Paul looks like you've got a lot on the go at the moment to keep you busy!

I've run into a few problems on the turret that still have me confused, and my reference photos don't seem to show the specific parts I need to use.

Jacques I was hoping you might be able to help with this. In the T-80 walkaround thread you said




I've been looking at the turret part a few times now and I can't see four bolts, they don't seem to be on the kit, at least not in the way of the diagram. See below:



Now I'm assuming that the wind sensor goes on the turret rear something like this? However I don't have any reference pics that show this style of wind sensor on a T-80 so I'm not certain, i'm guessing on the location from my experience with my T-90 build:



I'm also stuck on this part shown below. I can't make it out on the list of parts in the instructions and it doesn't seem to be on the assembly diagrams either?

The part is the Russian style cross-wind sensor and should be mounted on the turret top. Located aft center.

Thanks Thomas. Does anyone have a good reference photo showing this part? Next question is of course if this sensor is mounted on the m2005 variant?

BOTH are cross wind sensors. And Sergej has cast up the part that would be C97/98 from the SKIF kit...without telling me. But it is a nicer piece than the SKIF part.

John - You are correct, there is no longet the "4 bolts" because of the new type wind sensor. You are also correct in where it needs to go:





Without a nice close-up of the "new" type sensor, you may have to trust and put it up on rods (4 corners) if that looks better, ala where the bolts would be for the earlier wind sensor.

Thanks Jacques, so would I be right in thinking that it's EITHER the T-90 style (stalk) wind sensor (parts 77/6) OR the other dome shaped sensor shown in your photo?

Would be it incorrect to model a M2005 with this dome sensor?

Also does the T-80 have a cast texture like earlier Soviet Tanks? I'm not sure if it's correct for me to use Mr Surfacer on the turret for example. Most photos I've seen seem pretty smooth in terms of finish?

Hey Jon, I don’t know if this will help any but here is a shot of my turret granite it’s different from yours in the fact it’s a 91 mod. But it does show the 4 mounting point for the wind sensor and yes yours could have the new sensor due the 91 also has the new style sensor. But in reality both could be used.


Also to answer your question about the cast texture, the casting are pretty much smooth. But how ever there is a new IR reducing coating that can be applied to the tank. I have included a copy from one of the books I have. I just can’t tell fore sure if it’s even being used, when it went into service or it’s just a mock-up for shows, but it does give it a heavy casting look though. I hope this helps some.
Chris

Hi Chris thanks for sharing your photos, I see what is meant by the 4 bolts now.

At least I know I wasn't going mad and missing the obvious, I'm quite relieved that my turret definately doesnt have them!

That reference photo about the IR reducing coating is interesting also, but I guess as you say most T-80 have a smooth finish unlike T-55 and T-62. Guess theres no need for the Mr surfacer stippling after all!

I'm glad I could help Jon. It's strange how some SP kits have the mountingpoints and others don't, but I guess it all depends on the generation of the kit. It would be cool to see the text added on the not from sp but from a modeller, But I just don't know enough about the coating if it is even being used or nor. Maybe Jacques would know more about it.
Chris

John -

1. Only 1 tyoe of wind sensor would be on a tank. The new "stalk" style is also being retro-fitted to older T-80U's as they come due for maintenance...it is part of the interior Fire Control System upgrades. I would doubt that a m05 would have the old "mickey mouse ears" style, but I have learned to never say never.

2. Look at the photos I put at the bottom of page 1, from the walk around. THAT is typical of T-80U turret casting. I think they did a lot of grinding on the turret to smooth out casting roughness, but I think there are "Monday/Friday" turrets and Tuesday-Thursday" turrets (Meaning that some are well done with the grinding and some are only done so-so because it was a Monday/Friday, other things on the workers minds than work). Also, I think the T-80U turret castings are a lot smoother than the tooled look of the T-55/T-62 turrets.

Chris -
1. I have not heard from Sergej yet, but I think the turret mounting points are removed to not inconvenience the modeller.

2. Yes, the IR paint is in use, but I cannot honestly tell you how many tanks have it. My guess is not a lot considering the money problems of Russia.

Thanks Jacques thats great and answers all my questions!

I'll mount the stalk sensor and leave the cast texture off.

Also my parcels finally arrived today so I'll be able to now continue with the build and start the lower Hull.

Well I finally got my parcels yesterday and I'm really pleased with the parts from Armor35. Having a look at the Modelpoint barrel it certainly seems like a fine piece, but I have a question.

I also ordered a Barrel from RB Model as well for the T-72. I'm not sure however if the RB Model is appropriate for a T-80, as it is described as 125mm L/48. I can't seem to find this designation anywhere however and only find info on the 2A46 125mm gun. I know that the 2A46 is mounted on numerous tanks including T-80 and T-72, but is the RB model part the same gun? I'm waiting on mine in the post so I havent seen it yet.

If it isn't the same I plan to use the photo etch sheet to detail up my 2A46 from modelpoint and keep the T-72 barrel for future projects.

Hi Jon

You are making an impressive job, about barrels, the T-80U used a 125mm/L55 gun, L-48 was on use only on T-72A and T-80B the change in caliber came on middle eighties to counter the german Leopard2 and M1 tanks, About coating if you are making a 2005 tank I think you must do it as pictures definitely have them

Hope to see your progress on the week

Regards

Thanks Raul, that helps that point.

However is the Modelpoint 2A46 Barrel L/55? I hope that the Modelpoint barrel is the correct caliber... Jacques what do you think? I assume the modelpoint item is correct for T-80U?

Thanks Jacques, the info is going to help when I start my build latter. I just didn't know enough about the IR paint and it does make sense about the money problems. As far as the sensor goes, I'm going to be using the newer style when I build my UDK since I want to bring it up to more in line with the newer ones I'm finding.

Jon glad to hear you finely got in the tank it's self. Can't wait to see the rest of the build. As far as the barrel goes, I don't see why the RB barrel could work. The difference between and L/48 and L/55 can be that much of a scale dfference unless someone is going to take a ruler to it. But I could be wrong since I don't have the barrel in front of me. Then again the RB is much more detailed than the modelpoint.
Chris

The build looks great!
I also had the idea to build Revell´s T-80 as correct as possible, but my problem is "the money".
It´s one of the kits, for which I can find a lot of after-market-stuff, and which I´m interested in.
But also one of the problems are... "where is the next good online-shop" and "how to buy the parts?".

greetings...
Soeren

Hey Jon, Jacques, or anybody, can someone please identify this item? Is it some sort of track tension tool? The part is encluded in the SP kit, but very vage on if I have to use it or just an optional part. I don't know if the kit your working on jon has it or not, but the walk arounds show it being mounted on the rear fender were as on my kit the directions are not too clear as the placement of it.
Chris

Hi Chris, yes I've got this part in my set too. Here is an image from the Track link blog that shows its placement on the rear right fender:

http://www.track-link.net/blogs/images/b_116_14.jpg


These parts are rail car cleats.

Hi Soeren, thanks for posting! I was considering the Zvezda T-80 for a while also (same as the Revell model), however Im basing my conversion off the SKIF T-80 kit. I know what you mean though theres so much cool aftermarket stuff. You buy one bit, and then another... then you add it all up and gosh! It's easy to get carried away!

As for items and stores what are you after? I might be able to find it for you. I often use Armour35.ru for difficult to get parts.

Chris,
the "track tension tool" you show a photo of are used to ship the tanks by rail. They are attached, 2 each, to the tracks with the teeth facing down and as the vehicle is driven onto the railcar they bite into the wood decking. They can be found mounted all over the place on the T-64,72 ,and 80 depending on the version, I can send some drawings showing their use if you're interested.

Sean

Time for a quick update, I've been keeping myself busy the last few days and have managed to finish the lower hull, suspension, sprockets, and prep the road wheels, 24 in total sanding those was a real grind .

This is the SKIF kit that I'll be using:



I have never built a SKIF kit before, but I knew about their repuatation for lack of detail. The kit certainly is crude in that respect. However my biggest complaint is that NOTHING FITS! AT ALL! Even after sanding and numerous dry fits you'll need a lot of filler. Also it's not just that parts won't mate, I also found that all of the precut holes for parts are also the wrong size, so none of the suspension or return rollers would fit! Even a simple task like attaching the return rollers meant that I had to enlarge all the holes. What should be a simple build really takes a lot of time and work to get right. Thank god I was only building the SKIF lower Hull!



In addition to the fit problems there are also numerous empty spaces that are just left wide open by SKIF. The Idlers stick out by themselves and require plasticard panels to fill the large gaps between the lower hull and upper hull (this is especially noticable at the front of the vehicle) there are also large gaps between the rear upper hull and lower hull that require filling by plasticard strips.









Sadly SP Designs don't provide an Idler in their Sprocket set so I had to use the SKIF parts, which while not too bad are very thick in terms of detail. I really wish that SP Designs include front Idlers in their set like Masterclub and Miniarm. It's a shame to put so much effort into replacing the Sprockets and road wheels to have the effect let down by shoddy SKIF Idlers. Using their return rollers is bad enough but thankfully these are hidden by the side skirts anyway. As you can see the suspension detail in the SKIF kit is very basic and rather crude. Thankfully little of this is visable.

I really don't understand why SP Designs don't just include a lower Hull in their set. They make 90% of the Tank already and the SKIF parts really aren't well done. I would happily pay a little extra for a decent resin lower hull and a complete kit, rather than have to buy a poor SKIF kit that I only need a tiny amount of.

The Skif Sprockets and Road wheel are done well enough, and the detail on the sprockets is good. However not quite the same level as Masterclub ones I've used in the past. Also they required a lot of clean up. The Road Wheels are detailed enough and a must as the SKIF wheels are not useable, however again here the nasty problem of casting reared its head. Casting on the road wheels was a real issue and these will require some work to correct and tidy up. The main issues are airbubbles, miscast and warped/bent fine detail such as the inner wheel rim detail, and transparent hubs that are close to snapping. These semi transparent parts will need to be strenghted and filled with some Mr Surfacer or Squadron putty to prevent them from cracking. However after the repairs and filling they should look fine although again they aren't up to the same level as the wheel set I used from Miniarm for my T-90 (they were however also cheaper).

Thanks guys for the information. Some of the directions can be a little vage at times.

Good god Jon, I can see you have your hands full with this kit. The gaps are horrible around the sp kit and lower hull from the skif kit. I have built plenty of skif kits in the past, but never with a converision kit. I just don't remember this mainy gaps with the older ones. I'm going to be a little bit curious how mine will turn out is just has a new rear engine deck instead of a complete hull.

I'm defiantly going to be watching closely to see how you are going to be tackling this one. One quest though, any reason why you use the wheels from SP instead of masterclub? I've been looking at the masterclub wheels myself. Kepp the build coming and great progress so far.
Chris

Hi Chris, I used the SP designs wheels because I couldnt find a stockist who had the Masterclub ones. I was only able to get the Tracks on Armor35.ru, for my next T-80 I'll definately try the Masterclub ones. If they are anything link the Miniarm wheels I've used in the past they will likely need less work than the SP ones.

HI Jon

Wait me abit as I have to found my MP barrel to check the length, you can see the next links to know more about 2A46 barrel history

http://aux.ciar.org/ttk/mbt/armor.vif2.ru/Tanks/ARM/2a46.html
http://www.strategypage.com/militaryforums/2-11234.aspx

I will try to do a new post with a comparision of 2A46 barrels from diferent makers (MP, RB, MINIARM, SP, EDUARD and ARMO)

regards

And also I was Wrong is not 55 caliber is 52 sorry

Hello Jon,

Well, I thought I would post here before you did about the hull fit. Guess not. You are not alone in your annoyance...(my T-80UM1 build):

Gaps in the hull, front and back, Sergej says that modellers don't mind filling in the gaps. I keep telling him to work on fixing this issue, and it looks like when he has to remaster the T-80 upper hulls he will look into it. Somedays... (sigh)...

YOu will need to file down part of the inside of the rear plate to get the kit sides to fit properly with the SP Designs conversion.

A bit of background...I have MANY SKIF T-80 kits and I have some in white, some in gray, and some in dark green. The Dark green and gray kit parts actually FIT the rear hull piece from SP Designs, but not the white kit. Go figure...

The SP Designs roadwheels and sprockets are my masters...now before anyone gets too uptight, I know they are imperfect and they were made that way. There was no sprocket for the Master club tracks other than the DML T-80 one. We needed a immediate fix. So I built them, look on Armorama for the thread to see it in action.

For the roadwheels, I will say that Master Club's wheels are better cast. However, I would argue about the accuracy of some details AND they are meant to be mounted on the DML kit, and not the SKIF kit, so they have their own issues that are a pain to deal with. The most current SP Designs wheels are detailed, AND fit the Master Club tracks with no problems. Sergej has indicated that preliminary results with the vacuum casting are producing much less "airy" detail parts.

I am slowly working on a lower hull and other pieces for a possible master. Sergej has said he may work on one too after he is done mastering the art of vacuum casting. For whatever reason, he is VERY skittish about releasing a full resin T-80 kit of any kind. I have no idea why. I keep pushing and seem to be making headway.

As for the idler...well, I was not ready to tackle it and Sergej said if he does do a lower hull he will make a accurate idler. I may do one sooner for him...maybe.

And remember, the DML kit is really a bad one to work with compared to SKIF...

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