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Building a BTR-80A
Karl187
#284
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2011 - 05:12 AM UTC
One of the catalysts behind this current project of mine was a number of posts in this section about the BTR-80. There were several excellent builds that covered detailing and some discussions about the accuracy of the kits on offer. That, among other things, made me want to get one of these underway myself. So, without further ado, here we go!







The version I’m modelling, the BTR-80A, actually sports neither of the above types of tyre. In the box you don’t even get the versions depicted on the box art! The A road wheels look like this:

http://dic.academic.ru/pictures/wiki/files/66/BTR-80A(2).JPG

Unfortunately I tried to get the resin version of these from Miniarm but everywhere I tried was out of stock so I settled for the SP Designs wheels that are for the regular BTR-80. The hubs, as far as I know, are correct- the tread and width is not. But for me the SP designs wheels were a good price and they look a lot better than the kit versions.













As you can see I substituted many of the kit parts for PE ones from the Eduard BTR-80 set. I would really recommend this as it does add to a lot of areas and fixes a lot of mistakes. As far as I know most of what I have done is correct but I have made mistakes, some intentional, some not. Based on other threads I believe the wave deflector is an incorrect size but it looks fine to me so I left that.

I also made the mistake of pushing the leftmost light on each side into the metal frame when it should sit inside it a bit. The rear-view mirrors should also be back further than they are on mine. I also added a small horn on the left side near the light assembly, just from a few scrap bits of PE.

The only other bits added here were the dampers?? for the wave deflector. The kit parts are totally wrong and the PE parts only fix the problem on the BTR-80. The A version has a different kind of damper which is square with a little bit of rubber?? on the inside. I sratched this from plastic card and brass rod.









The side doors on the kit are another problem. The fit is pretty bad and unfortunately it means the final shape is not right at all- for a start there are gaping holes either side of the side doors when the hull halves are mated. This was filled with pieces of plastic strip which were trimmed to shape. Magic Putty was then smoothed over this to correct the shape of this area.

Another mistake in the kit is the fact there is no grab-handle set beside the door on either side. This is clearly visible in all references of the BTR-80A. It was easily replaced with some brass rod.





The rear of the BTR is relatively easy to correct with the PE parts. However, the Eduard PE would have you shave off the rear lights on the kit and replace it with a pair of PE parts for either side. I’m not sure what they were doing here but the metal parts appear to be quite a bit wrong (unless they are depicting some sort of light cover?)- the kit parts are just fine.





As most people building the BTR-80 kit have mentioned- there are quite a few areas to be filled and sanded when the hull halves are mated. I found most of the join problems were minor, a bit of Vallejo Putty sorted it out just fine. My only real problem was a gap of a few mm’s on the underside of each side. I cut pieces of plastic card and glued them in place before doing some filling with putty and sanding.











Most of the hand-rails in the kit were very flimsy and suffered from a lot of flash. They were also fairly brittle. I replaced most of them with brass rod. The rod on the crew doors on the deck and the commander and driver hatches were added by drilling holes in the mounting parts and running the rod in between and cutting it to length.

Unfortunately the mounting hinges on the kit were mostly all broken off when I received the kit so they were all glued back on. They don’t look quite right though and I think a few people here have described them as ‘toy like’. I simply cut and sanded them down when the glue had set to give a better appearance.

















I think the turret in the BTR-80A kit is actually a newer mould by Zvezda (2004) (unlike the rest of the kit which is a DML copy) and the detail is much better. Unfortunately the Eduard PE set is useless here as it is only for the BTR-80 turret.

Overall the fit of the turret is good except for the access hatch at the front which, when first glued, stands proud of the rest of the turret. This was sanded flush. The other problem is the hydraulic arm for the main gun. The kit part is an accordion bag that, when fitted, would elevate and fix the gun in the most upright position. I didn’t want this so I cut it but it would no longer fit correctly. Then I started to look for more references for the BPPU-1 turret, specifically pictures showing the hydraulic arm.



The kit parts were therefore not quite right anyway, so I used a piece of brass rod and sprue cut to size to model the hydraulic arm and some magic sculpt to model the accordion bag.

I must also say thanks to Jacques here for giving me some info on how smoke grenade launchers work on APC’s. The finished vehicle will be set in a small diorama with a figure and I wanted the smoke grenades to have been used, thus I modelled them hollow using various widths of drill bit to continually widen the hole without breaking the plastic.

I’m hoping to get some primer on tonight and I’m planning to use the AK Interactive 4BO Russian Green color modulation set to do the painting.

The wheels I have already finished in Vallejo US Dark Green for the hubs and Black Grey for the tyres. They’ll be given a coat of matt soon and then weathered.





Well hopefully I’ll make some good painting progress this week. Thanks for reading. Comments etc are very welcome.

-KARL187-
VSRF789
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Samara, Russia
Joined: November 09, 2010
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2011 - 05:44 AM UTC
Nice work!!! I'm vaiting for final!!!
dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2011 - 07:23 AM UTC
WOW Karl that looks fantastic!
looking forward to seeing it with some paint on
Gorizont
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Sachsen, Germany
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2011 - 07:59 AM UTC
Great work so far!
I also planned to buy and build some BTR´s, but I "only" built Dragon´s one.
A good interior for these cars would be my wish.

Go on this great work!
Soeren
17741907
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Istanbul, Turkey / Türkçe
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2011 - 12:57 PM UTC
Will be fine reference...Good work Karl.....Please keep posting....
Karl187
#284
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 12:49 AM UTC
Igor, Dylan, Soeren, Hakan- thanks for your comments guys, much appreciated. I'm working on the primer now- it has shown up a bit of sanding and cleaning I need to do but hopefully I should get some pics up later and then hopefully move on to pre-shading after that.
dvarettoni
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 04:35 AM UTC
hey karl great build what is the bace kit ? it might be me or the pic but is they a seam on the gun ? can't wait to see the paint
dave
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 05:10 AM UTC
Cheers David. The base kit is Zvezda. Good catch on the gun seam- I hadn't noticed until you mentioned it! I think the primer has taken care of it now though.
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 08:52 AM UTC
Okay, primer coat is done. Only a little bit of correcting to do- a few of the filled areas and joins showed up rough on the coat but some further sanding sorted it out. The seam Dave spotted on the gun wouldn't go away under the primer so that needed fixed too. Anyway, heres the pics:















I'm hoping to get a bit of pre-shading done tonight.

Also, I collected a fair bit of references for this build on the internet and I'll try and get the links and pictures posted up soon aswell for anyone else wanting to do an 80 or 80A.

Cheers,

-Karl187-
dvarettoni
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 09:02 AM UTC
No problem Karl glad that you fix it befor it was to late
Are you going to use the AK paints? I just saw mig this past weekend at the amps show in VA he was amazing I'm trying some of this weathering texnecks now I'll post some pic later the build is for the get it done compaign
Dave
Luty
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Russia
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 10:20 PM UTC
Hello Karl!
Unfortunately I later saw this topic.
For BTR-80A was used late type BTR-80 hull. I see you changed front buffers but you has not added the drivers vision port.
At last...you can see this topic about Russian firm Hobbyplanet. And you may email to them on [email protected] (Ivan).
some images of Hobbyplanet items
http://panzer35.ru/forum/25-1406-11
http://panzer35.ru/forum/25-1406-19
http://panzer35.ru/forum/25-1406-22
Hope this helps.
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 01:33 AM UTC
Please do post some pics Dave. I am using AK's set. I saw Iain Hamilton do a tank with the 4BO Green set over on the Painting forum and it came out very well. You should definetly try some of Mig's techniques though, I've been following his example for quite a while now and I'm still amazed by the stuff he puts out.

Taras- a bit too late to start adding things and re-shaping now ! Thanks for the info though, it will be useful if I build another and for anyone else wanting to build one. To be honest I didn't even notice the extra drivers vision port in reference photos- after you mentioned it it jumps out at me . Cheers.

I got the pre-shading done. Basically the idea of this is to coat the areas you want to appear darker or areas you want to contrast a bit- hence I sprayed nooks and crannies, under edges and along weld lines etc. Most of the effect will not be very noticeable once the other coats go on but in the recessed areas etc it should provide a nice shadow and contrast. (Iain Hamilton posted a step by step in 4BO Color Modulation here: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/173965&page=1.)













I should be getting on with the Dark Base sometime today.

Cheers,

-Karl187-

Berkut916
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Kaunas, Lithuania
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 06:32 AM UTC
One serious mistake. Should be shortened to one section of the exhaust pipe casing. on the model 10 sections

Real only 9 sections
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 09:36 AM UTC
Berkut- thats one I never noticed. Another one to add to the reference list!

I'll get the Dark Base coat pictures up tomorrow.
Luty
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 09:42 AM UTC
By the way wheels from SP designs are not very horrible. I did not expect it.
Berkut916
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 09:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

By the way wheels from SP designs are not very horrible. I did not expect it.


Это обновлённые колёса видать, старые были один в один отлиты как в коробке Звезды/Драгона
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 12:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

By the way wheels from SP designs are not very horrible. I did not expect it.



Yeah, I had read one or two negative things about them aswell- but they are damn good.
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 01:13 AM UTC
Unfortunately I had a bit of an accident with my Iwata Revolution last night after I finished the Dark Base coat. As I was cleaning it it fell off my lap and hit the floor. This dented the fluid nozzle and totally messed up the paint feed. I've ordered a new one but it might not arrive for a day or two. I hope to be back on track ASAP.
Anyway, here's some pictures of the Dark Base Coat:















Cheers,

-Karl187-

Jacques
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 10:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

By the way wheels from SP designs are not very horrible. I did not expect it.



Yeah, I had read one or two negative things about them aswell- but they are damn good.



They have recently been remastered from 3D renderings and print-a-part. I have not even seen them yet...and there are 4 sets coming out, including BTR-80A wheels.
dvarettoni
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 09:04 PM UTC
looking good karl like the green i have never try the pre shading i might try on i'm next build can't wait to see this one done
dave
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 11:49 PM UTC
I got the new fluid nozzle yesterday and cracked on with the 4BO Base. With this coat you can start to see the effects of the modulation. In some areas I slightly overdid it, obscuring pretty much all of the Dark Base. The great thing about this set is you can switch paints very quick and re-do anything you think needs it. Anyway, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:


















I'm working on the Light Base coat at the minute so I might have some pictures of that later.

Cheers,

-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 12:14 AM UTC
Very good indeed Karl, I like it a lot


Do you advise AK products?

I've never used them
I want to know more about them


cheers
dylans
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 12:33 AM UTC
now that looks really great Karl
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 05:25 AM UTC
Dave, Dylan, Mauro- Thanks for the comments.

Mauro- I would definetly recommend AK products. So far I have used two of their weathering products and they work brilliantly. And I have to say I am very impressed with this color modulation set. It saves a lot of time not having to mix various shades and since they are ready mixed you don't get a shade slightly 'off', as you may if you mixed paints yourself. This means its easy to go back and correct something or add a little more dark or light color to a particular area.

I managed to get the Light Base finished and I'm about ready to move on to the High Light. Here's the Light Base coat pictures:















At this particular stage I would urge caution in how and where you apply the Light Base. You have to keep in mind there are still two more lighter colors to go so you don't want to make too much too light too fast!! The good thing is you can always go back to the 4BO Base and tone it down as I did in a few places.

Cheers,

-Karl187-
Karl187
#284
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Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 05:53 AM UTC
High Light coat:














The rail on the hull (behind the turret mount) appears lighter here because I wanted to see how the Shine would look if painted on small areas like that.

Just after I applied this coat I was fixing up an area on the turret where I had sprayed High Light but should have been shadow. As I was doing this I noticed it had an interesting effect- if sprayed sparingly over the High Light coat the Dark Base can be used to represent areas of wear and tear- where the metal has been worn and shadowed from use and dirt.

Cheers,

-Karl187-
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