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SdKfz 7/2 armored cab - WIP
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 03:24 AM UTC
After a couple of months away from the bench, this Dragon SdKfz 7/2 was thrown together over the past couple weeks. I've got it broken down into sub assemblies to ease painting, but put most of it together for the photos. It's a basic out of the box build, only improvements were a tarp to cover the driver's compartment, and a Lion Roar 3.7cm barrel.








But I need some input from the crowd...


I really want to try out AK Interactive's "Worn Effects", basically their product to simulate the hairspray technique, but in a more controlled, consistent way. I've never done the hairspray technique before, so this is all new territory.

So...choices...

1. Spray worn effects, then spray with green and red brown. Chip/scrap that.

2. Skip the green and red brown and do a whitewash.

3. Combine both of the above, worn effects -> red brown and green -> worn effects -> whitewash

asmodeuss
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 01:22 AM UTC
Hi Jesse, Very nice looking half track you got there
For my part I would choose the first option. But this is only because I like my model less weathered. I've seen a couple of worn effect by AK interactive and they are nice. Maybe you could also avoid spraying it all over for a more realistic effect. That said, if you like heavy weathering
there is some alternative to white wash there a good links here:
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/german/jbpaint/jbpaint.htm

Ok, I'm getting all over your thread...sorry! Bottom line, It looks great, i'm sure you know wich one you would prefer. Keep it up mate!

Phil.
BBD468
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 02:16 AM UTC
Hi Jesse,

Your build looks great! However ive not done the hair spray method either. I practiced it once but had the wrong kind of hairspray and it didnt work out as you can imagine. I have not used an AK stuff either so im no help there. Is the white wash a must or just an idea? I would definately practice any new techniques on an old kit. Maybe you should just go with what you know works best for you and your personal methods. I have an Su 100 that im gonna do a hairspray and winter white wash on it but since i dont have a clue its on hold. Geezz! I wish i was more help to you bro.
I would agree with Phil and go for choice one.

Gary
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 02:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Jesse, Very nice looking half track you got there
For my part I would choose the first option. But this is only because I like my model less weathered. I've seen a couple of worn effect by AK interactive and they are nice. Maybe you could also avoid spraying it all over for a more realistic effect. That said, if you like heavy weathering
there is some alternative to white wash there a good links here:
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/german/jbpaint/jbpaint.htm

Ok, I'm getting all over your thread...sorry! Bottom line, It looks great, i'm sure you know wich one you would prefer. Keep it up mate!

Phil.



Hey Phil!

I'm not really one for extremely heavy weathering, but it's something I've never really played with. I want to 'expand the arsenal' of tools I can use, hence this project is a bit of an experiment. I've got 2 projects coming up... one that will be a full whitewash (Jan '45), and the other that will have some somewhat heavy wear/chipping (North Africa), so this is my test bed to get a feel before tackling those projects that I want to concentrate on.

I had previously read that article from Missing Lynx. It's a good article. This is another good one from ML: http://missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 02:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Jesse,

Your build looks great! However ive not done the hair spray method either. I practiced it once but had the wrong kind of hairspray and it didnt work out as you can imagine. I have not used an AK stuff either so im no help there. Is the white wash a must or just an idea? I would definately practice any new techniques on an old kit. Maybe you should just go with what you know works best for you and your personal methods. I have an Su 100 that im gonna do a hairspray and winter white wash on it but since i dont have a clue its on hold. Geezz! I wish i was more help to you bro.
I would agree with Phil and go for choice one.

Gary



I've never done anything like this. Hence looking for input from the gallery.

Thanks for responding Gary.
BBD468
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 03:01 AM UTC
Hey Jesse,

If this is the test bed for future builds then that makes all the difference. I would then say test away man! Not to mention we who dont have a clue, as in ME, would benefit from watching your progress. I for one, will follow very close and take notes should you choose to test weathering methods. Model on man!

Gary
Big-John
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 11:35 AM UTC
Hi Jesse,

How do you like that kit? I just bought one and received it in the mail the other day.

As the others have said, I have never done the hairspray thing, so I wouldn’t be of much help. From what I have heard with the AK chipping fluid though, its best to apply in 3 thin coats, not to heavy, but thin coats.

Base color, clear sealer, chipping fluid, then secondary color. If your going with a third color, apply a clear sealer, then more chipping fluid, then the third color. The clear sealer will keep from rubbing through the under laying layers.

Your best bet would be to ask your questions here. http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 01:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Jesse,

How do you like that kit? I just bought one and received it in the mail the other day.

As the others have said, I have never done the hairspray thing, so I wouldn’t be of much help. From what I have heard with the AK chipping fluid though, its best to apply in 3 thin coats, not to heavy, but thin coats.

Base color, clear sealer, chipping fluid, then secondary color. If your going with a third color, apply a clear sealer, then more chipping fluid, then the third color. The clear sealer will keep from rubbing through the under laying layers.

Your best bet would be to ask your questions here. http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?



Hey John. Nice to see you stopping by. I guess I poorly communicated my question. I know how to do what I want to do. I just don't know WHAT I want to do.

As far as the kit, it's a really nice kit. In reality, the Dragon barrel and flash suppressor is actually very nicely done, and with a little work look as good as the brass version.

1) The interior has a good amount of detail, although no decals for the instruments (Archer has a set). Also, unless you're modeling it with the doors/top hatches open, you'll never really see any of it due to the armored cab.

2) the main chassis had a warp in it. I've read this is pretty common with the kit.

3) you really need to pay attention to part #'s between the museum, wooden sides, and mesh sides options. I accidentally used the museum piece for one part, and for the rest of the build, I had to follow that line of the build, as the other pieces are close, but won't fit correctly.

4) there's no ammo cans at all for the flak gun, and you'll have to grab some nylon string for the winch assembly.

5) I liked the Magic tracks. Went together well, and they were basically the perfect length to make it look like dead track without going overboard.

6) If I remember correctly, the part #s for the drive sprockets are reversed... left to right and right to left.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 06:11 AM UTC
quick update... been doing a little bit of detail painting over the last couple nights, so not a lot of progress. Just getting the tire rubber painted, and other boring things.

From there, the plan is to add decals, put on a coat of dullcote, then brown and green, then chip that. Then another coat of dull, then the whitewash, and then chip that. I want to have a number of layers as this vehicle will represent one that's been around awhile.
BBD468
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Posted: Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 06:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

quick update... been doing a little bit of detail painting over the last couple nights, so not a lot of progress. Just getting the tire rubber painted, and other boring things.

From there, the plan is to add decals, put on a coat of dullcote, then brown and green, then chip that. Then another coat of dull, then the whitewash, and then chip that. I want to have a number of layers as this vehicle will represent one that's been around awhile.



Hi Jesse,

Good luck to you man. You will do a fantastic job, i just know it. Looking forward to your progress.

Gary
Big-John
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Posted: Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 10:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey John. Nice to see you stopping by. I guess I poorly communicated my question. I know how to do what I want to do. I just don't know WHAT I want to do.



LOL, Sorry Jess, It sounds like you have it under control. Thanks for the tips.

I'll be following this one.
Totalize
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Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 08:12 AM UTC
Jesse,



I would go with option 3.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 03:00 AM UTC
Thanks Dave. That's the plan right now. Today being Mother's Day probably won't net a lot of progress, but I should make some progress in the next week.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 - 11:18 PM UTC
Up late last night doing the 'worn effects', then the camo, and then wearing the finish. I should be able to get some pictures up tonight after the kids go to bed. First time I had ever used this sort of technique, but overall, I think it turned out well. You guys can see for yourself about 14 hours from now.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 01:14 PM UTC
Well, here we go. I think it looked better at 1:30 am last night than it does now. That said, you gotta learn somehow, and that's the entire point of this project. I've since hit it with another coat of dullcoat which is drying now. After which I'll do another layer of 'worn effects', and then do the white. I do need to check that I have enough white actually... haha. Anyway, here are the pictures so far.






BBD468
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 01:28 PM UTC
Hi Jesse,

Great job so far man! Did you use AK stuff or hairspray? I dont know anthing about this type method either, so I want to learn as well. Looking forward to the next update.

Gary
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 01:32 PM UTC
This stuff:



It's advertised to work like hairspray, except more consistent and controllable. It would work well for you Gary since you spray Tamiya with lacquer thinner. Since I don't, I have to put down Testor's Dullcoat between layers so it doesn't have an effect on the base coat.
BBD468
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 01:50 PM UTC
Thanks Jesse! Im watching this close so i can attempt my first white wash weathering method on an SU-100 sometime in the future.

Gary
Big-John
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 02:09 PM UTC
Once the filters and weathiring go on, I think it will look just fine Jess.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 02:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Once the filters and weathiring go on, I think it will look just fine Jess.



Thanks John. I agree with you. Models never "look right" at this stage.

The 'worn effects' is drying right now, then it's time to start the white.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 04:17 PM UTC
And here we are...










I'm not sure what I think. I like certain aspects. I dislike other aspects. Having never done this with hairspray, I cannot compare. When spraying the 'worn effects', it wasn't leveling well for me. Kinda dries beaded up, like rain marks on a car that you can see after they're dry. Which gives very consistent chips. I've emailed Iain at AK to see if they've got any advice.
collin26
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 04:43 PM UTC
Jesse,
I like that model! However, some aspects of the "Worn Effect" look great while others...not as great.
Here are 2 things that I notice based on the photos and what have to say.
1. Spray your top color over the "Worn Effect" while it is wet... I know it sounds incorrect but this is the way. The more you let the effect dry, the less effective it will be.
2. The "Worn Effects", the "Heavy Chipping" and plain old hairspray will work best when used 1 section at a time. When you apply the Chipping Fluids all at once over the entire model, it becomes difficult to paint your top color and then treat with water & work the surface all at once and at the same time. We loose control this way & the Chipping Fluids & top color of paint have dried & cured to different extents.
That is to say that if you apply the Chipping Effects all at once and then the top color to the entire model and then begin to work with water, the area we start with will be more fresh and the area were we finish will be more dried and cured. This will cause the area that we begin with to behave different than the area where we finish.
Also, humidity will play a factor in any dry time for anything we airbrush, please keep this in mind!
OK, if I failed to answer any question, please let me know.
Regards,
I. Hamilton
AK Interactive USA
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 01:48 PM UTC
Thanks Iain! I'm still deciding what to do... maybe strip the whole thing try again.
BBD468
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 02:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Iain! I'm still deciding what to do... maybe strip the whole thing try again.



Hey Jesse,

Man, im sorry that didnt workout the way you wanted. It does have some nice effects in areas but i see where it beaded up on you. It is a learning experience and i know you will bounce right back and and KILL IT!!! Good luck Jesse, im still takeing notes.

Gary
dvarettoni
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 07:04 PM UTC
Jesse great start is ther any way to just strip the white and save the bace paint????
dave
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