¹⁄35

Realistic Tarps!

Washing

Now lighten some of your 1:1 mix with some XF-60 Dark Yellow (Do not use white!), mix with water 1:9 and paint some the squares formed to show areas of more exposure (Photo 13). Remember – these exposed panels will be next to each other, not diagonally opposite. With a thin wash of straight XF-60 (again 1:9) gently highlight each of the RAISED folds (Photo 14).

Fitting

This is where using the sealant really comes into its own. You can now mould the tarp around the items as any times as you wish, and it will hold in place – if you are not happy, smooth it back out with finger pressure, and do it again. When happy, start at one side of the model and glue the tarp down with CA, ensuring folds, creases, depressions etc are formed as you go. You can now ‘rope’ the tarp down, pulling quite hard to create the creases formed by the rope (don’t worry the tarp is indestructible). Now rub all raised areas with fingertip to reveal detail. (Photo 15).

Painting and weathering

First you need to decide your environment and proceed accordingly. This project will be in Europe in autumn/winter so there will be dirt and water. First, highlights and shadows are put in (not many as the tarp is pretty realistic anyway). Raised contours and fold edges are given a wash with XF-64 Red Brown (Photo 16). The whole surface is then washed with a thin solution of Mig Dark earth. I then take pure water and ‘paint’ this wash downwards to make the pigment run into depressions and crevices (Photo 17) – don’t worry, you can use lots of water as the tarp really is waterproof. Once this has dried, I add Woodland Scenics water to a couple of areas to show rainwater collection (Photo 18). For a drier, dusty environment, the tarp was drybrushed with MMP Sand (I found the Mig to be too ‘sticky’), and the surface rubbed back with a fingertip to force the powder into the small depressions in the tissue. Then I added small splotches of Mig pigments (European dust, Dark mud), and rubbed them back with the paintbrush (don’t use a finger as it smears). (Photo 19).

Conclusion

The method is quick (start to finish in 90 min), and produces a totally realistic, and waterproof, tarpaulin. Because the treated surface of the tissue is so robust, its virtually untearable, and any weathering errors can be washed off and redone without soaking and destroying the tarp.

Polycell Squeeze and Seal (Kitchen and Bathroom) – availability outside the UK

This product is WATER based/miscible. When I wrote the article I had no idea that water based sealants were not common worldwide or I would have mentioned it. Having done some research I have now discovered the following: The reason this sealant is water based is because EU law states that by 2012 all such products must be water based (i.e have the solvents removed). It is therefore possible that in other countries, they may not produce a water based product because they do not have to.

Polycell is a UK company that is part of the ICI group. They do not do much exporting outside of the UK, and that is mostly to Europe. Your local ICI company may be able to tell you if they produce an equivalent. ICI did tell me that another global company Masterchem produce many similar products, and they may have one in your country.

If you do not have water based sealant in your country there are two options:

Buy this one online from a UK shop

Use a local solvent based sealant and dilute it with the correct solvent for that product.

As the solvent is only the medium to transfer the sealant to the tissue, once it dries the effect should be the same. You may have to ask about the correct solvent.

If you want to order online from the UK I have contacted DIY Tools UK and they do ship overseas. You can pay by cheque or card, but as every overseas order has a different weight, the extra shipping amount will have to be confirmed telephonically as they use a secure transaction system, and do not see you card details.

DIY Tools UK can be contacted here: DIY Tools UK Polycell did send me a data sheet which is five pages of waffle and lists only two components (the dangerous ones) which is NAPHTHA HYDRODESULF. HEAVY and CALCIUM CARBONATE. I hope this helps