, Griffon Model has done with its muzzle brakes on its Flak 38 barrel upgrades.

A build log of this accessory set can be found by clicking here.
Highs: This is photo etch taken to a new level of accuracy and detailing.
Lows: Extremely difficult to assemble, and definitely NOT for the novice modeler.
Verdict: Highly recommended to those who must have the most-accurate kit possible.
Percentage Rating
  Scale: 1:35
  Mfg. ID: GRM-L35A058
  Suggested Retail: $16
  PUBLISHED: Feb 15, 2010

About Bill Cross (bill_c)

Self-proclaimed rivet counter who gleefully builds tanks, planes and has three subs in the stash.

Copyright ©2021 text by Bill Cross [ BILL_C ]. All rights reserved.


Are these laser-cut paper? Or PE brass? In any case, I'm glad to see something for the 7/2 which has little or no AM upgrades. The photos of the originals are inconclusive on the mesh/lattice question. Could it be the Germans themselves cut back as the war went on?
FEB 16, 2010 - 06:41 AM
From one of the links given in my above post : "This series uses compressed paper. Before separating parts from the sheet, please undercoat with non-water based paint or plastic cement. When using water based paint directly, there is a possibility of the paper becoming deformed due to excess wetness. When water in applied the paper becomes soft and able to bend. When dry, paper becomes firm into the shape that it was bent. File and putty is possible when dry." Cheers, Christophe
FEB 16, 2010 - 08:07 PM
Great review, Bill! Man, with all these 'must have' PE additions I'll be spending quite a bit of money on all of my four DML Sdkfz 7s. I saw the royal set from Griffon (which includes everything) and was thinking about getting it but the more I see your reviews the more I think I'll just use some of the individual sets for the areas I'd like to change. Excellent reviews of all of these sets! Rob
FEB 17, 2010 - 03:17 AM
Christophe, thanks for clearing that up, clearly I didn't read far enough down the page! I would love to see a sample of the mesh and compare it to the PE version. Thank you, Rob. Nothing makes a reviewer happier than to hear his work is helping a fellow modeler get through the tsunami of new products coming on-line every month. Someone told me last week (not knowing I'm on staff for Armorama) that reviewers are "ruining the hobby and hurting manufacturers." For some time, Griffon has been a personal favorite for PE, since they go the "extra mile" with things like preformed flash suppressors or resin radiators. Eduard's sets for the Sd.Kfz.7 and variants requires cutting out styrene from the kit radiator and replacing it with metal. Not an impossible assignment, but I prefer Griffon's solution. These slats are very challenging, and I've only completed part of one so far. See below:
FEB 17, 2010 - 04:37 AM
WOW, that sure does seem challenging, Bill! I've been trying to hone my PE skills with less-complex subjects in the hopes I get good enough to tackle something like this (or something like the slat armor on Strykers). And I do agree that Griffon seems to be the absolute best out there right now when it comes to PE sets. I was too sold when I got their 2cm Flak 38 and Pak 40 sets last year and I know I'll be getting more of their stuff in the coming months. Thanks for the pic of the assembly! It does put the parts involved into perspective. Rob
FEB 17, 2010 - 07:11 AM
Rob, the key here is patience, patience, patience, and did I say patience? And good magnification & lighting, LOL! But I can tell you this-- on my Sd.Kfz.7/2 build, it's going to be the wooden side alternative all the way!!!!
FEB 17, 2010 - 07:23 AM
Wooden side on the 7/2? YES, I'll probably be going with that alternative as well now that you mention it! Haven't really had the chance to look at my 7/2 just yet so it's nice to know the klit provides options on this as one PE work on the sides (on the 7/1) will be enough for me as well Rob
FEB 17, 2010 - 09:28 AM
UPDATE: Photos are now on the review that show the mesh built. It was like the Rumble in the Jungle, the Thrilla in Manila, but I got it together.
MAR 25, 2010 - 07:49 AM
FURTHER UPDATE: You can now see the mesh on the finished model.
MAR 30, 2010 - 11:28 AM

Click image to enlarge
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