Hello guys!

I'm new to this section of the forum, since I am now building a star wars model and I have a Merkava Mk IV LIC on it's way; but I've always been attracted towards russian armour.

I've already build a tamiya T-72 in the past, but then I've decided to UN-build it since I realized there was a lot of work to do on it and the painting was too much badly done ( I had pratically no experience at the time)
The model is kind of very damaged by the de-construction... Some pieces are broked,one or two smoke launchers are missing ( Doesn't get me mad, they are such a pain to put on the turret..) and on top of that, the plastic itself was damaged since I've used acetone to remove the very thick coat of paint I've applied.

BUT; the model is not a total loss, and I like it a lot. In fact, I would like to rebuild it, and why not put some after market kits on it.
Now, I am not an expert in russian armour, but I do like to do some research and learn more about this. It seems that Miniarm produce some good after market kits for a T-72B conversion (the ERA would suits me, since I have some smoke launchers missing..); but i'm a little bit confused over here.. There is one kit for the hull, the turret, wheels etc... Building a T-72B could be nice, and make me practice my scratch building to replace the broken pieces; but I need your advices to help decide wich kit could suits me best.

*edit* since the B conversion are a little bit expensive, is there any less pricey kits available?

Thanks in advance!

Hi Tom

Miniarm are a good option for T72/T90 conversion sets. I am currently using the Miniarm T-90 parts on a Tamiya T-72 and I've found them to be very good quality.

Basically how it works on these sets is that you will need various kits to complete the accurate model you want to make. Typically this includes the Turret, front hull upgrade, wheels (on late model T-72), and tracks.

For example on my T-90 I have used the following Miniarm kits:
B35032 - T-90 Hull
B35033 - T-90A turret
B35034 - T-90 tracks (this set includes the drive spockets and idlers)
B35005 - T-72 Wheels late type (for T-72B T-72BM/T-90) - late model T-72 have 6 spoke wheels and not 8 like the early version depicted in the Tamiya set.

If you wanted to build a T-72B from the Miniarm sets you would need the following:
B35030 - T-72B Hull
B35029 - T-72B Turret
B35006 - T-72 Tracks
B35005 - T-72 Wheels late type (for T-72B T-72BM/T-90)

There is a little surgery required to the Tamiya hull to include the resin upgrade hull, so bear that in mind. You will need to cut off the front of the tamiya part and replace with the Miniarm part. Full instructions are provided in the set to give pointers on where the cuts are required etc.

If you wanted a cheaper option for converting a T-72 why not just make an early T-72? For example with a turret only to add to the Tamiya base kit? You could use B35035 - T-72A "Dolly Parton" turret. This wouldn't require any new wheels or hull upgrade, and the tracks would be an extra option left totally to your discretion.

Other companies who produce T-72 upgrades are Verlinden (complete Hull upgrade 1 part swap, no surgery to Tamiya part just replacement. I'd avoid their engine set it's not very good), CMK (turret upgrades), and Blast Models (Turret replacement, but I think it's quite hard to get hold of these days).

Hope this helps!

P.S - as a side note both of the Miniarm turrets (T-72A/T-72B) come with replacement resin smoke launchers so don't worry about not having the tamiya parts.

Hi

You can also do an early Czech made vehicle with the SP designs front hull and verlinden turret adn CMK detail set, I have one that will be a Syrian version from the 80's as Czech first production were exported to them.

regards

Well, thank you very much for your answers, I'm happy to see a little bit clearly about T-72 conversions options.

For the moment, I'll think I'll place an order on a SP designs T-80U conversion, much more affordable I think!

But I'll work on the T-72, to fix and repair at least!

Thank you again,

Thomas.

Oddly enough, I'm in the middle of a similar process: taking apart a Tamiya T72 I built almost 10 years ago and re-doing it. I have yet to decide which variant, and like you, I'm looking at economy as a major factor.
Please keep us posted on progress....

Basically, the only thing that really needs to be replaced in Tamiya's T-72 is the horrid vinyl track bands. If the export version, M1, is to built, the geometry of the plastic itself is actually pretty good, you can leave the turret as is, most people won't even tell the difference between plastic and aftermarket turret of export versions, once whole thing is painted. The front hull is a more serious problem, but there is readily available solution: SP Designs' glacis plate. If you chose to go for a Soviet used T-72 then there are no budget options available, unless one wants to build half the kit from scratch.

Any point in picking up the DML kit referenced above for parts? I see them at vendor's tables at shows now and then....

Hi

Really difficult that dragon kit parts can be used on the tamiya kit without mayor surgery better only buy the sp design front glacis you can do an iraqui, syrian, polish, czech (theres one on a three color cammo version), german or any warsaw pact army including yugoslav

regards
Raul

I have just submitted and had put in the ref section here a large number of pictures of the T72 from East Germany which resides at Bovington.

Thanks for the heads up Darren I'll be sure to look into that!

Tom good luck with the build!

Hello! First of all, merry christman to you all!

Here is some pictures of my T-72, it was really in bad shape. Did a lot of cleaning and sanding on the model, but the paint was applyed a long time ago and some painted areas can't be cleaned entirely,plus the product I've used on the first cleaning a long time ago did damaged the plastic. I am away from "my workshop" at the moment, so the only things I can share with you is the cleaned model. I'll add some replacement parts for the parts who are too thin because of the sanding. I plan on acquiring a miniarm dolly parton turret, but for now , I'll work on repairing and detailling the hull and see what the result will be before investing in a replacement turret. No more talk for now, here are the pictures!

Before:











After













This is it!

P.S. What do you think? Should I continue to improve it? Or the plastic is too much damaged to continue anything?.... note that some areas don't look that much damaged, the pictures did accentuate the thing a little bit.

Tom keep going....

What have you been using to clean the model ?

Oven cleaner does the trick in some cases.....

When you redo it, make it look fairly weathered, that'll help cover some of your issues.

Cheers

Paul

Personally I'd scrap it and relegate it to the status of "test hulk" for trying out new painting & weathering techniques.

I'm not saying that you're doing a bad job in trying to rescue it - but in your position I'd have to ask myself "is it really worth the time and effort?". As well as "is it worth throwing expensive aftermarket stuff at an old, overhauled kit?" Especially in view of the fact that you say the plastic is now damaged in places.

If you think it is, then of course carry on (it's your time, effort and money after all). But if not, then why not just treat yourself to a brand new kit (the Tamiya T-72 is still available) and use the aftermarket accessories on that?

I'm sure the end result would be much better and much more satisfying in the long run.

I think that Steve's got a good point, but to be honest I think you could rescue that kit still without too much work.

Some decent quality Thinner should remove those gunky paint bits, the scratches on the surface could be repaired easily enough with some Tamiya fine grade sand paper, and other surface damage could be fixed with putty or filler. Alternatively you could just use Mr Surfacer to fix problems as well if you wanted.

I'd say keep going a bit longer before you add any aftermarket stuff, see if you can get it to a level you are happy with. If not then follow Steve's suggestion and order a new base Tamiya kit.

I think this is a good cause, and I've seen this alot in sci fi and fantasy modelling where people buy old wrecks on ebay and strip them and rebuild them into very nice kits.

Good luck!

As for removing the paint -
There's some stuff available here in the States (might be available in The Great White North as well) called "Purple Power" that works quite well, though it's a little slow. Check your local auto parts store for it. It's inexpensive ($7-$8US/gallon), not terribly toxic, and is bio-degradable too. After a good soak, just use an old toothbrush to dislodge the loosened paint. Repeat as necessary.
It doesn't damage plastic in the slightest - I have a styrene car body that soaked in it for a month + (oops) and it was perfect - but I would suggest that you use gloves with it. It will Dry. Your. Skin. Right. Out. (I didn't, and I was flaking skin off my hands for 2 days - the stuf IS a degreaser )

Hey!! Thank you very much for your support!! As this project cost me practicly no money, and it makes me practice scratch bulding and other things, I'll try to finish the hull and see what it will look like before ordering a new turret. To remove the paint, I've used the same product that has been mentioned on top, oven cleaner. But I've painted this model with tamiya "ts-28" a paint that comes in a spray can, I've find it very difficult to remove. The onven cleaner did worked a little bit , but I had to use nail varnish remover in order to clean better. As for the scratches, they are not visible once the primer has been applyed, I use very grade sand paper, but I'll put putty where there is too much of them.

Did some work on the front glacis, and the sanding if quite finished now, maybe I'll do some touch up but the thing I really need to do is use some epoxy putty and fill the little holes that acetone did on the plastic. I can still see some cyanoacrylate on the sratch-built parts I've put, but I will peel this off as soon as is will completly be dry. Trying to glue copper parts together is quite a challenge, as it is not always very solid.. anyway, let me know what you think! These parts are kind of the very first I've made in scratch bulding; I have practicly no experience in this...













See ya!
Tom.

Well done Tom, I'm really pleased that you decided to stick with this and I'm sure in the end it will pay off. If nothing else as you said it gives you a cheap way to practice your skills on a not so important project.

It's looking fine to me so far though to be honest and the added details are well done.

Keep going!

Hello! Thanks for your support Jon! Gets me motivated to continue this project

Did not do a lot of things, just finished the lights protection and the mud flap spring. Not that much perfect though... what do you think about those pieces?

Here it is! :











More updates on the glacis is coming on.

See ya!

Hello guys!! Again another update; not a big one though, I prefer to post small updates on a regular basis rather than a complete built in 25 pictures within a month as university is taking me a lot of time. I've ad the towing cable fixations, and the cable itself; using bicycle brakes cable that I've bended correctly; wich I think, are making a more realistic piece. If I post again pictures of the upper hull it's because I've tried a technique I didn't know and that I tooked from jacques: Mix epoxy putty with tamiya thinner. I then applied it with a brush and wipe the excedent on surfaces that have been scratched by the sanding paper or where the platic have been eated by the acetone when I cleaned it for the first time. What do you think of this?













The surfaces are now smoothier, leaving no big traces when i'll put primer on ( I hope )



Please let feedback about this!

Now I am trying to find a way to make those pieces :



Tamiya ones tend to be a little too big in my opinion, and lack of sharpness in the hexagonal form of the piece.

I thought that maybe I could use some "plastruct" hex rod or something. Some bolts on the front glacis have been damaged by the sanding. 2 were replaced with sprue yellow plastic, I think we can see them on some pictures. I try to use plastruct as well to replace them.

See ya!!

Tom.

Beauty! Good job so far; it must have been a bit of the chore to bend that brake cable (tip filed away for my IS-2 build...)

Hi Tom !

Good progress, thanks for the updates....

I'd use some sprue and some 0.8mm copper wire for those.

This is really coming along

Cheers

Paul

Cool! Glad to hear some of my "tips" are usefull. Keep working at it.

Hello! Thank you very much for your support! Feels great to know that you have some followers

Here are the advances : Did maked those tools used to "unbolt" bolts ( my english isn't good enough to know the word used for this thing) , placed the rivets on the driver's V mud guard and tried to make some welding seams with milliput; this is my very first use of this product!! Let me know what you think about this!!









Thanks again!,

Tom

Hey guys!

It's been a long time since I've updated the build, and I am sorry to inform you that I didn't maked that much progress.. At least I want to show what I've done since then:

Second tow hook welding seam:


Began to work on the headlight's guard weldings too


Replaced the caps for the tanks using styrene hex rod


And I replaced the original handles, it was a pain to make these... the shape in not REALLY perfect but I find them cool. I think they make a good detail addition to the overall model, what's your opinion about those?







I plan to make the rear plate cables fixations, as well as the cable itself and the triangular shaped thing with little holes in it located on the rear plate too, don't know what's their function or what they're called but tamiya didn't included those.

I hope I'll finish the hull at time for summer!

Please let me know what you rhink!

Tom.