Thanks Pit
Sometime I think that imperfect kits after all are funnier than the other. Of course I don't mean an awful rough model hard to correct and impossible to assembly, but anyway, if you have to correct some flaws or you have to rebuild some details, building could be more creative and enjoyable than making a "shake and bake" high quality kit
cheers
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For discussions related to cold war era Russo-Soviet armor.
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BMD-1 Skif
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Friday, September 23, 2011 - 12:30 AM UTC
Posted: Friday, September 23, 2011 - 12:39 AM UTC
Glad to see you are getting the tricky bits worked out Mauro. I agree with you about these Eastern European kits being enjoyable because they are that bit more of a challenge to do compared to the very newest releases.
bison126
Correze, France
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Posted: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 - 06:56 PM UTC
Mauro,
I got my set of Sector35 tracks yesterday coming from Euromodelshop.
First you can rely on Dan at Euromodelshop.
Second, the tracks are of the Friul type. A few holes will have to be drilled out again and some "flash" to be removed. The typical shape of the horn guide is correct unlike with any other plastic or vinyl sets (Zvezda, Eastern Express, Skif).
I got 200 links in one set and according to the label it is intended for use with any BMD and BTR-D.
I'll check and post pics and probably a review later.
MC resin ones are correct too. I also used Lion Marc resin tracks on my BMD-2, they came with pre-cut solid axis which was really appreciated.
Olivier
I got my set of Sector35 tracks yesterday coming from Euromodelshop.
First you can rely on Dan at Euromodelshop.
Second, the tracks are of the Friul type. A few holes will have to be drilled out again and some "flash" to be removed. The typical shape of the horn guide is correct unlike with any other plastic or vinyl sets (Zvezda, Eastern Express, Skif).
I got 200 links in one set and according to the label it is intended for use with any BMD and BTR-D.
I'll check and post pics and probably a review later.
MC resin ones are correct too. I also used Lion Marc resin tracks on my BMD-2, they came with pre-cut solid axis which was really appreciated.
Olivier
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 - 07:29 PM UTC
Hi Olivier
Yesterday the postman brought me the Masterclub tracks. Me too I bought them at Euromodelshop.( a reliable sites which has a lot of stuff on sale)
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/masterclub/mc35001.htm
They look very good indeed.
I'm quite busy at work these days but anyway I added some other stuff in the hull to stiffen it. As you know in the Skif kit there are two large gaps on the sides which have to be filled. To have good and durable fillings, I prefere working on a sturdier structure.
When i have a little time I'll post some pics
Outstanding model anyway. I hope i'll be able to do something similar
Cheers
Yesterday the postman brought me the Masterclub tracks. Me too I bought them at Euromodelshop.( a reliable sites which has a lot of stuff on sale)
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/masterclub/mc35001.htm
They look very good indeed.
I'm quite busy at work these days but anyway I added some other stuff in the hull to stiffen it. As you know in the Skif kit there are two large gaps on the sides which have to be filled. To have good and durable fillings, I prefere working on a sturdier structure.
When i have a little time I'll post some pics
Outstanding model anyway. I hope i'll be able to do something similar
Cheers
Posted: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 01:25 AM UTC
Hey Oliver thats a nice BMD. I think I'll have to get a set of those Sector 35 tracks aswell, they sound pretty good. Thanks for the info.
Posted: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 02:59 AM UTC
your model is coming along very nicely. good job with the attention to details and scratching them up!
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 04:12 AM UTC
Hi Karl
I was tempted to buy the "sector 35" track links. Eventually I bought the Masterclub product because it was cheaper. Anyway I think that I'll buy some sector 35 product for my next build. For exemple for a T-64...
Thanks a lot Matam. I hope I'll have enough time to finish my build in a reasonable time
Cheers
I was tempted to buy the "sector 35" track links. Eventually I bought the Masterclub product because it was cheaper. Anyway I think that I'll buy some sector 35 product for my next build. For exemple for a T-64...
Thanks a lot Matam. I hope I'll have enough time to finish my build in a reasonable time
Cheers
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 11:52 AM UTC
Hi guys. I've done some little progress
To prevent alignment and filling problems I've glued some other rods in the lower hull....
...and a pair of square rods below the hupper hull
Last Monday Masterclub tracks arrived by mail
They look very nice indeed and they are chaper than the Sector35 ones. Anyway I haven't tried their fitting with the Skif sprocket wheels yet (...I'm crossing my fingers that everything will work... )
Finally, following my reference pics, I did another small detail improvement
Cheers
(Ps pics have been posted for discussion purpose only.)
To prevent alignment and filling problems I've glued some other rods in the lower hull....
...and a pair of square rods below the hupper hull
Last Monday Masterclub tracks arrived by mail
They look very nice indeed and they are chaper than the Sector35 ones. Anyway I haven't tried their fitting with the Skif sprocket wheels yet (...I'm crossing my fingers that everything will work... )
Finally, following my reference pics, I did another small detail improvement
Cheers
(Ps pics have been posted for discussion purpose only.)
Posted: Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:24 AM UTC
Mauro- nice work on that little vent/exhaust hatch. Was the hull of your kit warped- is that why you are using plastic rods? Or is it just to make sure there's no problems in terms of fit?
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:08 AM UTC
Thanks for the kind words Karl
Actually kit parts weren't too warped, but doing a dry fitting I've noticed that the upper hull was too large. There were a misalignments of about 0,5 mm.
Considering that I have to fill a large gap in that position, I put ribs and rods to slightly enlarge the lower hull. Now it seems the two edges match perfectly...at least i hope so
Cheers
Actually kit parts weren't too warped, but doing a dry fitting I've noticed that the upper hull was too large. There were a misalignments of about 0,5 mm.
Considering that I have to fill a large gap in that position, I put ribs and rods to slightly enlarge the lower hull. Now it seems the two edges match perfectly...at least i hope so
Cheers
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 05:37 AM UTC
...quite sad
My job allows to me to buy my stuff, but it doesn't give me enough time to do them...
My job allows to me to buy my stuff, but it doesn't give me enough time to do them...
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 06:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
...quite sad
My job allows to me to buy my stuff, but it doesn't give me enough time to do them...
Me too!
But it is better in some ways (but not all) than the opposite problem
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 07:34 AM UTC
Yes Mike. It would be FAR worse the opposite problem... Because I wouldn't have either the money for the kits (and, of course, not also for them...)....
Anyway sometime I look at my quite plenty stash and I wonder when I'll be able to finish all those projects
However I swear I'll try to update my BMD as soon as possible
Thanks for the comment
jointhepit
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 09:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Anyway sometime I look at my quite plenty stash and I wonder when I'll be able to finish all those projects
SECOND THAT Mauro!!
I'm gonna have to be fit and building till 82 to make mine disappear
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 11:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAnyway sometime I look at my quite plenty stash and I wonder when I'll be able to finish all those projects
SECOND THAT Mauro!!
I'm gonna have to be fit and building till 82 to make mine disappear
Me too....at least 82....
(...82 ? only 82 ?... Hurry up! There is no much time! )
Cheers Pit
MLD
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 12:39 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAnyway sometime I look at my quite plenty stash and I wonder when I'll be able to finish all those projects
SECOND THAT Mauro!!
I'm gonna have to be fit and building till 82 to make mine disappear
AND that assumes I don't buy any more kits between then and now...
yeah, right...
like THAT'S going to happen...
Mike
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 09:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextAnyway sometime I look at my quite plenty stash and I wonder when I'll be able to finish all those projects
SECOND THAT Mauro!!
I'm gonna have to be fit and building till 82 to make mine disappear
AND that assumes I don't buy any more kits between then and now...
yeah, right...
like THAT'S going to happen...
Mike
Well. I think a solution would be being buried with my stash after death....
In that case probably I'll have a little more time to spend
dvarettoni
South Carolina, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 10:20 PM UTC
mauro
great work let just hope that here is a hobby shop were ever you end up
dave
great work let just hope that here is a hobby shop were ever you end up
dave
Stefan94SRB
Belgrade, Serbia & Montenegro
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Posted: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 11:55 PM UTC
Very good! Keep up the good work!
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 03:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
mauro
great work let just hope that here is a hobby shop were ever you end up
dave
Well me too I do hope so.... I wonder where would be the best hobby shops In hell or in paradise....
Thanks for the interest and for the kind words Stefan
I'll post an update soon
seanmcandrews
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 21, 2011 - 12:14 PM UTC
Mauro,
have you seen this walkaround? http://www.photoka.info/bmd/index.htm
the thing that caught my eye is what looks to be a locking mechanism of some sort at the base of the turret right behind the left hand hatch. The second photo shows this well.
Sean
have you seen this walkaround? http://www.photoka.info/bmd/index.htm
the thing that caught my eye is what looks to be a locking mechanism of some sort at the base of the turret right behind the left hand hatch. The second photo shows this well.
Sean
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Friday, October 21, 2011 - 11:24 PM UTC
Yes sean I've already downloaded that walkaround. It depicts an early BMD
You meant this detail didn't you?
Here some other pics
I agree, it could be a locking mechanism. Look here
Anyway, other exemplars which I've seen, didn't have this detail
.
Yesterday I began to open the iposcopes holes on the turret
The hole on the rigt has to be moved about 1mm toward the hatch.
Anyway, the thing which worries me most, is opening the hole between the hatch hinges. There are many details in that zone which could be damaged by the x-acto blade.
If you were me how would you do ?
You meant this detail didn't you?
Here some other pics
I agree, it could be a locking mechanism. Look here
Anyway, other exemplars which I've seen, didn't have this detail
.
Yesterday I began to open the iposcopes holes on the turret
The hole on the rigt has to be moved about 1mm toward the hatch.
Anyway, the thing which worries me most, is opening the hole between the hatch hinges. There are many details in that zone which could be damaged by the x-acto blade.
If you were me how would you do ?
dvarettoni
South Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 21, 2011 - 11:45 PM UTC
Mauro
I think that i might try to score it first and remove it with flat x-acto blade
dave
I think that i might try to score it first and remove it with flat x-acto blade
dave
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 12:02 AM UTC
Hi Dave. That's more or less what I did. I reduced the plastic thickness with a round blade (of corse I dug the turret backside) then I scored the iposcopes contours.
Wouldn't it be a safer method if i drilled a series of small holes around the iposcope?
(PS....Did you get the mail? )
Wouldn't it be a safer method if i drilled a series of small holes around the iposcope?
(PS....Did you get the mail? )
dvarettoni
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Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 07:46 PM UTC
Mauro thanks for the e-mail some great pic i guess that you could drill it. my only thing is that the hole might end up to big ?
dave
dave