Better known as the SA-13 "Gopher"
Like Jacques is doing with his SU-100 I will doing the same with the Skif Strela. But first an introduction from globalsecurity.org
The 9K35M STRELA-10M (S-10M) surface-to-air missile system is intended to defend troops from enemy air attacks in all sorts of combat activities. Its NATO code name is SA-13 GOPHER.
The combat assets of the system consist of the 9A34 and 9A35 combat vehicles and 9M37 anti-aircraft missiles. Technological assets include a test station, technological maintenance equipment, operator´s simulator, a dummy missile (a weight equivalent of the real missile), a training missile, and an operator´s checking device. The MT-LB light armoured tracked vehicle provides the entire system with excellent cross-country capabilities.
The combat vehicles have been gradually modernised; the upgrade consists in installation of a new command workplace (PVK-10M). The PVK-10M provides for reception and processing of data files and information on air situation. It enables turning of the launcher against the selected target according to data sent from a command post or directly from the radar. The PVK-10M software also provides for the control of individual devices of the combat vehicle; moreover, it enables to use the system in a simulator regime and it provides for the operation of the 9F75 control device which, as a result, doesn´t have to be awkwardly connected to the vehicle during combat fire. To ensure a credible identification of air targets, the original transponder system KREMNYJ-2 used in S-10M vehicles is being substituted by the MARK XII.
The 9M37 missile with an infrared guidance unit and a solid propellant engine enables maximum speed of Mach 2 and it is capable of hitting a target flying at up to Mach 1.25. The missile uses a 6 kg HE-fragmentation core warhead. A container is used for safe storage and transportation of the missile, its connection to the launcher, aiming and launching. Some combat vehicles are fitted with a 9S16 radio direction finder for air target acquisition. The range of detection provides for a sufficient set-up time for turning the combat vehicle´s turret and launcher towards the target.
The SA-13 GOPHER [ZRK-BD Strela-10] is a short-range, low altitude SAM system. The SA-13 missile (9M37) is 2.2 m long, 0.12 m in diameter with a 0.4 m wingspan and has a maximum speed of Mach 2. It carries a 5 kg HE warhead and is fitted with either an improved passive lead sulfide all-aspect infra-red seeker unit, or a cryogenically cooled passive all-aspect infra-red seeker unit. The estimated minimum range of the SA-13 is 500 meters and the maximum effective range of 5000 meters with altitude engagement limits of 10 to 3500 meters.
The SA-13 Strela-10M3 variant is designed to defend troops on the march from low level aircraft and helicopters, precision-guided munitions and reconnaissance RPVs. The major change is the adoption of a dual mode guidance system for the missile seeker - optical 'photo-contrast' and dual band passive IR. The 9M333 missile weighs 42 kg at launch and when in its container-launcher the box-like canister has a total mass of 74 kg. Target acquisition range using the optical 'photo-contrast' channel is between 2000-8000 meters while for the IR channel it is between 2300-5300 meters. Altitude engagement limits are from 10 meter up to 3500 meters at a maximum range of 5000 meters. Average missile speed is 550 m/s. The HE-fragmentation rod warhead weighs 5 kg in total (including 2.6 kg of HE) and uses both contact and active laser proximity fusing systems. The actuation radius of the proximity fuse is up to 4 meters. The dual mode passive optical 'photo-contrast/IR seeker ensures good IR decoy counter-countermeasures discrimination capability and optimum use of the system against extremely low altitude targets and in adverse weather conditions.
The SA-13 incorporates the range-only HAT BOX radar which provides the operator the targets range to the system to prevent wastage of missiles outside the effective range of the system. The HAT BOX circular parabolic radar antenna is located between the two pairs of missile canisters.
There are two versions of the SA-13 transporter erector launcher and radar (TELAR). The TELAR-1 carries four FLAT BOX B passive radar detection antenna units, one on either corner of the vehicle's rear deck, one facing aft and one between the driver's vision ports at the front, whereas the TELAR-2, which is used by the SA-13 battery commander, has none. The SA-13 TELAR is a modified MT-LB amphibious armored tracked vehicle with the machine-gun turret removed. The launcher pedestal mounted to the rear of center of the vehicle is 360º traversable. It incorporates the operators position behind a large, rectangular window at its base.
Normally the TELAR carries four ready to fire SA-13 missile container-launchers and eight reloads in the cargo compartment but it can also carry either SA-9 GASKIN container-launcher boxes in their place or a mixture of the two. This enables the the cheaper SA-9 (Strela-1) to be used against the easier targets and the more expensive and sophisticated SA-13 (Strela-10) against the difficult targets. The missile mix also allows a choice of infra-red (IR) seeker types on the missiles for use against extremely low altitude targets and in adverse weather.
Small photo from the Box-art Box-Art
The overall quality is average. It's a good start and it will build into a good model but it can really use some AM and scratching. And a total make-over is offcourse much more fun So I took the Eduard exterior set and the Miniarm MT-LB wheel set. To replace the kit tracks I will use the Gvozdika/MT-LB friul set.
So, what's in the box then?
As you can see the parts are very basic so I will try to improve them. Man, I'm really exited to start on this one!
See you on the next update!
Jurjen
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Build Log Skif 9K35M STRELA-10M
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 02:32 AM UTC
Jacques
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
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Joined: March 04, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 07:41 PM UTC
Get to it Jurjen.
But if you finish the SA-13 before I get my su-100 done...
But if you finish the SA-13 before I get my su-100 done...
chefchris
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 06, 2006
KitMaker: 1,544 posts
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Joined: February 06, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 09:43 PM UTC
Built this kit OOTB - and really enjoyed it! Details are alittle on the chunky side, but with the Eduard set and the AM wheels/track it should be really nice!
Thanks for the post.
Chris
Thanks for the post.
Chris
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Monday, May 21, 2007 - 01:46 AM UTC
Hi guys!
Lol Jacques, that would be a really tough job!
Today I have been busy with the lower and upperhull. It wasn't a good fit so~I spend this afternoon to correct it. The back of the upperhull was slightly warped. I replaced the kitparts on the photo below by evergreen sheet. Because the kitparts did not fit properly and is lacking detail.
Added some small strips for extra strenght.
This is the rear of the hull. I need to sand the etches for a smoother finish and I need to fill some very small gaps. Nothing serious though.
The kit part didn't fit so I made a new one from evergreen. I love that stuff! Some evergreen on the sides was used to hide the gap between the upper and lower hull.
So this is the end result sofar after, I guess, 4 hours of work.
Well, this is it. Next step will be to smooth the etches and fill some gaps.
Thanks for your interest!
Jurjen
Lol Jacques, that would be a really tough job!
Today I have been busy with the lower and upperhull. It wasn't a good fit so~I spend this afternoon to correct it. The back of the upperhull was slightly warped. I replaced the kitparts on the photo below by evergreen sheet. Because the kitparts did not fit properly and is lacking detail.
Added some small strips for extra strenght.
This is the rear of the hull. I need to sand the etches for a smoother finish and I need to fill some very small gaps. Nothing serious though.
The kit part didn't fit so I made a new one from evergreen. I love that stuff! Some evergreen on the sides was used to hide the gap between the upper and lower hull.
So this is the end result sofar after, I guess, 4 hours of work.
Well, this is it. Next step will be to smooth the etches and fill some gaps.
Thanks for your interest!
Jurjen
SK2
Florida, United States
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 94 posts
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Posted: Monday, May 21, 2007 - 07:53 AM UTC
I got mine 3 wks ago. Had the same fit problems. I feel your pain . I drilled out the face on part H 191 the missile operators compartment working on adding the interior detail (as seen in the pic). Part H 121 is supposed to be bullet proof glass (see link below). Working on that as well. They are supposed to look like this. It may be me but I think it looks better this way. I may a fig (as shown in pic). Anyway. Good Luck on your build. http://pvo.guns.ru/foto/yugo/yugo22.htm . sk2
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Monday, May 21, 2007 - 12:14 PM UTC
Ha yes, the missile launcher,....
Part 119 is definately going to drilled out or maybe I will try to make a new one. Hehe yes, the bullet proof glas was a good laugh. Thanks for the photo, didn't had that one. Maybe you have some photos from your build?
Jurjen
Part 119 is definately going to drilled out or maybe I will try to make a new one. Hehe yes, the bullet proof glas was a good laugh. Thanks for the photo, didn't had that one. Maybe you have some photos from your build?
Jurjen
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 11:44 PM UTC
Hi Guys!
Now the basic shapes are done this time some small details. Nothing fancy though
The edge will receive some bolts.
If I need to scratch a small part I cut the parts a little too large.
Then cut the edges.
If you still have some small seams to can use putty to fill them. When the putty dried you can remove it by a sharp knife or sand it.
The last thing I did was applying a small layer of Tamiya Thin Cement to smooth the surface.
Cheers!
Jurjen
Now the basic shapes are done this time some small details. Nothing fancy though
The edge will receive some bolts.
If I need to scratch a small part I cut the parts a little too large.
Then cut the edges.
If you still have some small seams to can use putty to fill them. When the putty dried you can remove it by a sharp knife or sand it.
The last thing I did was applying a small layer of Tamiya Thin Cement to smooth the surface.
Cheers!
Jurjen
SK2
Florida, United States
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 94 posts
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Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 10:02 AM UTC
Jurjen. This is where I'm at with my build. . Used squads-grn putty to fill gaps and marks Just have to sand smooth.This is 191 drilled out. I may have to scrap this and scratch a new one I don't think a fig upper torso will fit it looks to small out of scale. .Btw the 2 parts that you scratched on the upper hull what are they ? Looking good. Sk2
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 12:42 PM UTC
Nice one!
I see your hull was pretty warped too Good job on drilling out the "cockpit". I do not know if I will try to make a new one or leave it as it is. One thing, part 123H is not fitted right, the hatch should be leveled with the rest of the hull:
So maybe a small hammer will do the trick
The part with the PE is I think the engine exhaust but that little thing from evergreen, I have no idea Jacques, Gary.....?
I just ordered some Friuls and when they arive I will start on the suspension. I will make a small update today on how to solder PE.
Jurjen
I see your hull was pretty warped too Good job on drilling out the "cockpit". I do not know if I will try to make a new one or leave it as it is. One thing, part 123H is not fitted right, the hatch should be leveled with the rest of the hull:
So maybe a small hammer will do the trick
The part with the PE is I think the engine exhaust but that little thing from evergreen, I have no idea Jacques, Gary.....?
I just ordered some Friuls and when they arive I will start on the suspension. I will make a small update today on how to solder PE.
Jurjen
Johnston_RCR
Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 01, 2006
KitMaker: 470 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 24, 2007 - 01:25 AM UTC
I'll be watching this thread with much interest Jurjen. I've been thinking about ordering a few Skif kits for a while, especially this particular one. Its nice to see all the trouble I want to get myself into
Good luck on the rest, its shaping up nicely so far!
Good luck on the rest, its shaping up nicely so far!
Erik67
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 24, 2007 - 02:45 AM UTC
Interesting build log Jurjen. I bought a stack of Skif kits on sale a while ago with the intention to build them as shot up wrecks for some OIF dios I have in mind. I built a MT-LB oob just to see how they goes together, but I changed the tracks for a spare pare of Fruil 2S1 tracks since I did not like the kits supplied vinyl tracks very much.
Erik
Erik
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Friday, May 25, 2007 - 08:32 PM UTC
Hi guys!
Received the Friuls today! Whohooooooe
If I need to connect two pieces of PE I always solder it. The joint is much stronger (it doesn't "snap" when you superglue it) and the joint is much smoother. When you made a mistake on positioning the pieces just heat it again and try again!
Just fun and easy to do. I made a small SBS to explain what I mean.
So what do you need?
-Soldering Station (cost me about 14 euros +/- 20 dollars)
-Flux (to let the solder better flow)
-Solder
-wooden plate (to solder on)
-Small brush (old brush to apply flux)
-Sandpaper to sand the joint afterwards)
As I told you, very much fun to do and once you "discovered" it you will never superglue metal pieces again!
Oke, back to the strela:
Not much progress. Made a new frame from brass and made some side thingies. No idea what their function is.
Thanks for your interest!
Jurjen
Received the Friuls today! Whohooooooe
If I need to connect two pieces of PE I always solder it. The joint is much stronger (it doesn't "snap" when you superglue it) and the joint is much smoother. When you made a mistake on positioning the pieces just heat it again and try again!
Just fun and easy to do. I made a small SBS to explain what I mean.
So what do you need?
-Soldering Station (cost me about 14 euros +/- 20 dollars)
-Flux (to let the solder better flow)
-Solder
-wooden plate (to solder on)
-Small brush (old brush to apply flux)
-Sandpaper to sand the joint afterwards)
As I told you, very much fun to do and once you "discovered" it you will never superglue metal pieces again!
Oke, back to the strela:
Not much progress. Made a new frame from brass and made some side thingies. No idea what their function is.
Thanks for your interest!
Jurjen
SK2
Florida, United States
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 94 posts
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Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 05:16 AM UTC
Thanks for the heads up on 123 and 158 . I just looked at the plans and some more ref pics I had it backwards. I put it on top of the hull its supposed to be put on from under the hull forced through the holes for the hatch.. I like what you did with 145 and 142. One ? I see parts 38 (the window armour plates) are supposed to be level with the front hull as well. Their is a little gap it can be seen from the sides. I can't get it flat so that its level with the hull. How do you plan on fixing it? Or did I do something wrong Thanks sk2
newnikonian
India / भारत
Joined: July 28, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 08:37 AM UTC
Looking great Jurjen
Nice clean build and great scraching
Nice clean build and great scraching
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 03:05 PM UTC
Hi Guys!
Small update. the miniarm wheels and the friuls are put in place:)
@SK2: I see what you mean about the front hatches, thanks for the pointer!!
http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=118
When you will close the hatches like on the photo is would be very easy. Just use the PE part (I do not know how it fits yet) or cut a plate from some evergreen sheet. You don't need to fill that gap because it belongs there. Hope this helps?
Cheers,
Jurjen
Small update. the miniarm wheels and the friuls are put in place:)
@SK2: I see what you mean about the front hatches, thanks for the pointer!!
http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=118
When you will close the hatches like on the photo is would be very easy. Just use the PE part (I do not know how it fits yet) or cut a plate from some evergreen sheet. You don't need to fill that gap because it belongs there. Hope this helps?
Cheers,
Jurjen
zokissima
Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 09, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 11:54 PM UTC
Very impressive work thus far.
Warsawpact
Västra Götaland, Sweden
Joined: September 25, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 03:16 AM UTC
Looking nice and crisp i must say.
Keep up the jolly good work
Keep up the jolly good work
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Friday, June 01, 2007 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hi Guys!
Thanks for your interest
I did not much the last days because of work. So here are two photos. I now see that detailphotos shows a lot of small errors. As you can see I need to sand the left corner of the box and I need to allign some small parts. Nothing serious though
Cheers!
Jurjen
Thanks for your interest
I did not much the last days because of work. So here are two photos. I now see that detailphotos shows a lot of small errors. As you can see I need to sand the left corner of the box and I need to allign some small parts. Nothing serious though
Cheers!
Jurjen
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 03:16 AM UTC
Yodiedo
I had some spare time today so I made some new photos. I have been busy with the rear deck and the splash guards and I replaced the front fenders for brass. I made the styrene ones too small Further worked on some small details but the rest is still very basic.
I hope you like it!
Jurjen
I had some spare time today so I made some new photos. I have been busy with the rear deck and the splash guards and I replaced the front fenders for brass. I made the styrene ones too small Further worked on some small details but the rest is still very basic.
I hope you like it!
Jurjen
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:15 AM UTC
Excellent job so far Jurjen !
I've one MT-LB variant on my workbench too and I'm waiting for the full set of wheels and tracks of Miniarm.
Keep on posting your pics.
Olivier
I've one MT-LB variant on my workbench too and I'm waiting for the full set of wheels and tracks of Miniarm.
Keep on posting your pics.
Olivier
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:21 AM UTC
Thanks Olivier! What variant are you planning to build? I had the Miniarm wheel and track set in my hands last saturday but those tracks are really labor intensive I think.
Friuls rock
Jurjen
Friuls rock
Jurjen
bison126
Correze, France
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 07:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Olivier! What variant are you planning to build? I had the Miniarm wheel and track set in my hands last saturday but those tracks are really labor intensive I think.
Friuls rock
Jurjen
My variant is a 6MA the one with the BTR-80 turret at the back of the roof. The kit is from SP Designs and generated some headaches to get the warped hull halves straight and ready to fit.
I chose the miniarm tracks because they are advertised as snap together tracks without preparation work ! I've assembled a couple of Friul set and while the result is very good looking, the preparation work and assembly is a pain !
Olivier
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 08:47 AM UTC
That's a cool conversion Olivier! When will we see some pics from your build?
The Miniarm Tracks I saw were all on the resin casting blocks. But make some pics when you have yours!
Jurjen
The Miniarm Tracks I saw were all on the resin casting blocks. But make some pics when you have yours!
Jurjen
Johnston_RCR
Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 01, 2006
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 08:50 AM UTC
Looks amazing Jurjen. More and more I think this should be my next purchase, as I see your build come together.
SK2
Florida, United States
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 05:21 PM UTC
Nice . I like . Here's what I did with 121 . Decided not to add the interior just the bullet proof glass. The box you scratched on the rear hull what is it for? Some of the ref pics I have seen have it and others don't. Do you have any ref pics with the missile being luanched. Most of the sites are in Russian and I can't find the translate button.
Thanks in advance sk2
Thanks in advance sk2