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M4A3E8 'Thunderbolt'

Turret construction
Step 9 shows the sub-assemblies of the turret hatches and the main gun and mantlet. The hatches are straightforward although it might be advisable to paint the commander’s all round vision cupola (B29) before fitting the clear plastic vision blocks (C7).

I chose to use the turned aluminium barrel instead of the two-piece plastic barrel. There is no easy way to fit the muzzle brake (B30) to the aluminium barrel. I used CA glue and held it in place while it dried. I made the mistake of fitting the gun to the mantlet first and then gluing on the muzzle brake. This makes it hard to judge the angle of the muzzle brake to the mantlet so my advice is attach the muzzle brake to the gun first and then attach the gun to the mantlet.

I decided not to use the etched brass .30 calibre mount and instead used a mount from Academy’s US machine gun set. I also used the .30 calibre the .50 calibre and mount from this set instead of the kit options. Thunderbolt VII had an early style turret with the split hatch so I used this turret and not the one with the oval loader’s hatch. I left off the add on turret armour (D4) until the painting stage. Thunderbolt VII had a .50 calibre installed as its co axial machine gun so I cut the barrel from one in the very useful Academy set and glued it in place. The angle iron brackets on the back of the turret for holding the .50 calibre while travelling are very thick and can be sanded down to a more scale thickness.

Step 12
This shows the mating of the upper and lower hulls. I chose not to glue them together as I want to install a crew and a rudimentary interior later. The add on armour for the transmission is shown as one piece but my references show it as two separate pieces so I cut it in half and roughened up the edges to represent the torch-cut surface. The bolts (Q29) on this piece are tiny and I knew my pudgy fingers would drop them and they would be gobbled up by the carpet gremlins. I got around this by cut ting a piece of sprue with the bolts still attached away from the larger sprue. I used the sprue as a guide to glue each bolt in position and then trimmed the bolt off the sprue.

At this stage I gave the lower hull and suspension a coat of olive drab and the tires a coat of flat black. When dry I snap fitted the tires to the wheels and glued the suspension to the hull. As I was modelling my kit as being on a flat surface I made sure the suspension was level and then applied some CA glue to the rocker arms to lock them in place.

The magic tracks go together easily. Mine had slight knockout marks which were easily removed with a sanding stick. I assembled them in runs and then applied glue. After a few minutes I shaped them around the sprocket and idler. When dry I glued the runs together so that each track was made up of two pieces. I then painted these in a mixture of dark brown and steel.

I gave the upper hull and turret a coat of Tamiya olive drab and when this dried I gave the side armour where the Thunderbolt VII decal was to go a coat of Future (Klear) polish. Because the fender braces are now over the armour I had to trim the decal to fit. It went on easily over the Future and when dry I gave it another coat of Future. For the large star on the turret armour I used a stencil from Lion Roar instead of the Kit decal. When the Decals were set I gave the whole kit a few washes of Vallejo olive drab mixed with yellow ochre.

The photos I have show Thunderbolt VII as very mucky, so I’m afraid I went overboard with the pastels. The great thing about pastels is that if you don’t like the effect then you can just wash them off! The photos included with the review show the different finishes. I will do further work on weathering and stowage and other details such as the rear lights and vision blocks but this is where I left the kit for this review. (In some of the photos the upper hull may sit a little high, this is because it is not glued to the lower hull to facilitate installing a crew.)

in Conclusion
This was a great kit to build straight from the box and although I replaced the tools and turret MG’s, the only part that needs to be added to the kit to make an accurate Thunderbolt VII is the coaxial MG which can be had from the Academy set. While the suspension may look daunting, with a little patience and good references it can be put together quite easily. I recommend this kit highly and have plans to build several more!

My thanks to Dragon Models Ltd. For the sample!

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About the Author

About Pat McGrath (exer)
FROM: DUBLIN, IRELAND

I served three years in the Irish Army. Then I studied fine art for five years. Acted professionally since leaving college (Look me up on IMDB- Pat McGrathIII) Interested in Allied Armour 1942-45 and German SPGs. Other interests are figures and Sci Fi models


Comments

The Split hatch could revolve so the MG could be at the front too. I have a screen grab from a History Channel documentary that shows the .50 in this position which I can send you if you pm me your email. It also shows the fender braces over then armour. The other references I used were the photos of Thunderbolt VII on page 59 of Sherman at War (2) one of which is taken from the rear and shows the side armour having about half the depth of the fender.
SEP 15, 2006 - 02:17 PM
That coupola makes sense. Then the mount could be swiveled around so the gun sits on its resting bracket like the kit shows. How the heck did you stand in the hatch and fire it without leaning as far back as possible? I did the amor as the kit has it. The refferences are so hard to come by for this tank and I am not really a Sherman fan so I have never bought any literature on it for the only one I'll probably build. After 7 Thunderbolts I guess Abrams never really felt the need to take a bunch of pictures of it I was going to trim the armor away from the braces like the box art but the colorplate showed otherwise. I guess it will just stay as it is at this point. Even the typical refferences seemed to be at odds with each other I just gave up and started building for the Aces campaign as I have bigger fish to fry and need this done asap.
SEP 15, 2006 - 09:56 PM
Hi Pat, Thanks for a very useful and indepth review. Lovely build sir. Cheers Al
SEP 15, 2006 - 10:31 PM
To not start another T7 thread-I am now finishing the tracks which are the all steel version from the kit. How rusty should these suckas be? They are in base coat gunmetal now. I was thinking only a minor mottling overcoat with rust, a black sludge wash, then steel drybrushing the contact points. The tank is going to be in pretty fair condition. And thanks for the heads up Pat! Its a little late for me to alter anything, but the info you have is super helpful for anyone not started yet! I keep seing the mythbusters 'confirmed' armor 'plate' in my head now :-)
SEP 16, 2006 - 07:30 AM
Thanks for the review and the tips Pat.
SEP 16, 2006 - 05:32 PM
How much rust? Oh no I don't want the anti rust police after me. :-) It's up to you and what surface your tank is on. On a hard surface like a paved road in dry weather not much rust, in a wet field then sure rust and mud but how much is up to you.
SEP 17, 2006 - 05:24 PM
Pat, Thanks for your great work on the Thunderbolt. I just want to ask. What references can I source out aside from S. Zaloga's M4 Sherman at war (2) to get more pics of the thunderbolt? Also, are the added armor given the same color as the tank's body or are the weld cuts discoloration visible under the paint? Any take on that? Thanks again. Ed
SEP 30, 2006 - 03:29 AM
Hi Edmund There is some footage of Thunderbolt VII in some of the History Channelo videos - sorry I don't know which ones. I don't know of any other books containing different photos of Thunderbolt VII than the ones in Sherman at War (2) If you click on the my photos button at the bottom of this post there are some screen grabs of Thunderbolt I was sent. I can't see any discolouration on the welds. My impression is that when the armour was added on the whole tank got a new coat of paint. I think they would have paid special attention to the welds as they rust very fast if not protected by paint.
SEP 30, 2006 - 04:58 AM
Thanks Pat for a well written interesting log of your build as I dont know much about Shermans, I think that the final result is excellent. John
SEP 30, 2006 - 05:23 AM
Thank very much Pat. I'll look for those videos and will check your screen grabs. I already made one uparmored M4A3E8 modified from the DML 1/35 Korean War kit. I'll post it one of these days. regards. Edmund
SEP 30, 2006 - 08:02 AM