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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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My Tiger Ausf. B Final Production Build
Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 07:15 PM UTC
I decided to take a break from my Trumpeter 1/16 KT and take a stab at building a Final Production Tiger Ausf. B, using Hilary Doyle's outstanding 1/35 scale drawings found in T. Jentz's VK45.02.

The base kit is Dragon 6232 KINGTIGER LATE PRODUCTION w/NEW PATTERN TRACK. I also cannibalized Dragon 6303 KINGTIGER Henschel Turret w/Zimmerit for its PE. I also used Aber's 35K01 (Tiger I Deluxe Set) for additional PE detail parts.

After assembling the major components, I proceeded to detail the hull and turret. I added strands of .1mm styrene to better replicate the weld seams on the turret and hull roof. The strands were softened with Plastuct Plastic Weld; then, using a chisel blade, I was able to tuck and shape the strands into the crevises:



After adding some details, I decided to add some texture in order to simulate the imperfections found on rolled homogeneous steel plate. Instead of using the standard Mr. Surfacer method, I opted to use good ol' Model Master Steel Metalizer straight from the bottle. Less mess, tastes better . I used an old sable brush to apply the Metalizer, in fairly thick coats, onto the hull and turret. The lacquer in the Metalizer softens the plastic causing it to form small imperfections on the immediate surface. After the Metalizer dried, I used superfine steel wool to smooth out everything and polish the Metalizer, which is now embedded in the plastic:







The effect is subtle and imparts a fairly realistic representation of rolled armor plate. This method can also be used to replicate the cast texture of the gun shield and the armored exhaust covers.

I like the fact that Dragon 6303 include OEM tools without molded-on tool clasps. This wonderful option permits me to experience full blown insanity, in all its glory, as I try to assemble those impossibly microscopic Aber tool clasps without becoming homicidal. The downside of the tools of Sprue TA is that the handles for the axe, shovel and sledgehammer are plastic. So, what to do about this? Simple! I obtained some logs



turned them on a lathe



did a little carving and ended up with



Wood Eye lie to you?

Seriously though, I carved and sanded cocktail toothpicks (am I allowed to use that word?) to make wooden handles for the axe, sledge (not pictured. My cat got a hold of it after I dropped it prior to the photo being taken. Guess what's on the menu for Christmas dinner?) and shovel. The object to the right of the shovel, If you look closely, is a 1/35 scale 36" baseball bat. It even has a chipped knob. I know Louisville Sluggers weren't standard OEM in the Wehrmacht. The bat will figure prominently in a little (redundant) vignette I'm planning which will be titled "Three Reichs And Yer Out!"

This project is presently on hold because of a small discrepancy regarding the tracks for this vehicle. According to information available, the late and final production Tiger Bs were to be shod with Kgs 73/800/152 single link tracks. The problem I have encountered concerns whether or not this particular track used in March 1945 was asymmetrical or handed. Kit 6232 comes with handed Kgs 73/800/152 track links:

Part F 1, for the right track run and Part F 2, for the left.

Now, if you were to study the turret photos on pp.134-5 of VK45.02 and compare them with Doyle's drawings on pp.136-7, you will see that this tank had to use only asymmetrical tracks. The location/positioning of the studs between the hangers indicates that this is the case.

As I indicated in the photo below, I overlaid Doyle's drawing on top of my build:



The turret hardware was placed in the exact positions as seen in Doyle's drawings and in the aforementioned photos of the turret.

This is a photo of the left side with the links, painted German Camouflage Orange for better visibility, (Part F 2) mounted on the hangers.



This is a photo of the right, with the F 2 links mounted except at the top front. This is an F 1 link, painted German Camo Green:



Looking at the inset, you'll notice tha the green F 1 link doesn't line up with the stud. The orange F 2 links do, though. So, what does that tell me? It tells me that the final production Tiger Bs were to be equipped with asymmetrical, and not handed, tracks. In other words, the track run, as represented by Part F 2, would be "flipped", as were the tracks on the Tiger I, when mounted on the right side. A photo, on p.131 in VK45.02, of a final production Tiger B being bulldozed of a road, VK45.02 shows that this indeed is the case. If there are doubts about this, I'll pose this question:

If the track runs on the last Tiger Bs were handed, why were the stud locations on both sides of the turret positioned to mount only track links which are represented by Part F 2? The German designers were anything but stupid. They had to have come to the conclusion that it would not only be logical, but economical, to use only asymmetrical track links. Sure, Doyle's drawings show handed tracks; but, the stud locations in those same drawings say otherwise. The photos of the last turret also bear this out.

So, what can I do about this track dilemma? Does anyone know if Friul ATL-37, or -92, are handed or not? Does anyone here know of a source for track links which are identical to the kit part F2? Any information would be appreciated. Unlike my Trumpy KT, I'd like to complete this build before my as-of-yet unborn great grandchildren celebrate their 30th birthdays.


CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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Joined: May 14, 2006
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Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 06:37 AM UTC
Looking good so far and I really like the format you have laid your work out in here. Thank you for posting.
Braille
#135
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Joined: August 05, 2007
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Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 11:25 AM UTC
@Headhunter506 – Joseph,

I don’t what to appear to be a PITA but . . . I’m posting this because from what I can see you are after accuracy in your build.


The initial production King Tigers had 10 sets of double threaded rectangular plates welded to the edge of each sloped armor hull side with the 10th one being a single threaded square plate at the rear most position for securing the bolts to retain the armored track guards. Starting in May ’44 all subsequent production King Tigers added one more double threaded rectangular plate located in the center position on the rear most armored track guard. Then again starting in March ’45 two more double threaded rectangular plates were added to each hull side with one being added to the first armored track guards forward position and the other one located in the center position of the last track guard (as shown in the photograph). If you’re going to add the full set of track guards to your build then disregard the above.


The shorter torsion bar for the rear hatch can be found on some late series production Tiger II’s (including the one above, seen from a different angle).

I could be wrong but I don’t believe that these details are mentioned or found on any of the Jenz & Dole prints or text but they are evident in photographs. The dates I mention for the threaded rectangular plates come from identified series production batch Tiger II photographs.

I have a set of the Friulmodel ATL-37 single link Kgs 73/800/152 tracks and they are handed. I don’t know about the ALT-96 tracks.

Perhaps you may already know about Pawel RZYMSKI aka ‘spitfire303 The last Befehlspanzer VI ausf B build it is loaded with plenty of usable and reliable information in case your interested?

Thanks for posting your current build it looks really detailed and ready for paint. I like your method of replicating the armor texturing on your build. Waiting to see how that will turn out once you’ve painted over it but it looks to be the deal. I may just give this a try on my current Panther build for the thinner armored panels, 16 mm thru 40 mm as I’ve already textured the thicker panels with the Mr. Surfacer 500. Excellent tip! Great job on the scratch made items including the 35th scale ‘Babe Ruth’.

Listen, if you like I can send over my two, 5 and 2lbs, Chihuahuas to guard your build and discipline your kitty, they don't have any concept for size (big or small) when it comes to attacking cats or dogs. One plain Carl's Jr. 'Big Burger' (meat only) does the trick for them.

~ Eddy
Braille
#135
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Joined: August 05, 2007
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Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 12:33 PM UTC
Ooops!

"I don’t know about the ALT-96 tracks?' I meant ALT-92 tracks.

~ Eddy
Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
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Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 03:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

@Headhunter506 – Joseph,

I don’t what to appear to be a PITA but . . . I’m posting this because from what I can see you are after accuracy in your build.


The initial production King Tigers had 10 sets of double threaded rectangular plates welded to the edge of each sloped armor hull side with the 10th one being a single threaded square plate at the rear most position for securing the bolts to retain the armored track guards. Starting in May ’44 all subsequent production King Tigers added one more double threaded rectangular plate located in the center position on the rear most armored track guard. Then again starting in March ’45 two more double threaded rectangular plates were added to each hull side with one being added to the first armored track guards forward position and the other one located in the center position of the last track guard (as shown in the photograph). If you’re going to add the full set of track guards to your build then disregard the above.


The shorter torsion bar for the rear hatch can be found on some late series production Tiger II’s (including the one above, seen from a different angle).

I could be wrong but I don’t believe that these details are mentioned or found on any of the Jenz & Dole prints or text but they are evident in photographs. The dates I mention for the threaded rectangular plates come from identified series production batch Tiger II photographs.

I have a set of the Friulmodel ATL-37 single link Kgs 73/800/152 tracks and they are handed. I don’t know about the ALT-96 tracks.

Perhaps you may already know about Pawel RZYMSKI aka ‘spitfire303 The last Befehlspanzer VI ausf B build it is loaded with plenty of usable and reliable information in case your interested?

Thanks for posting your current build it looks really detailed and ready for paint. I like your method of replicating the armor texturing on your build. Waiting to see how that will turn out once you’ve painted over it but it looks to be the deal. I may just give this a try on my current Panther build for the thinner armored panels, 16 mm thru 40 mm as I’ve already textured the thicker panels with the Mr. Surfacer 500. Excellent tip! Great job on the scratch made items including the 35th scale ‘Babe Ruth’.

Listen, if you like I can send over my two, 5 and 2lbs, Chihuahuas to guard your build and discipline your kitty, they don't have any concept for size (big or small) when it comes to attacking cats or dogs. One plain Carl's Jr. 'Big Burger' (meat only) does the trick for them.

~ Eddy



Bingo, Eddy!

You are absolutely correct about those particular details. I apprececiate you pointing those errors out. There was a discussion about those track guard mounting brackets at the Trumpeter 1/16 KT discussion group. A couple fellows pointed out that the brackets on that kit wouldn't be correct if modeling late production hulls. The late production brackets were spaced further apart and, as you keenly observed, there was an additional bracket added to the frontmost and rear-center positions. Also discussed was the length of the first and last track guard sections. The general consensus was that these were the same length. That's one of the reasons I scratchbuilt my own late front mudguards, as seen mounted on the right side. I also knew that I couldn't use any of the current AM sets for the track guards because of this particular idiosyncracy; so, I purchased some thin copper sheets to make my own. I really need to keep track (pun not really intended; but, what the hell ) of what I'm doing. I'm not even going to attempt scratchbuilding the rear mudguards. The Aber set will work plenty good. In a worst case scenario, I might just pony up the additional simolians and purchase two sets of ATL-37s. I have three more KT kits I could fit the unused track links on. On a side note, if I stop smoking, I would have enough money to purchase both DML and Trumpeter.

Good call re the shortened rear hatch torsion bars/guards. I actually modified those parts from kit 6232 when I first started this build. I left them in the box and forgot about them. When I looked at the sprues for those parts later on, I thought that I must've damaged them and proceeded to use the non-zimmerit versions in 6303. That's what happens when using, what basically amounts to chloroform, without ventilation. Both of these corrections doable since the parts in question can be easily removed with the trusty chisel blade

I dunno if your dogs could help. They might actually get corrupted by Raven. Our cat uses our nine year old son as a cat training aid when he practices ambushing prey. Raven will actually chase him through the house and knock him to the ground by leaping onto his back. I'm not kidding. He's also not afraid to mix it up with either my wife or myself when he feels like finding bigger targets. There was an incident requiring police in my building, and, when the cops came by to ask if there was anything that we can add about what transpired, Raven jumped one of the female cops after she walkied in through the front door (why do people insist on calling it that? How many #$%@!*%(& apartments have a back door?!?) I had to stop myself from laughing out loud. I didn't feel like getting tasered at that time in the early morning.


Our trained killer:



That's a 1/16 scale Bruder Mack Tractor with a backhoe on the flatbed he's standing next to.

He's a lot bigger now, by the bye.
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