@BBD468 – Gary,

Looking good Gary!

Pin Wash
With the exception of the odorless Turpenoid I’m using a similar custom pin wash mixture. However, I will need to airbrush a Future coat over the base color(s) after applying them, as my pin wash has a hard time of flowing around some of the details and I think this is due to the insufficient amount of gloss I’m mixing into the base colors. The advantage to using the odorless Turpenoid is in the drying time and the disadvantage is in the inability of being able to store the mixture for any length of time as it dries out the oil paints leaving them chalky. So I have to mix up a small batch every time I pin wash a kit.

Flat Coat
Your mix ratio is dead on, as it leaves the finish with a slight semi-gloss sheen. The oil dot fading should add that little extra amount of sheen to the finish to have it looking like painted metal.

Filter
As far as the filter, well that’s your call. I added a very transparent filter on my last build to tie in all of the colors before the paint fading and was happy with the results. Because the filter was extremely transparent I was thinking that I had wasted time for nothing. The next day after the filter had thoroughly dried is when you could faintly see it. Even after the oil dot fading you could still see the filter underneath. You probably already know this but any filter that you will be applying over the finish; either before the paint fading or after will darken the finish. Hence the more filters you use the darker your finish will become. If you do go with the filter I would listen to your nephew and chose a brown for yellow filter (light brown).

The flat coat, filter and paint fading will come to good advantage should you go and apply pigments as this will give the pigments something to grab onto. Incidentally, the build in question does not sport a camouflage paint scheme. I used different shades of the same color to produce the fading with the airbrush as part of the base color.


72nd scale North Vietnamese T34-85M.

Received my Iwata High Performance HP-C Plus airbrush tonight but without any lube? I’ll need to outsource some lube for an airbrush. Need to get further on my build before I can use it.


















Not being of the most perfect, nor totally understanding and thoughtful of humans to walk upon this earth, I have to believe that half the blame for a failed marriage of 12 years is also mine, with the last two years of it resembling Springer show episodes. The 40oz cans of beer, to help numb the pain, only attributed to the loss of so many more brain cells during that period of my life! I was once asked, if I had ever been bitten by a dog? By comparison to the present marriage that I’m currently and happily involved in, I was completely ripped off!

~ Eddy

Hi Eddy,

thanks so much for the in depth info. im starting to lean in the direction of the light filter (brown). my pin wash flows nicely over the future gloss.

The T34/85 is awsome looks 1/48. ive done one 1/72nd scale tiger and it wasnt an easy affair. well done Eddy!

If you have trouble finding Iwata lube, badger makes whats called needle juice. i hear its really good lube.



Im 43 yrs old. i lost nearly 20 of those years doing crazy, stupid things. had a bit*h of a wife, now divorced for several years. ive quit smoking, drinking, and other things. so ive been clean and sober for 6 or so years. but knowing what i now know about the good things in life, and being who i am now. i wouldnt trade any of the crazy stuff i did. im older, wiser, and a very happy man. and i dearly love building models and sharing with these wonderfull people here in this community. and i wouldnt even have started modeling again were it not for my nephew. i Know you guys are not my psycologist, and i may have way over shared my personal life, but it is what it is, and there it is.

I want to give a shout out to my friend Phil. Thanks man!:-H

now if i owe anyone for the psycotherapy session, just PM me the bill. im not sure what the going rate is, but please take it easy on me. my wallet is thin!

Gary

Right on brother! I'm there!

gary can't wait to see the weathering if you like my two cents leave out the filter
dave

Either do I

Hey Gary I just want to tell you how much I have been enjoying your build. I have been divorced for about 3 months now after a 31 year marraige. I thought everything was alright. But she left me for someone she works with. So I found out that nothing is forever. I too have returned to modeling to clear my mind and forget the pain. Thanks for you build again.

Hi all,

Phil - Thanks man!

David, Mauro - I have decided not to aplly a filter now. with the colors im useing to fade with i think i would loose the effect anyways. if it becomes too faded i then can bring it back a bit with a filter.

Robert - I feel you man! modeling brings me sweet peace and harmony. Thanks for the kind words and for following along.

Here are some pics of the engine deck faded. i think i might need to disperse the oil paint a bit more in a couple places, but overall i think thats as far as im gonna go with it now. gonna finish the rest of the T-62 right qwik. there will be lots of chipping weathering to come.



did the fuel tanks and rear fenders aswell in the last pic.
Thanks for looking!

Gary

Looking forward to how your filter turns out. Glad you posted a photo of how to apply a filter with oils. I will be trying this on my panzer.

NIIIICE! I was wondering if I was doing this right. This is exactly what I wanted to see thanks alot Gary!

I am your padawan
Your work is just superb and your techniques are pushing me to the next level.

Thanks for sharing Gary.

Phil

Thanks Matt! didnt think of it at the time but better late then never.
This is what i use for washes and for dispersing the oil dots when fading.

I get it at wal mart.

Gary

Phil - WHAT! does that mean im a yoda? or an obi-wan?
Thanks man! we can all learn from each other.

MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU PHIL!!!

I was thinking of Qui gon jiin or Mace windu (the hair cut )
haha
Phil

[/quote] I was thinking of Qui gon jiin or Mace windu (the hair cut )
haha
Phil[/quote]

Mace Windu it is then!

Thats hillarious Phil! you made me laugh hard man!

Thats good stuff!

Hi all,

ive gone as far on fading as im gonna go. while the tank dries a day or so im gonna try and finish weathering under the fenders and side hull as well as finish weathering the tracks. after that is done its chipping time! thats gonna take a while. here are a couple pics of it now.



Thanks for looking!

Gary (AKA Mace Windu)

Gary,
Great build been following along quietly but really superb work. Good for you for having the cahones to post that, takes a man that has come to his full realization of self to be able to do that. Cheers and keep it up looking forward to more on this build.

Hi Damon,

Thanks man! i appreciate that. just felt right at the time. i felt it...i went for it. ive only shared more detail with my friend Phil (asmodeuss), hes a good fella.
Thanks for the nice comments on the build man. hope to hear more from ya. We gents with much baggage must stick together!!!

Gary

Excellent Gary! The oil dots method gives a perfect look to your T-62. There is no original paint stain remaining. When I do it myself, I always have trouble with my white leaving whitish spots even if I use a significant amount of thinner!
Keep on the weathering and show us a winner.

Olivier

Great job Master Windu
Can you detail your work on the tracks I would like to see proper weathering technique regarding tracks.

Thanks Gary

Phil

Gary- I love doing Oil Dots...obviously you do aswell! What a finish you've managed to get from this method, truly awesome.

Hi gentlemen,

Olivier, Karl - Thanks for the kind words! i could have went a bit more but i held back. cant take it back if you go too far and screw it up.

Phil - I tend to keep i simple when i do dusty and dirty on running gear and the like. just my personal preference.
in the pic ive sprayed a thin coat of XF-57 Buff on the side hull and under the fenders. ive taken mig pigments PO37 Gulfwar sand and PO30 Beach Sand and stippled on the two colors randomly. i made sure to grind the pigments into the surface as good as i could. i then made a wash with Raw Umber pretty thin almost consistancy of a filter and applied the wash with a flat wide brush only dampened with the mix in downward strokes. this is what i have so far. the lighting makes it look a bit darker in the pic but im satisfied as is.

I will take pics when i do the tracks and try to explain a SBS.
Thanks for looking!

Gary

Great work Gary! nice effect, very convincing.

Phil.

Hi All,

Hey Phil - Thanks man! its simple, but so am I.

in this pic im apllying a mixture of mig pigments decribed above with mineral spirits basicly like a wash and then let it dry.


I applied the same mix and spirits to the wheels only this time with more mineral spirits so to let it flow better with less pigments. make sense?


I have glued the tracks on, but before i did, i apllied a raw umber wash to the tracks and wheels after pigments dried because i thought the results were to light. after the wash dried i began to aplly graphite to the tracks on the cleets and apropriate areas. some of the paint started chipping off a bit on the cleets so i decided to dry brush some silver on instead. i would have a pic of this but didnt realize the pic was blury before i already glude the tracks on. anyways, ill go back with graphite and more pigments on tracks before im finnished with the model.




there was an un forseen problem with building the tracks the way i did. after glueing track links and wheels together and leting them dry overnight i test fitted them many times with no problems. after primeing, painting, clearing, and weathering i think the tracks shrank or tightend a bit. one side barely fit and the other side broke just as it was about to seat in place.


I got the top mated back up ok but have the gap you see on the bottom. everything has been going so smoothly i was wondering when something would bite me in the a*s!

thanks for looking!

Gary

Hi all,

Question? Before the Syrian army would aquire a T-62 and aplly camo, would the T-62 be a russian green? if so, in that era would the russian green be medium or a dark green? want to make sure before i begin chipping process.

Thanks!
Gary

Gary awsome build there, been following along and can't wait to see this one finished.

My understanding and I could be wrong, but I'm 99% sure that vehicle left russian factories in their standard green, Once in the country that bought them, they applied their own camo to the tank. You can look at iraqi tank and see some of the original russian green chipping threw the new camo. As for the green I say i could use a medium or dark green and be fine with that. I think russian green was 4b0, but there has been a big debat over what exact color to use for it. Here is just an example

I agree with Christopher, they were sold in dark green then it was applied a camo scheme on them, but color was not 4bo green (a green which looks like an olive drab) because it wasn't anymore produced after the early fifties. In the sixties and seventies Russian tanks were painted in a green close to federal standard 34102 (Air valleyo Russian green 71017 is the most similar one)

However if you look at the closer pics seen at the beginning of the thread, you can notice that chipping tend to look dark rust rather than green.



You can also look here for other closer pics

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/carl_dennis/t-62_model_1972/

In this pic you can notice some little stain of 34102 green (below on the right), but as you can see actually there are very few of them



Here there is probably a larger stain (rigt under the spare track link)



A great job so far Gary, congrats again!